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#1
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So Rick, for the molassess bath, a thorough degrease is in order prior to immersion into the bath for best results?
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#2
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If you remove any grease beforehand the molasses will work better. At least that has been my experience. I use a 6:1 ratio of water to molasses and if left for about 10 days it gives the excellent results achieved by Lynx42 above. A high pressure water-blaster (mine is 2000psi) is best for cleaning the black gunk off afterwards. However with my gearbox cogs there is still an unacceptable amount of residue that I now need to remove by some other method.
It is surprising how, sometimes the de-rusted steel does not start rusting again immediately after the molasses treatment, while other times it gets an orange "rust bloom" almost straight away. I suppose it might depend on the humidity of the air. I sometimes use a blow-torch afterwards to speed up the drying process and avoid further rusting. Its amazing to me that the molasses method is not more popular, as it does an excellent job, is very cheap, easy, biodegradable, non-toxic and (if you are in a rural setting) easy to dispose of afterwards. As far as I can see there is no down-side to molasses, as long as you plan ahead and are not in a hurry. |
#3
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Regards Rick.
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1916 Albion A10 1942 White Scoutcar 1940 Chev Staff Car 1940 F30S Cab11 1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai" 1941 F60L Cab12 1943 Ford Lynx 1942 Bren Gun Carrier VR no.2250 Humber FV1601A Saracen Mk1(?) 25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266 25pdr. Australian Short No.185 (?) KVE Member. Last edited by lynx42; 09-10-15 at 10:10. |
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