Chevrolet C8 1940 Cab 11 restoration, The Netherlands

Mike K · #1 08-02-16, 01:38

Hi

My cab 11 C8 had faded KG3 patches , it was overall in that colour , no camo I could find .

The Cab 12 C8 I bought years ago was painted a blackish disruptive colour over green - the black was brush applied . It was all very faded and difficult to see .

Bob Carriere · #2 08-02-16, 05:24

In one of the military magazine a while back one of the Ordenance paint supplier had pictures fo the same Dodge WC 56 taken at the same angle during different time of the day and the shades of Od was all different.

I don't know how we can address this.... than different computer screen set up, etc. heck even the eyes of different people will see shades differently.

My wife, who sloves photography, does most of her wildlife photos during the golden hours........ 2 to 3 hours after sun rise and 2 to 3 hours before sunset... the rest of the time the contrast is too harsh and light colors blown out.

Have you considered using "Pink" as used on the Land Rover in North Africa????

Kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Alex van de Wetering · #3 08-02-16, 11:45

Mike,

My C8 has some darker blueish green remains on the outside of the windscreen frame and cab rear wall. It could be Dark Green G4 camo, or Scc15...or even a post-war civvy colour.....so difficult to determine!

Quote:

Have you considered using "Pink" as used on the Land Rover in North Africa????

hmmm......Yes, maybe I am acting a bit silly. I have already made up my mind that the base of my C8 will be Khaki Green with Scc2 on the outside surfaces.....but I just want to try and investigate any paint remains, before I strip the parts and the info will be lost forever.

thanks for your comments, guys.

Alex

motto (RIP) · #4 08-02-16, 18:24

Just a comment on the shocker link story.
The swaged/enclosed ball type end as shown in Phil's HUP photos were used on numerous later production trucks including DUKW, CCKW, Studebaker US6 and Dodge WCs to name a few.
The length of the rod varied but the ball end with its integral tapered and threaded mounting pin was pretty much standard, I've seen them with varying amounts of thread but they will interchange. The ball ends can be pressed out of the eye end and a replacement pressed in if available.
I acquired a quantity of NOS US6 links some years ago and pressed the ball ends out of quite a number for use on other vehicle types. Or original links can be cut and welded to make them the desired length without pressing out the ball ends.

David

Alex van de Wetering · #5 10-03-16, 00:23

This some work from a while ago...the pedals.

I fitted new bushings (Filling station) to the cast base and fitted a new bushing to the clutch pedal. I am really happy how the new bushings in the casting worked out, but I am still not very happy with the clutch pedal.....there is just too much play for my liking.......either the bushing itself has too much play with the shaft, or the shaft is not round. I have been thinking about this for months now, but I think I will disassemble the shaft and clutch pedal...have the shaft slightly machined and have a new matching bushing made.

Two questions.....
I believe originally the pedals weren't fitted with a rubber boot, but someone suggested I might need them for the Dutch licence. Any idea which ones would fit the cab 11 pedals? I have ordered a set of rubber boots, but they are too big (even though the shape seems the same).

The return spring for the brake pedal; On my C8, one end fits in a nice hole in the front-most cross member, the other end was fitted to the pedal mechanism...in a hole in a clevis pin. (picture attached hopefully shows what I mean) I wonder if this was the original setup as it seems the clevis pin can still move from side to side a little, with a cotter pin fitted to one end and the end of the spring to the other. I am not sure if this setup is the same for a C15, or if it's specific to the C8???

Alex

Bob Carriere · #6 10-03-16, 00:52

Hi Alex

Rubber boots and comfort were not part of the cab 11/12 repertoire.

My cab 11 nor any of the cab 12 had any rubber boots. You probably can fabricate something out of neoprene gasket material to seal around the pedal shaft. I would make it in two pieces and mount them from behind the floor plate with small no 6 screws flat heads inside a washer and nut on the back side. Two U shape pieces will be easier to install than forcing/stetching a one piece of rubber. Make sure the rubber has enough clearance so as not to drag on the pedal shaft. So far this is not a requirement in Ontario.

Now I did the same thing with the bushings on mine but got opposite results. My clutch pedal is dragging and will have to be removed and polished ever so lightly with a fine grit sand paper wrapped around a wooden dowel until it is a bit looser.

On the spring clevis thing.....

I checked on my early pictures......
the clevis pin for the brakes has the spring near the head of the clevis pin and in the centre most position near the clutch clevis. Heads of the brake clevis and head of the clutch clevis should both be on the inside near one another to minimize chances of the cotter pins getting hung up on one another.

Now is the time to do it...... removing the pedal cluster AFTER the sheet metal is on is a nightmare.... which is what I am about to do.......it is just that the front axle is very much in the way.

On your pedal cluster is it possible that the shaft is now worn out of round and would need machining and an oversize brass bushing custom made..... or can you live with the looseness as long as the clutch engages fully.

Nice job by the way.

Cheers

Bob Carriere · #7 10-03-16, 01:07

Thanks Alex

After comparing your pictures and mine I discovered that I have mounted my pedal bracket to the frame backwards...... you have your grease fitting in front for easy access..... I installed mine with the grease fitting pointing to the rear making it impossible to grease........

Now I am sure I have to remove it!!!

Cheers