Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Keith Webb]

Great find, nice to see you have it home.

The footman loops were to secure a canvas bag which fitted over each windscreen so they could be fully open and not reflect the sun to enemy aircraft.

I have only one photo of these actually in use.

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

The footman loops were to secure a canvas bag which fitted over each windscreen so they could be fully open and not reflect the sun to enemy aircraft.

Thanks Keith! Would never have guessed that. Can you please post the photo for me. I'm sourcing a roll of suitable canvas for overall use, and will make a pair of those covers, if I can.

All Members Any photos showing details of the sunshine roof with canvas closed or open, would also be appreciated. Same with sun visor/s.

[Private_collector]

This is a cabin frame I bought yesterday, used with the steel framed doors which were canvas covered. The friend I got this from was possibly going to cut off the extra metal piece at front, where the doors fit onto the two pins, and use with the standard doors. Couldn't let that happen. So, with assistance from Rob P., and the measurements he sent me, I will need to make yet another jig, this time for funny looking door frames.

The sunshine cab roof and canvas door cabin will both be going onto my grey truck.

[David Dunlop]

Tony.

Congratulations with your Sunshine Cab Roof find.

Just curious if there were ever any supplementary Instructions or Parts Lists published covering this equipment and use in Australian Service? I am assuming if enough trucks were so equipped, there might be paperwork surviving somewhere that would be of great assistance for you.

David

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I will post a number of close up photos of the cab roof shortly. Does MLU have a thread or heading where people can post images of items they have which are known to be original? If not, maybe it would be a good idea. Then everyone can benefit from seeing how things SHOULD look. I'm absolutely sure everything on my cab roof is %100 original, so far as the hardware goes. There was still remains of canvas attached to the bar that goes to the front edge of the opening, so my photos might help someone else in the future. Just a thought!

Tony,

Great find and the MLU membership could indeed benefit from thread with pictures of an original Australian Cab 13 sunshine roof. If you wish I can split off your postings in a separate thread, or you can start your own. Just let me know what you want to do.

Regards,
Hanno
MLU moderator

[Private_collector]

That's a darn good question, David.

I don't recall seeing anything, but must say I had not been searching for anything. I'll browse the workshop manuals and parts lists. Surely they must rate a mention in there somewhere.

Does anyone know any written or photographic information directly related to these rooves?

[Private_collector]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

Tony,

Great find and the MLU membership could indeed benefit from thread with pictures of an original Australian Cab 13 sunshine roof. If you wish I can split off your postings in a separate thread, or you can start your own. Just let me know what you want to do.

Regards,
Hanno
MLU moderator

Hi Hanno,

Only just saw your post now.

Can you copy the related posts, leaving originals here?
Perhaps a new heading in the main menu, for individual threads of pieces / equipment known to be intact and original? That way anything people are looking for information about will be easily visible by scrolling down or keyword search if too far back. I don't know how much work is involved in doing this, so if problematic, I understand.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Hi Hanno,

Only just saw your post now.

Can you copy the related posts, leaving originals here?

Hi Tony, I just tried to copy your posts to a new thread, but it jumbles up the attachments. So, I have moved the relevant postings to a new thread, leaving a link to that thread here. If you don't like it this way, I will put all postings back to where I found them.

Perhaps a new heading in the main menu, for individual threads of pieces / equipment known to be intact and original? That way anything people are looking for information about will be easily visible by scrolling down or keyword search if too far back. I don't know how much work is involved in doing this, so if problematic, I understand

I could set up a new sub-forum with reference photos and material. That will take a little time, so I have started off with starting the thread with a "Reference photos" header. If MLU members feel a need for a reference material sub forum, I will set one up.

All for now,
Hanno

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

I will post a number of close up photos of the cab roof shortly. Does MLU have a thread or heading where people can post images of items they have which are known to be original? If not, maybe it would be a good idea. Then everyone can benefit from seeing how things SHOULD look. I'm absolutely sure everything on my cab roof is %100 original, so far as the hardware goes. There was still remains of canvas attached to the bar that goes to the front edge of the opening, so my photos might help someone else in the future. Just a thought!

FYI, I have moved Tony's photos of his sunshine cab roof to a separate thread: Reference photos: Australian Sunshine Cab Roof

HTH,
Hanno

[Private_collector]

No problem here Hanno. Thanks for doing it.

Thought it would be less than straight forward. Computer things usually are. In the 1980s they promised these damn things would make life easier.

Still, without em, I wouldn't know you folk!

[Arthur Morel]

Hello would you be able to get detail photos and dimensions for front and back mudguard canvas

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Started work on duplicating the complex system of wiring in front mud flaps/spats. Several issues were made apparent on the first, unsuccessful attempt.

I knew from the start that the wire I had at hand was too thin. This fact was confirmed with the first attempt of layup. Bear in mind I have only seen two photos of original ones, and both of those photos were rather vague and did not show the upper portion where it is attached to the mudguard.
Attachment 54443
First, I tried to make the whole wire section in one piece. Not a great idea. Too hard to work with, and the thin wire I used did not have the ability to retain it's shape to the extent required. I feel this problem would remain, even with a more suitable wire. The bent section on the right, is where the join is. The red stuff is heat shrink tubing, which certainly holds the sections together, BUT one piece of wire must be over/under the other, and when this happens, the shrink tubing actually holds the wire in any shape it gets bent to. I.E: if you mechanically bend forward or back, it will stay in that position. It can't bend sideways once the canvas is sewn over, but could still bend for'd & aft.
Attachment 54444
Second attempt. Still same wire. This time I thought about making every wire piece individually, and recessing the ends into a piece of metal, which would be where the flap is attached to the mudguard. This could work OK, with thicker wire. Holes would be pre-drilled in the metal, (In this case, aluminium) for the attaching bolts, upholsterer would then place brass eyelets through the canvas and aluminium, once all sewing complete. The wire would be much easier to work with during manufacture, and any poorly fashioned sections of wire could be discarded without losing the entire work piece. I would look into securing each wire section to the aluminium with a form of glue. Possibly hot melt glue, no higher than level of surrounding metal, so it would not be visible once canvas sewn on.

On my attempt today, you see I have tried to make each lower corner a curve instead of the right angle corner that it will ultimately be. If I have figured correctly, the photos I have seen show a bar of metal across the lower part of flap, just below the end of the wire pieces. This will be copied on final build.

If anyone has any other photos of the structure of these flaps, I would love to see them. Would especially like to see the naked wire piece/s, to see if I am even on the right track. This is one of those occasions where the visual aspects must look correct, even though the actual method of construction could be vastly different from original.

Attachment 54445 Attachment 54446
These are the two photos I have seen so far.

[Private_collector]

Sorry Arthur, the only photos I have are those already posted at the time. My dimensions could be considerably out from original specs. I'm happy to take more photos and neasurements of the pair I have made, so long as you are aware they are my interpretation only.

If anyone else can provide Arthur with more accurate specifications or additional photos, please post them. Thanks folks

[Arthur Morel]

Thank you yes understand now and any help will be of great help

[Private_collector]

After several disappointments, an inexpensive industrial sewing machine has finally fallen my way. Buying from Gumtree can be sooooo frustrating, when you email about an advertised item, only to get a 'sorry it's sold' email several days later. Worse when sellers don't even offer that courtesy!

I have been looking for a good, heavy-duty, sewing machine for some time now. The positive side of such delays is that knowledge increases with each potential purchase. For example, I found that although the machines im looking at are 'industrial', they are not automatically suited to doing heavy materials. In fact, the high speeds that industrial machines run at, make them quite unsuitable for thick material such as canvas, vinyl, and leathers. The High speed places undue stress on the needle, and friction can heat the needle to failure or bending. Heavy/thick materials often have feed problems with the standard teeth sets, or can jamb if pressure not correct.

This is the machine I bought. It cost me $250, and required another all-day sortie to go get it. Unlike home machines, industrial ones are driven by a much larger motor, usually located under the bench. Standard motors are designed to run really fast, and that speed needs to be greatly reduced. This can be done cheaply, by swapping the pulley on the motor for a smaller size. Smallest I found was 40mm. You can see the size difference, in photo below. Another drive belt is required with change in pulley size.

With speed significantly reduced, it's time to improve the ability to handle thick materials. Once again, this can be done easily and cheaply. Installing a heavy duty feed dog (set of teeth) and cover plate is quick and only cost $15 in parts! You can easily see the dramatic difference in size between STD and heavy duty sets. Lots of extra grip gained here!

I want to do a couple more mods, and then I will start using my new toy.

[Mike K]

That is a nice machine !

I bought a Consew with the walking foot . I spent ages battling with the touchy clutch and the horrid high speed . After many frustrating hours I was sort of getting semi skilled and I could do reasonable stuff. Trouble is, after you leave it for 6 months you have to re learn how to control it .

I ended up doing this mod . It now does around 2 stich per second , not 60 .
I made the small pullies on my lathe .

You can do quite a lot on a domestic machine . I bought 2 Janome's from the op shop and they are great for seat covers .

I live in a horse mad area, and there are horse rug repairers here , they all seem to use the old Singer 132 K6 . The K6 was a classic and they are still worth 2$k or more

BTW a VMVC member is a car upholsterer by trade and he gives lessons to any members willing to have a go Mike

[Private_collector]

Hi Mike,

I really wanted a walking foot machine, but they are out of my $$$ range for now. Maybe next year. I do like the speed reduction system you have used. I saw similar sets on a couple of the sewing machine retailer sites. I tried my machine before I changed the pulley, and i am amazed anyone could sew that fast!

My clutch control ability needs work too. Might consider changing to a digital step motor when I can afford it. With those you just dial up the RPM you want. Fairly cheap to buy, but not cheap enough for me just yet!

[motto]

I was shown an ex-government sewing machine one time belonging to a fellow in northern NSW. The machine was built for canvas work and was of very heavy construction. The intriguing part was that it was capable of doing two parallel rows of stitching at the same time. I didn't know prior to visiting this fellow that such a thing existed.

David

[Private_collector]

Yeah David, it's a two pronged needle that does that. Looks like a little tiny bicycle front forks! I don't know if the sewing machine HAS to be a special type to use them though. I would have liked to been able to do that for my canvas, in some areas such as joining pieces across rear canopy. I can make two passes for that effect, but I have no expectation they will be parallel.

[Private_collector]

I was talking a a lady yesterday, who has a long sewing history and once ran classes teaching novices to machine sew. I have been having trouble setting up my machine, and must have been doing something wrong with the path of upper thread. After asking me a number of questions, the most likely problem was identified, and I will try again this weekend. That lady also told me that a standard industrial sewer (not the kind that carries poo away ) can actually work with the twin needle spoken about in a previous post. It does sound tricky to prepare the machine, requiring two threads to be loaded up top, with seperate threads to each of the two needle points. Only one thread is used in the bobbin. Once I have a few successful hours experience, I may buy one of the twin needles and try what was described to me. Having two lines of stitching laid down at once would be a HUGE advantage. I fear it will be an extremely long time before I can sew two individual lines of stitches parallel. Perhaps never!

A good friend, and fellow MLU membr, Andy Cusworth, has give me a nice big piece of canvas, in the form of a green tarpaulin. Although I have not yet measured accurately, I hope there is enough canvas to make the roof, door skins, side curtains, and possibly even the rear window cover or/and front window covers (x2). It's all very exciting, I must say. Learning something new and making something tangible from that knowledge is always very pleasing.

To aid my canvas work, I would be most appreciative of any photos other members may be able to post, which show parts of canvas roof panel or canvas doors.

Thankyou!

[Mike K]

Tony

I have a WW2 Chev cab 13 side curtain , the Aust. pattern one, probably made by GMH ( the plans are on Keith's OLD CMP site somewhere ) . The stitching on it is horrible, it must have been sewed by a beginner , it is that bad its a wonder it didn't fall apart . I don't know if they had inspectors at the factory but he sure missed this one . I also have cab 12 Canadian side curtains and the stitching is rather ordinary , but not as bad as the Aust. one . On the other hand , I have a WW2 Aust. 108 radio set cover and it is very nicely made, perfect stitches . Mike

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Tony

Reading your posting with great interest.

I learned how to sew on my grandmother's treadle Singer machine about 60 years ago.

Recently acquired a Singer Industrial (331K4) which will need to be slowed down with a jack shaft pulley arrangement.

I keep looking for a twin needle model but nothing yet I can afford.

From what I have seen a double needle can be used for single needle stiching but NOT the reverse. It seems that all double needle models have twin bobbin and twin tensioners for the tread.....

Let us know when you get good enough that the wife will let you do curtains for the kitchen window.

Cheers

[Andy Cusworth]

Hi Tony,

the machine looks good assembled !

In regards to stitching straight lines, initially can you just draw chalk lines and follow them ? also, im guessing someone could stand the other side and assist with keeping the line until you are proficient.

lastly, my Mother in Law is a seamstress of 40yrs and is coming over in December so I could bring her up if you wanted to help set up for canvas ...... honestly its not a ploy to get rid of the MIL

[Private_collector]

Hey there Andy,

I want to do three rows on the rear canopy. That will be the most difficult part. Mrs B will help with the manoeuvring of all that canvas, as it goes past the sewing point.

All the other parts shouldn't be too difficult (how's that for naive), as there will not be two rows required.

The three rows will be, one row stitched with both pieces facing inwards, then one stitch each side of the one just done, after the canvas has been opened facing outwards. So long as I follow the original stitch line, either side, that SHOULD guide me. Optomism Bourne from ignorance possibly.

I couldn't resist trying the machine again yesterday, putting into effect the pointers and advice I had been given. Although I still don't have the thread feed pressures correct, I did manage to get some sound sewing. While adding tension to the upper thread, I found a very fine line between crappy stitching and broken thread. The latter being most common result. Not too worried about that, because once I get the heavier thread, that problem should disappear.

Incidentally, I found yesterday that the heavy duty needles I have bought do NOT fit the machine. They are thicker where they insert into the area that locks them into place. It's an easy fix, but requires a replacement Needle Bar to fit them. I have ordered one, for $10, and it will be arriving next week. Then I will have to figure out how to change it over. That could be 'fun'. The manual is somewhat lacking in detail, and doesn't show that job at all. Can't be harder than rebuilding a transfer case, so I will learn as I do it.

[Mike K]

There is a excellent industrial sewing forum, I used to use it regularly , lots of decent advice from people who make stuff like boat covers bimini ? I think they call them . Will have a look for it .

Ok this is it

http://www.upholster.com/upholstery-forum/

[Private_collector]

Mike,

That is a BRILLIANT website!

I am very grateful that you have brought it to my/our attention.

Will certainly spend considerable time perusing it!

[Private_collector]

Wouldn't you know it, delays hit again.

After discovering that the needle bar on my sewing machine wouldn't take the thicker needles I intend to use, I sourced and ordered a replacement part to suit, at little expense ($10, including postage). When the new needle bar arrived, I started dismantling the machine for the changeover. Before going too far with pulling things apart I thought I should actually try inserting one of my thicker shank needles into the bar. It didn't fit! I had been sent the wrong size by mistake. Grrrrrr. It was exactly the same as the one I wanted to replace. A quick phone call to the distributor cleared up the issue, and the replacement for the replacement, is now on it's way. I hope!

I bought this roll of heavy, UV treated thread to use with sewing my canvas. Curiosity lead me to cut off a length, wrap the ends around my hands, and see how much strain it would take to break the thread. The good news is that I couldn't break it at all. The bad news is, I could have cut off a finger! Wow, it is superbly strong thread. Would be nice to use it some day, if I finally get everything together. The 'wrong' needle bar is in the photo too, as is what will be my first piece of sewing......but only after I do lots of practice sewing.

I dropped in at the local paint shop a week ago, to get a few consumables. I wanted to be ready to paint a set of 16" wheels once they are sandblasted. While talking with the proprietor, I made a remark that it would be good if I could get my chosen color of camouflage paint in pre packed spray cans. The lady said she didn't see any reason why it wouldn't be available, and proceeded to phone Protec to enquire.

And here is the result. It has always been available, I just didn't consider it worth asking about in the past. Now that i am likely to need to spray some small bits and pieces, I will keep a couple of cans in store. I haven't tried it from the can yet, so I don't know how it sprays, nor do I know how the drying time will be affected without the addition of the 15% (by volume, not weight) hardener I always put in. I do hope it sprays nicely. Nothing worse than a spray pack that spits and dribbles paint all over the place.

I'm driving down to Bandiana next Wednesday morning, to deliver my Sons car. Should arrive Thursday PM, and will be staying at Albury until I fly home on Sunday. I have emailed the folks that take bookings for visits to the military museum at Bandiana, and would like to take a look this time, after missing out when we were there around ANZAC Day.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony,

Just looked at APAS 0165/1 online. Interesting reading.

Camouflage Green is specified as equivalent to US Federal Standard 595A colour 34088. This is the current Australian Army colour so it will be slightly different to the Khaki Green No.3 that Protec has previously made available.

It is the same colour paint that I have obtained from Wattyl and Croda over the years and now in the process of changing over to a closer late WW2 colour.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Just an aside to my previous post:

While following Gina Vampire's excellent thread on WW2 paint I can really appreciate how hard it is to track paint colour changes of 70+ years ago.

Even in modern times there seems to be little standardization of terms for paint.

Case in point: in the 2005 issued APAS 0006/2, as shown on an old can of paint that I have initially used on my CMP ford, it specifies "Low Gloss" however the manufacturer, Wattyl, calls it "Semi Gloss". That is probably a more accurate description as APAS 0006/1 is "Flat", And APAS 0006/3 is "Full Gloss" so the assumption is APAS 0006/2 is in between.

APAS 0006 refers to the 3 gloss levels but only refers to the colour as US FS 595B 34088 which is the matt chip. FS 14088 would be the gloss chip and 24008 would be the Semi gloss chip.

To further add confusion some manufacturers call low gloss paint flat or matte.

Even the names can be confusing as Camouflage Green is also referred to Olive Drab in the 2009 issued APAS 0165 Which is FS 595B 34008.

Anyway as a mater of interest I have attached a photo for comparison only of a part painted in Wattyl Semi Gloss Olive Drab, (the same colour/different gloss as the Protec aerosol) and a paint chip of the paint I had mixed to a good sample part colour which I hope is a lot closer to the late war KG J thanks to Gina's great thread.

I have bitten the bullet and will be repainting the truck as I go in that colour.

[motto]

If that is a true representation of the colour you are using Jacques it is pretty close to what I am using on my WW2 US vehicles and it looks right to me.
The paint I started with came from the Ordnance Factory Maribyrnong when it closed down and it is a Berger product identified as Transformer Olive Drab. It is quite old and takes some stirring and straining but it works ok though it's a bit slow drying to full hardness.
I also have a quantity of it now that was colour matched more recently and it's very good to use. Being flat it marks fairly easy but that's how it was.
At least it looks authentic, unlike some vehicles you see that have received a coat of paint that would be more suitable for a garden gnome.

David

[Jacques Reed]

Hi David,

Transformer Olive Drab- Now that's another interesting name for a colour. If the can was from the eighties it may have been used to paint kids' toys!

All joking aside, the current Australian Army Olive Drab, US Federal Standards 595B colour 34088, is close numerically to WW2 US Olive Drab which is colour 34087.

I checked my 1984 edition of FS 595a which is a reference book of all colours used by the US government at that time. Surprisingly colour chip 34088 was not listed then.

From FS 595a: "The last three digits indicate the approximate order of increasing (diffuse) reflectance and are assigned non-consecutively to provide numbers between for future use."
Basically as the last three digits of the chips gets higher the colour gets lighter so today's Australian FS 34088 Olive Drab would be lighter (more reflectance) than WW2 US Olive Drab FS 34087.

It doesn't answer any questions about Australian WW2 Khaki Green but it may be of interest to members for the present day comparisons.

Cheers,