42 Pilot Model HUP Project

Phil Waterman · #1 25-01-16, 01:32

Hi

Having just read the link on the new standards, sounds like a move to get a lot if not all cars over 10 years old off the road, but that's not the topic of this thread.

The point is getting your vehicle past with least hassle, you point out they have nothing to measure your HUP against. But you do have bench mark to measure the quality and in depth nature of your restoration, your photos and the narrative you have posted on MLU. While you are wise to get your vehicle registered prior to the rule changes, I would not be too afraid of the standards.

Keep up the good work and the careful documentation of the restoration process.

Cheers Phil

RHClarke · #2 13-02-16, 18:41

The inside of the Pilot Model hub includes a grease cup that is designed to prevent grease and other contaminants from spotting or staining the brake mechanism that is covered by the hub. This cup employs a thin gasket to assist it in carrying out its function.

When I removed the cups (or rings if you prefer) the OEM gasket were destroyed having been either glued down or having adhered to the two mating surfaces over its several decades of use. This necessitated making new gaskets. Fortunately, Bob had a roll of paper that he had acquired a few years back that had a similar texture to the original gasket, but also had a finished inside coating. He explained that it was a waterproof membrane and that the paper was used to wrap bundles of map making paper. In any case, it was the perfect replacement for the gaskets.

The cups provided the template for cutting and the bolt holes were a perfect match for the large hole punch that we have at the barn. Two gaskets were knocked out in quick time.
pm gaskets.jpg pm both.jpg

After coating both sides with silicon gel, the gaskets were laid inside the hubs with the cups and the bolts were re-installed.
pm ring cu.jpg

One had to be careful to make sure that the splines on the bolts meshed with the cut outs inside the bolt holes and that all of the bolts threads were similar in direction - as these hubs are side dependant. After a few gentle taps with the hammer and a wooden block, most of the bolts seated nicely. The heads of the bolts secured the cups and gaskets nicely.
pm instal.jpg

The hubs were then turned over and the spacers installed. I used the wheel nuts to press the spacers into place and this also served to seat those bolts that didn't seat previously.
pm spacers.jpg

Next project: the other two hubs.

RHClarke · #3 24-05-16, 01:22

I got the hubs and brake shoes back from the brake shop. They did a great job of milling down the hubs and in putting new material on the brake shoes. They didn't have to match the linings to the hubs as the fit was great from the start.

This past weekend was nice and warm - perfect for leisurely activities such as sandblasting and painting. Up for treatment were the frame, transmission, and transfer case. The two axles will be done at a later date.

Photos:
1 - Sandblasting pit - bare frame
2 - Frame - painted
3 - Tranny
4 - Transfer case

RHClarke · #4 29-05-16, 22:11

The temperature this morning was absolutely wonderful. Warm and dry enough to sandblast away years of paint and road dirt from the Pilot Model axles. It took two pots (four bags of grit) to do both axles. It helped that they were given a good going over with the wire brush and then washed with gasoline before sandblasting.

We noted with some amusement that the CMP metal seems to turn a shade of Airforce blue when sandblasted. I noted that the colour (rust red) the metal turns later must be from embarrassment...

After the initial blasting, care was taken to search out grease deposits that only seem to get revealed after blasting. Once scrubbed and washed, the whole axle gets a phosphorus treatment. Then comes the paint - or bug attractant, as we at the barn call it.

I have had great success with Tremclad rust paint over the years, and despite the ever increasing price of the stuff, I will continue to use it. My choice of finish for the first coat is gloss black. Given time and temperature, it binds with the exposed metal nicely, and if left outside to cure overnight, it will repel raindrops without running. It is also easy to clean before adding the green paint.

This ends the frame and drivetrain portion of this project - next step is reassembly, followed by a lot of welding on the body and roof. The engine can wait until later on.

RHClarke · #5 25-08-17, 01:29

You can count the number of rain free days this "summer" at the Hammond Barn on one hand. The weather has a heavy influence on productivity anywhere, but Ottawa seems to embrace the extreme: too hot/wet in summer, too cold/wet in winter, too wet in the springtime, leaving only autumn as the only somewhat dry/cool/reduced bug period where work really gets done. That said, this past week has been somewhat autumn-like with a good breeze blowing. Perfect Pilot Model work weather. Finally!

This stage of the refurbishing project has transitioned into the rebuild stage. The rear floor component of the truck is too far gone to restore. The only saveable piece is the curved section at the rear. So, the rear portion was removed from the front. This involved removing eight floor screws that secured the driver/pax station floor to the rear portion cross member. Then the frame had to be cut on both sides, freeing up the components.

I knew that the underside had lots of salt damage and had to cut some of the hat channel out for replacement. Once the hat channel was opened, it was evident that there was more damage on the inside of the channel than what we could see from the outside. Bob's learned opinion was that it would be impossible to weld new sections in. Reluctantly, I concurred and decided that the whole rear component (less the rear curved supporting channel) had to be replaced.

Photos:
1- Floor components joined
2- Side panels removed
3- Front nose - in surprisingly good shape!
4- Post surgery

Alex van de Wetering · #6 25-08-17, 22:51

Rob,

Excellent to see you're back to work on the Pilot HUP!
Pity there is so much rust damage to the underside...but good to hear you guys decided to fix this properly.

Alex

RHClarke · #7 28-08-17, 00:18

I got some time today to further disassemble the Pilot Model cab front. There were three floor plates to remove and none of the screws/nuts wanted to turn out. One cold chisel and a good-sized hammer convinced them to part company. I was pleasantly pleased to see that the plates and the frame that support them were in pretty good condition. Rust for sure, but nothing compared to the rear of the floor. I will get the frame sandblasted sometime in the future.

Just for fun, I pulled the Pilot Model fuel tanks out to determine their condition. As expected, the driver side fuel tank had a fairly corroded bottom end. After a quick exterior clean up (wire brush, scraper), it was time to check the interior. There was a bit of rust - see last photo.

Photos:
1- The plates
2- The frame
3- Orange fog