2016 at the Hammond Barn

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

Good to hear that you at least have some boxes as a base. Even cadavers are better than nothing, right?

There are a bunch of tutorials on making a DIY sheet metal brakes on youtube....I was just watching a few vids recently with a vision of maybe making a small sheet metal brake myself. Maybe something to think about for the barn as well? ....even though 6 foot is quite long.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOYczH-yiWI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzc3NvkaC5Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3B9kJIfx2A

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

We acquired 2 brakes last year....one is 30 inches straight bar across the other more useful is a 36 inch pan box brake with multi fingers......both work well up to 16 gauge....... the cargo box 2B1 is a lot of 16 guage with some heavier pieces at 14.

I would be concerned making my own brake for 12 to 14 gauge sheet metal.

We have a smaller Chinese 40 in. shear-roller-vertical brake......good for 18 gauge at the most.....although we have cheated with 16 guage but preheated the sheet metal for a clean 90 degree bend.

On a 2B1 cargo box most of the pieces are less than 48 inches...... except the head board piece and the hat shaped section underneath that run the full width.

The tail gate can be done in two sections hidding the but joint under the large strap hinges.

So I have concluded that 72 inches at 12 gauge would do me just fine...... buit need to find the money to buy it.....or pay the local fabricator.

Will carefully watch the utube video next.

Cheers

[George McKenzie]

I made a tail gate for a box on a CMP 13 .Turned out like original Just takes time

[Bob Carriere]

Been madly involved with running the brand new wiring harness Phil W. did for me a few years back.

Did not realize how much of a nightmare it cvan be to snake the wires in pkace after the cab is almost all assembled...... but I am getting there.

Phil the harness is a delight to work with.... absolutely perfect.....THANKS YOU!!

Noticed in the process that my cab 11, which never went overseas, was never retro fitted with the front fenders marker lights nor the rear axle light..... that is now taken care of.... all my lights front and rear are working.... will be tackling the instrument cluster next...... what takes time is the hour of limbering yoga exercise before crawling under, over, etc.....

Would some one look at the wiring diagram in the MB-C2 and see if I am wrong.... the dotted lines for the second headlights ( yes mine has two) it seems that the dash instrument "Brigth Light" is shown as being wired ON when the low beam are actuated.....???

I have been using this diagram as my road map....... Phil made the wiring harness with EXACTLY the same color code as the manual...... it sure simplifies the process.....

I now have to factor in the new style ignition coil and the alternator...will keep the voltage regulator in place as a dummy so need to modify the diagram slightly. Also installing signal lights, for safety, and will be using an after market special dash switch similar to the fuel tank switch to manually turn on the flashers. Again Phil was thoughtful and included the extra wires for the flashers in the braided wiring loom.

Time to go out and get zapped!!

Cheers

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

please post some pictures of the process.....well, not you hanging upside down in the engine bay, but rather the actual wiring . I am also preparing to start on the wiring and spoke to Phil to get some feedback, as I am really new to wiring. Just like you (and all other for that matter), I have to include some flashers, so the challenges are similar.

regards,

Alex

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Good to hear the harness is going well. Besides yoga is good for use. I would not be surprised to hear that gal's got this job on assembly line.

Now having put new harnesses in both Pattern 12 & 13 after the trucks were assembled I can conclusively say that's not how it was done on the assembly line. I'm sure the started when it was a rolling chassis.

First time I replaced the harness on my HUP years ago, it has fully assembled took the old one out copy it and then installed the copy. When the HUP was over hauled twenty years later put the harness in starting with the chassis then once the bare body was in place much easier.

Anybody working on a Pattern 13 do the harness without the nose on, lot easier to wire.

Also as I mentioned on my Web site if you are making a new harness make it several inches (6") longer than the original, particularly at the dash end.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Phil what really helped was using the same color code as the original wiring.... made using the CMP MB-C2 wiring diagram much easier to use.

Putting in the wiring harness before the body is on the frame is definitely the way to go.... in a plant setting!!!

Fishing the headlight wiring after the fenders are installed is not easy...not impossible ...but not easy.

Alex..... regarding photos..... did not take any due to the tight physical location...... in some instances... I had to remove my jacket, roll up my shirt sleeve and remove my wrist watch to reach inside the engine bay.

I will try to take some photos and post them for you...... but if you have any specific questions let me know and will try to take additional photos or give you a verbal description.

Since Phil had faithfully reproduced the CMP harness it had the connectors mid way which allowed me to split the harness midway near the T-case cross member. It allowed me to install the rear section and the lights and apply power to test them out. I did the same with the front section...... I was fortunate enough to have 3 cab 12 to look at to see how the harness was installed as mine had been totally stripped out ( originally by the mice).

So having done the rear section I worked on the front section of the ligths and tested the headligths. Actually as you connect the most obvious parts you have less and less to be intimidated by.

My issue now is redoing an instrument cluster to that I can finish the dash wiring. I have to salvage a fuel guage then can move ahead.

I temporarily designed some front flasher lights to fit on the bumper for the signal lights... and they test good.... will have pics of that for you.

One of my headache right now is that my cab 11 never had side lights mounted on the front fenders and I am not sure I want to drill holes to install them. I am considering going back to the original headlights with the separate reflector/lens system which would include the built in parking lights inside the headlight bucket.

So far, starting from both ends and meeting in the middle, seems to work for me.

My plans are to fully hard wire the voltage regulator.... then modify to accomodate the alternator and leave the voltage regular sitting there as a dummy. I am not an expert at this and must admit that you need to really think and concentrate on doing it well..... it is not a slam dunk deal but do-able........ with patience and persistance.

Cheers