LP2 VR 2225 Build

[The Bedford Boys]

Im looking for the water can strap too. I've got the bottom bracket, I'll take some photos of it tomorrow so you know what you're looking for. I'll finish those vickers ammo box brackets for you next week hopefully.

[Dale Jordan]

Thanks Alex . Do the NZ carriers over their , have the same top block welded to the hull with the two 1/4 inch threaded holes as per my photo . Dale

[The Bedford Boys]

Yes, my LP2 is exactly the same arrangement as your picture

[Dale Jordan]

I'm after some tips on what goes in first before the motor is lifted in ? and any does and don't . Dale

[Darrin Wright]

A couple of pics depicting the bracket and strap.

[Dale Jordan]

Thanks Darrin and Alex for the photos . I just need to see what the top bracket looks like ? Here is a photo below of where i'm at before the motor goes in , with the clutch rod how do the bends look ? does it go behind the exhaust extensions can it be put in after the engine is in ? as it might need test fitting and re bending

[Andrew Rowe]

Hi Dale, put all your rods in including the accelerator rod. The clutch rod goes along side the starter motor by memory and definitely not around the exhaust. When fitting the engine just make sure a guy is easing the clutch and Acc. rods around the starter , and to the side ,as the engine is lowered. When the two rods are connected , make sure the bend is right so when you put your foot on the pedal it does not touch the starter motor terminal .Make sure the 2 bottom rubber hoses for your radiator can side on your water pumps easy, and push them hard back on the water pumps, length should be 110mm for ease of sliding onto rad. outlets. Top hoses should be about 85mm long. Leave gen. off so you do not stick the blades in the fan when lowering. You can leave the fan belts on though . Gap between your 2 flanges on the 8 point coupling should be 8mm approx. Make sure speedo cable is tucked out of the way. You can also leave the 2 exhaust pipes in the floor elbows, and with a guy either side when lowering, they can ease them up onto the 2 studs as the engine comes down to rest, so you are making sure they do not get jammed. Also do a trial fit with basic engine to make sure you are shimmed to height on the gearbox mount, and that the rubbers and bolts can slide easy in the steel flanges for ease of making this final connection. Do not force the 8 bolts to line up in the holes, they should just push in by hand if the 2 flanges are parallel and centred, that is why you should try with a pretty bare engine and even your rods removed for this exercise, before the final fitting and bolt up of engine .Cheers.