Vc 2047 lp2

[colin jones]

Hi Bob, it wouldn't think you need any more than 20-30 ton to press out CMP tanks. To get an even pressing it all relies on the top press die and by that I mean getting an even distribution of power to all paints to stop deflection. I assume you are using a garage press style which is a single point of power. You could simply use very thick steel or thinner and fabricate with lots of bracing (Gussets) That's the method I used. The base of my top one is 10mm thick and have put a number of triangle gussets around. I never got any deflection at all and I was pressing 16g If you have access to a press brake, that would be even better and mine is only a 40tonner.
I never put baffles in my tanks as they are well supported in a carrier unlike a truck hanging on the side.
I mig welded the ends in doing vertical downs where possible but yours being thinner would probably be better to Tig them.
I tested mine with an air fitting in the fuel pickup point with about 60psi and did the old soapy water which shows up the smallest of leaks. You could use some sealant as well.
Good luck and post photos.
Colin.

[Euan McDonald]

Hi Colin, great to see you over the cruise and getting on with shed time.
I went down the track of making lamp body's as well and had a die machined then took it to a metal spinner and had s few spun. I contemplate having them done in stainless as well. Matt is also making some and came up with a brass fitting from Bunnings for the rear.
Keep up the good work

[Wayne Hingley]

Very nice workmanship Colin! You have talent and its great to see you taking on these challenges. Bob is correct... you are an inspiration. Keep it up.

[Bob Carriere]

Looking back at the stamping die you made..... should be able to replicate.

The CMP fuel tank is very light material and may be easier to form...... baffles would be necessary. Based on the many rusted tanks we have worked on the baffles are installed first after the outside skin has been pinched and welded shut.... baffles are then inserted and welded by a long arm spot welder. The reserve baffle is sealed tight on all 3 sides using a rolling wheel welder simialr to what they weld the end caps with. Can't afford all the specialized machinery but our time is free and the challenge worthwhile. We may just spot weld some baffles and then weld the end plugs ...... the soapy test is certaily worthwhile but would be safer with a liquid sealer for the finish process.

May try some scaled down smaller pressing over the Winter months for practical experience....... maybe tackle the small indent for the bottom drain plugs.

Cheers

Cheers

[Robert Bergeron]

Great work !

An inspiration.

[colin jones]

Morning and Happy New Year to everyone.
I'm attempting to make some No11- 19 Radio mounts which have quite a few pressings and hole recesses but! I just started with a couple of 16mm thick plates and squared them up to the same size which just makes them easy to line up. Marked exactly where the side pressings are and milled out the unwanted material to a depth of 3mm then repeated the opposite side with a match.

[colin jones]

I gave both pieces a clean up with a flap disc in my 5" grinder and file then did a test piece and it did turn out really nice. I just need to cut my pieces to shape and nd then make some more parts possibly today.
Colin.