An Introduction: Chris Collins and Morris Tilly Project

[jack neville]

I clamped the pillars in situ and they seem to look ok. Will try the roof and hang the doors when they are both ready before welding the pillars into place permanently.

[jack neville]

Another small area that needs converting back to Tilly spec is a section of the side footwell. The car has stamped holes in the panel whilst the Tilly is solid. Only the large holes are filled with masonite so the stamped holes would be still visible. The rusty of front end collected from Len Watkins can donate these bits, including the straight flat bar welded on to accomodate the fire extinguisher bracket

[jack neville]

Overnight in the electrolysis bath and they are ready to fishoil and weld in when the opposite is removed.

[jack neville]

Found a photo of when I finished resetting all the strings

[jack neville]

Over the last few weeks I have been getting the car body ready for sandblasting. Among the required mods was removing the under floor toolbox. Simply cut it out, remove the car seat mount and weld in a patch. I used these little devices which are handy for lining up the panels flush with each other before tacking the patch in place and then completing the weld.

[jack neville]

The pieces with the holes were removed from the footwells on bothe sides. I will weld these tilly pieces in after it is sandblasted. I will leave them out for now just so the body is opened up better for blasting.

[jack neville]

The bottom of the windscreen A pillar is finished off. Small metal sections were required for reinforcing the pillar on the outside and inside where it bolts together.

[Mike K]

Originally Posted by jack neville

Found a photo of when I finished resetting all the strings

Hi

How did you reset the springs ?

Mike

[jack neville]

Hammered them cold Mike. I got shown how to do it years ago and have done quite a few different types with success. Just seperate all the leaves and take the two main leaves and draw an outline on the ground in chalk. Hammer at close intervals from one end of the leaf to the other working a tighter curve. Each lower leaf needs about a 6mm gap from the leaf above it with the ends touching the leaf above it. Then when you clamp the centre bolt it will pull them all together and the spring will have a tighter curve. There is a bit if guesswork involved and you don't need to worry too much with the shorter leaves. Helps if you know what the distance from eye to eye should be. I couldn't find that spec in the Tilly manual so I just positioned the spring shackle in what looked like the right position and took that measurement. They may settle a bit but we will have to wait and see. I did my jeep springs like this years ago and they have lasted well. If you do heavier truck springs it pays to enlist the help of a young man to do the hammering. I have a heavy steel block with a couple of pieces of steel welded on the end spaced about 50 mm apart to form a bridge to hammer on.

[Mike K]

You have taken on a mammoth task with those tillies .

Yes hammering . I have heard about it . Apparently its best to warm up the cold leaves by leaving them in the sun . There is a risk of a leaf cracking if theya re cold, like in the Winter .

I think they used to use a anvil , the horn on the end for the spring hammering ?

Can you post a pic of your bit of steel you use ?

Looks like you have a Hercus 260 lathe ..very nice http://www.lathes.co.uk/hercus/index.html