Our LRDG Chev

[Andrew H.]

A quick update: We are still having big trouble removing our 70-year-old tyres from the 16-inch split rims. Yesterday we spent a whole day trying unsuccessfully to remove another one. First we pumped the tyre up and separated the two split rims, then we tried to detach the bead with a crow-bar and sliding weight, but no luck. Then we anchored one rim to an RSJ shed pole and pulled the other rim with a tractor, but all that did was to dig two holes in the ground and break the chain. Then we repeated that process using the tractor and a ten-tonne hydraulic digger, but with exactly the same result –two fresh wheel holes and another broken chain! With the digger, the pull was so strong that it actually bent the rim where the shackle was attached through the stud hole (will have to be hammered out later). Then we cut out a section of the tyre with a 150mm angle grinder, but could not get close enough to the bead. Then in desperation we used a blow-torch and made a small fire concentrated at the bead, with bursts of oxygen from the torch to cut through the wire in the bead. But amazingly the bead still did not break, and the super-hot oxy-acetylene gas accidentally ricocheted off the rubber and cut two small holes right through the rim (will have to be welded up later). Strangely the rubber did not want to burn and went out as soon as the torch was removed! So after a whole days work we still had the tyre stubbornly attached to the rim. Any of you guys got any ideas?

[hrpearce]

Andrew I had one old heavy tyre that my bead breaker couldn't handle. I cut two lines from bead to bead using the back blade of a mattock then cut as close to the rim as possible to remove a section of tyre. I was then able to use the 4" angle grinder to cut most of the wire. I cut at an angle to the rim to get in as close as possible, I finished the cut with a cold chisel and 12 Lb. hammer.

[motto (RIP)]

I have found that old hardened tyres are relatively easy to cut through with a bow saw, it's like sawing wood.
One of the problem tyres I encountered was a run-flat with sidewalls about 1-1/2" thick. It was on a Dodge Weapons Carrier and would not hold air. I travelled a thousand miles on it before replacing it.
The only way to remove it was to cut it off. First off I cut a wedge shaped piece out of it with two cuts starting about 3" apart and coming together near the bead.
Opposite that I removed another wedge but didn't bring the cuts together, I chewed the fabric and rubber out between them with an electric drill. This left a gap that I used to chisel through the wires.
Lastly I hooked chains on either side of the cut out and pulled the tyre open which I could do because of the wedge section removed earlier.
The whole operation didn't take long and wasn't very strenuous.
One of the wedge sections removed was laying around for years as a curiosity. It's probably still around somewhere.

David

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by motto

I have found that old hardened tyres are relatively easy to cut through with a bow saw, it's like sawing wood.
...
The only way to remove it was to cut it off. First off I cut a wedge shaped piece out of it with two cuts starting about 3" apart and coming together near the bead.
...
Lastly I hooked chains on either side of the cut out and pulled the tyre open which I could do because of the wedge section removed earlier.
...

David

This is what I was about to suggest. Great minds think alike, but fools seldom differ.

[Andrew H.]

Thanks for that. So cutting the bead is absolutely essential - we will focus on that next time. Incidentally, our tyres are about 1.5 inches thick, but I don't think they are "run flat" because there is no "RF" written on the tyre.

[leo tomaiolo]

i like to use a sawzall to cut around the tire and let the rim drop out. if you cut it out close to the rim it's easier to cut the cable in the tire. i use a air tool (die grinder) with a 2" cut off wheel to get in close to the cable but not to damage the rim. plus with the tire cut of in this way you would have good access to the split between the rims. your truck looks great. can't till i'm able to start mocking up the body on my ford.

[Lynn Eades]

Andrew, Run flats usually have a collapsable (jeep is not) steel ring in them. They can rust to the rim as well.
R.H. in Hamilton had some halftrack runflats that were solid all the way through with a soft red rubber inside the tyre (permanent in the tyre, non inflateable)
Run flats were identified by type RF1, RF2, RF3. I cannot recall the differences.

Can you try setting the wheel up on solid ground,(concrete?) park the tractor on one side and then drive the digger onto the otherside as close as you can get to the rim. You will probably have to relocate a few times.
Be careful!

[Andrew H.]

Thanks Lynn,
Yes that will be our next move, in a few days time.

[Grant Bowker]

Another tool sometimes used for the rubber cuts.... chainsaw. I'm basically lazy so I then use the angle grinder for the rubber and wire left in the bead area rather than a cold chisel. Using a thin cut-off wheel can reduce but not eliminate the smell of overheated rubber. With a little care you can avoid any nicks in the rim.

[motto (RIP)]

One and a half inches thick in the walls and extremely heavy, sounds like runflat to me whether marked RF or not.
I would also be curious to know where they were made and if they were intended for American or British wheels. If they are American it would go some way to explaining why they are so difficult to remove.

David

[Andrew H.]

We bought the wheels from a local collector here. He has a very large collection of ex WWII military vehicles, so we don't know which one they came off.