Spring..When a young men's mind turns to rusty nuts.....

[Bob Carriere]

Being chilly here in Ottawa I decided to try my hand at dis-assembling 16" wheel. Had to remove the bolted spare tyre ( for our UK friends)from the cargo box...... bolted rusted but gave way under the impact wrench.

First lesson learned ... I now know why they had a rubber shortage in 1946..... that has to be the heaviest 16 wheel I have handled..... lobed it off the truck... fell like a lead ballon with no bounce.

Now for the warming up trick.... pulled out the torches... impact..... **&^%%&* do you know which size socket has been lost from my socket wrench.... Yep .. exactly the 1 1/8 I needed...
So Sunday morning drove to Princess Auto got a new set of deep 3/4 drive sockets.. (in case I by a 3/4 impact at a later date.

Back home... lugging the wheel... all nuts had been soaking in Release All all night.... Release All my a..... didn't release nuthin'

Hot wrench to the rescue...... cranked up the air pressure to 125 and added a few drops of oil directly in the air line...... Cherry red it became and bang bang to nuthin' extimate the impact rated at 380 pounds at 90 pressure is probably pushing 450 at 125 pounds and extra oil.

Did all the 8 nuts alternating between forward and reverse..... took lunch break and poured some airtool oil on each of the nuts which partly cooled off.....

After lunch reheated each nut and with some persistence got them ALL off... no damage....but I really had to get the nuts a nice cherry red.

Wondering if the airline oil is some secret oil or whether the pause between trying mattered... but they came off.

Rims came apart in the centre reasonably easy....
BUT... the tires (for our CDN friends) seem to be rusted tight on the rims.

Pryied the rims apart 1 1/4 in apart.. inserted pieces of square tubing in the sapce between the two halves of the rim..... and while flat on the ground lowered the front edge of the tractor on the tyre (well you know for who) to try to break the bead.... went around the tire (yeah) on both sides..... gave up put the tractor away and went for supper and Beer...haaa beer.

Now I soaked both sides of the t... rim near the bead with W 40... ran out of the other good stuff hoping that it will soak and release. What else can I use?? the tractor weights 7500 ounds and had the front hweels off the ground and the ti-yre... got it... never even moved... in fact the casing is so hard it barely went down a few inches.......

Now my questions.....

1.... what else can I do???? to remove the darn &**&%* thing off the rim..... any suggestions to make life easier since I have another 4 hweels to go????

2. who has spare rim nuts....some are missing on the other wheels.... I need five and how much......

Finished my weekend by fabricating a lifting device to move the truck around to near the front of the barn for hot wrench and impact toll access.

Using a very thick wall piece of square 1 1/2 tubing, about 36 inches long.... fits nicely in both D rings.... weld a 5/8 U shaped ring in the middle of the bar.

Now I back up the tractor's 3 point hitch with a pintle hook attached hook up to the front of the C15a.. lift the front end off the ground and can move it along like a trailer.....

Your comments on my tyre/tire dilemma will be appreciated!!!!

Next week end ... weather and in laws permitting..
while start some cleaning up with photo coverage.

[Rolf S. Ask]

I just want to wish you a happy Eastern

[Rolf S. Ask]

have you consider that the tires may be of the run-flat type with the spaser inside, since you have trouble even with the wight of the tractor...

Rolf

[Wayne Henderson]

This only my suggestion. After spending a day similar to your experience, but using far more curses than muscles, I sat down and thought about it.
Next day I took 4x20" rims and tyres down to my local truck tyre dealer who removed each tyre in less then 5 minutes. Using the "mother of all rattle guns" and a air tool like a wedge (fitted under the bead) these 60 year old tyres popped off in seconds.
After sandblasting and painting the rims I had the same guys refit my new tyres and rustbands (which I supplied). I paid for 4 new 20" tubes and all up was $38 dollars per tyre. They didn't charge for taking the old tyres off... this is the bit where I learned something about letting the fellows with the right gear and no how do it... Byford Tyre Service on South West Hyway, Byford. West Australia... good blokes.

[Pete Ashby]

The Oxford CMP crew have done a few in our time, 900x16's R/Fsplit rim, 1050x16's R/F split rim 1100x20's split rim, 900x20's bead lock, 750x20's bead lock, and 900x13's split rim and last but not least 600x16's split rim.... They were all total $$$%%stds.

Not one ever come off without loads of effort. I agree with Wayne if you can take the things to a tire (spelling noted Bob) shop spend a few quid and save a heart attack and hernia.

Pete
On a serious note never be tempted to put some air into the tube to try to split the rim, we've all been tempted at one time or another but it can really end in a short trip to the morgue

[Mike K]

My method is rather crude , but its very effective .

If you have no use for the old tyres , cut them off with a cut off wheel on a grinder . I use a little 4" grinder and firstly , cut out a section of the side walls until a large enough hole is made to access the bead . You can then carefully cut through the cable in the bead , this will release the beads grip on the rim .

This method works on really badly rusted beads that are glued to the rim . The only negative is, the tyre and tube are destroyed in the process .

I have also heard of people burning the tyre off , this is drastic and would affect the tempering of the steel in the rim !! Clouds of black smoke would have the EPA on your back these days too .

Mike

[David_Hayward (RIP)]

Interesting poitn about spelling as I was amazed when looking through the DND records that the word was spelt "tyre" right up until 1940 when I suppose the need to deal with the US TIRE companies such as Firestone meant that an influence was spread acorss the Dominion. However the alternative spelling in the UK goes back to pre-1920 when both versions were used and a discussion that I have read from the time states that etymologically the word should indeed be "tire", as what is a "tyre" except an ancient city in the eastern Med?

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally posted by Mike Kelly
My method is rather crude , but its very effective .

If you have no use for the old tyres , cut them off with a cut off wheel on a grinder .

Crude & effective, but potentially hazardous to your health! A British friend of mine told me about a HMV club member who cut through several old truck tyres. He got quite ill for a long period, only later he learned this was due to heavy metal poisoning. Apparently heavy metals like cadmium were present in 1940's rubber tyres.

When the time comes to replace the 6.00-16 bar treads on my F15A I'll take them to a truck tyre shop and pay the pro's to tackle it while I drink my complimentary cup of coffee

[Bob Carriere]

Thanks for all the advice....

When all is said and done wisdom prevails....

One must accept that we can't do it all ...... and I will be going to my local tractor tire dealer and use his expertise and muscles...

Lucky enough to live in a rural area, this tire shop came to my home a while back to replace a large tractor tire (16.8x28)... the chap worked alone for about 90 minutes... he removed the tire and replaced a new one with tube and calcium load without even removing the rimoff the tractor... but it did cost $450... so a small 16 in. wheel should not be a problem for him...

I will sand blast and paint myself using POR 15.......and may try to install the new tires myself .... well ....try to do one anyways.

Please remember I am still looking for 5 wheel rim nuts......

[Bob Carriere]

I am glad to report that after following the most common sense advice.... I took the darn wheel and tyre to the tire shop.....

.... for $12.84 and ten minutes of waiting the whell sections were removed from the old tire...... and to add insult to injury...he told me next time DO NOT remove the nuts we can do it for the same price.......

Told them the story about the truck..... and promised them to show them a picture next time...... they will remove the tire off the C15 rim.... give me back the rim to clean up.... remove the 9:00x16 tire off another Dodge Budd rim and re-instal on my clean C15 rim for $35 dollars .....can't beat that.

The old tire was so brittle the hydralic bead breaker actually cracked the casing...... the tube was not a thick run flat but a very smooth.... very soft and stretchy rubber... with 3 patches. On the tube was a "Dominion Rubber" logo with the 9:00x16 dim. and Made in Canada. There was a flap BUT no spacer between the beads........

I will be removing the other four tires.... 3 are dated 1943 and one is dated 1940..... I hope to find at least on original thick rubber run flat tube.......

Thanks for the good advice...

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally posted by Bob C.
I hope to find at least on original thick rubber run flat tube.......

Bob,

Runflat tyres do not have thick rubber tubes, but thick sidewalls. About 4" thick, this is what prevents to tyre to collapse when the air pressure is diminished. For pictures see my web page on 9.00-16 tyres. You'll notice when you're handling a runflat tyre, they are unbelievably heavy.

Cheers,
Hanno

[Keith Webb]

I had a look at your excellent tyre page and on checking the link to my page noticed there were a couple of pics missing of new Chevs which I've just fixed.

CMP tyre page

[Max Hedges]

G'day All
the way we do it is not take it to some shop and get them to do it, we do it our self and keep the TYRE and rim all in good condition.
1) remove from vehical
2) make sure its flat
3) undo red nuts
4) take steal wedges (use to split timber) using a sledge hammer belt them in around the bead
5) after going right round the rim once usally you have to do it again and again to get in the swing of things
6) once it has move away from the rim just a little bit so one doesnt work anymore you need to set 2 wedges one on top of another and repeat step 5
7) once it moves away even more we have a short steal bar about 18" long with a chisel point thats i used until the rim is loose enough to just pull of by hand

TIP 1: usally we put a peace of timber between the rims to protect the thread on the bolts.
TIP 2: the biger the sledge hammer the better it hits
TIP 3: It doesnt hurt to have a coffe brake in the middle of this method
TIP 4: Big heave wedges are better and try hittinh them in on different agles to see what works best


You never know what you might find inside as we found a tube with canadian war office markings and a date on it which we gave away to Mike Cecile

We havent had one blitz rim beat us yet and that inclueds run flat tyres. If this methord sound like your way of doing things give it a go and if it doesnt work to well invite some friends over for a beer and tell them to bring there sledge hammer

But beware it has taken up to 2 days to finish the job with alot of rest.

any question or quarys?

Have fun

Max and Aaron

[Keith Webb]

Nothing can beat good ol' country know-how and application!!

[Richard Farrant]

Originally posted by Max Hedges
[But beware it has taken up to 2 days to finish the job with alot of rest.

Max,
Is that up to 2 days per tyre? You guys can't have much to do then, if you spend that much time on them !!
I cut four 900-16 off recently, then got to the spare and the tyre fell off, had'nt got rusted inside. good to hear from you, how is brother John?

Richard

[Max Hedges]

G'day Richard,
We are still serviving looking for rain badly and still feeding sheep. Yes it has taken 2 days for one type but as you get older the rest periods get longer you can only have a few hits and have to rest for an hour or 2. Mind you the last one came apart with very few swings of the sledge hammer.
We are just checking our vehicals for ANZAC day on friday hoping to take the carrier for a run in th street march. Aaron had to drain all the oils from his chev after the swim in the water as he had water in the engine and transmision.

from down under

Max

[Richard Farrant]

Max,
Yes I heard its been a long dry spell for you guys. We also have not had much rain this spring, and it will not help the crops, etc. Then again, we complain when it does rain !
I know what you mean about the longer rest periods when you reach 50.
Hope all the vehicles behave themselves for Anzac day.

Richard

[Ted Gil]

Hello Guys

I wonder if anyone can help me out. Its regarding wheel nuts. I understand the wheel nuts on the left side of a CMP are left threaded and those on the right side are right threaded. What about the outer nuts that hold the rim together? The outer nuts on my truck are rusted on solid and in order to remove them (deflated tire of course) I want to make sure I'm cranking them off in the right direction and I do not want to snap the stud. I assume they may match the wheel nut direction of removal, but what if you replace a wheel with a spare either to the left or right side, this would negate the direction of nut removal. Logic would dictate right thread for all outer nuts as they are only holding the rim flanges together, but I would like some confirmation.
Thanks for any help.

Regards Ted

[Dirk Leegwater (RIP)]

Originally posted by Bob C.
Thanks for all the advice....

When all is said and done wisdom prevails....

One must accept that we can't do it all ...... and I will be going to my local tractor tire dealer and use his expertise and muscles...

Lucky enough to live in a rural area, this tire shop came to my home a while back to replace a large tractor tire (16.8x28)... the chap worked alone for about 90 minutes... he removed the tire and replaced a new one with tube and calcium load without even removing the rimoff the tractor... but it did cost $450... so a small 16 in. wheel should not be a problem for him...

I will sand blast and paint myself using POR 15.......and may try to install the new tires myself .... well ....try to do one anyways.

Please remember I am still looking for 5 wheel rim nuts......

Still looking for the red ones Bob? go to my website and visit the
page "parts by number" and find out Ford number C01Q - 1110
that's the same red nut as Chevrolet number 1675.

Mvg. Dirk Leegwater

[Richard Farrant]

Originally posted by Ted Gil [/i]
I wonder if anyone can help me out. Its regarding wheel nuts. I understand the wheel nuts on the left side of a CMP are left threaded and those on the right side are right threaded. What about the outer nuts that hold the rim together?


Ted,
The outer nuts clamping the wheel halves are conventional right hand thread.

Richard

[Ted Gil]

Richard

Thanks for your reply. It confirms my belief that the outer wheel nuts are right threaded, but better safe then sorry.

Ted