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#1
03-03-16, 17:58
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On mine, every valve that was stuck was directly under the spark plug hole.
Again, I think that for any amount of work an a carrier engine, removing the dog house will actually save time. You could build a stool with four legs that sorround the transmission and actually sit down to work as opposed to crouching, twisting like a controtionist, and sticking your head in the dark space. If nothing else, I suspect the quality of work will be better. 
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#2
03-03-16, 22:41
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It looks like the valve under the plug hole is the exhaust valve so it makes sense that that valve is more likely to stick.
Have you had it apart since? If so, did you find the valve springs weak or varnish build-up on the stems? And after taking another look, Lynn's right. Those heads are not coming off without removing that angle iron rail, so my thought of simply pulling heads and intake off to do a quick fix isn't going to fly. And from what I have heard and read, doing valve work on this engine isn't that simple anyway. Malcolm Last edited by Malcolm Towrie; 03-03-16 at 22:49.
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#3
03-03-16, 23:34
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The valve stems bend so easily on these engines... You will find that they run ok, but the valves won't seat tight into the block.
__________________
is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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#4
04-03-16, 02:34
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Update: tapping on the valves with a brass punch on the worst cylinders (with the pistons at TDC firing) had no effect. I measured the height from the head of each valve to the spark plug seat with dial calipers before and after and there was no change. And no change in compression pressure. Oh well, it was worth a try.
It's unusual to bend valves on a engine especially as the usual causes like over-revving or cam timing slipping aren't applicable on a flatty. Why are these engines prone to it? Malcolm
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#5
04-03-16, 02:43
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A valve job in the original form is a big deal. You grind the valve and the seats,, then you grind the stem of the valve to get the right clearance. You can install adjustable valve lifters (I think they originally come from one of the old 8N Ford tractors but don't quote me on that). That will make it a lot easier to do the adjustment, but it requires removal of the cam I think, which is not something you are going to do in-frame.
Can't say I have ever had a problem with bent valve stems on a Ford.
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#6
04-03-16, 03:22
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Quote:
So how do shops grind the valves with their mushroom tips? The seat grinders I have seen chuck the valve stem. And grinding seats in the block must require a tool that locates in the guide bore? Sounds specialized. And nasty if you spread grinding debris around the valley. Malcolm
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#7
04-03-16, 04:42
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Grinding seats is not that messy. Lots of rags in areas you want to protect. Some of the older manuals will show a cutter to reface the seats, but for the last 70 years or so they are done with specially designed grinding stones. Seems like we rarely to never need them for the modern engines, since the computer keeps everything so clean and the fuel mixture just right. I bought a complete valve grind set-up because I have more old engines than new ones.
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