Restoration of a M38A1-CDN3 106mm recoilless rifle Jeep

[Martin Dauphinais]

The Jeep is not close to me, so I have to plan working on it during week-ends only or I bring some small parts that can be done on my place.

The next pictures are randomly taken picture that show the general condition of the Jeep. I realized that I can post only 10 pictures per post, so will proceed with few bunch of pictures. Usually, I place the picture's description below the picture. The text above is not necessarily related to the picture itself!







These pictures are mostly to help me how the seat belts work. They are a bit dry now and probably will need to be changed but with the max speed of this Jeep, I'll try to keep them original. Just not sure if they will pass the test?! Are there any treatment I can do the make them a little more flexible?



Here is the compartment under the passenger's seat. Don't really know what they placing there. The tool kit I guess? I would love knowing what was the EIS of the vehicle at this time!



That's the lock of the passenger's seat and I don't know what is this electrical connection. What was the purpose of it?! Even the lock seems to be not working appropriately. Will have to find out what's wrong with it!





I need two front tow clevises

[Martin Dauphinais]

Next group of pictures are miscellaneous. If you can help me finding the missing parts, please do not hesitate to leave a comment!













I need a spare rim to get the spare tire. I have a very stupid question… which nuts should I take? Any common nuts or those made for the Jeep?



This is what the engine looks like.



The most difficult choice will be to determine the final color. Do I keep it camouflage, which is my first choice or do I paint it with the original color like under the hood? I really don't know. Also, I would like to know what is supposed to be strapped under the hood?



Battery compartment. Which battery should I take?

[Martin Dauphinais]

The windshield up… it's already looking good!







A cracked mirror… Where should I find one?



I'll need numerous cotton straps. I do not know if they still available. The ones we use today are some king of synthetic fabric and they are not good to old stuff in place.



Nice serial number plate. I just hope I'll be able to remove the green paint to get the plate in original colors which I doubt it is possible.



Windshield washer pouch… with "original" windshield washer in it!



Headlights with wiring.

[Martin Dauphinais]

The only negative part is the floor on the passenger's side where the battery may have leaked and did a hole in it. That's the only place I will have to learn how the fix a hole in the floor.

[David Dunlop]

Lovely vehicle, Martin!

The electrical cable running below the passenger door sill is the 24 volt power feed for radio equipment.

I believe a shovel fits in the brackets under the hood.


David

[maple_leaf_eh]

Yes, the fitting under the hood is for a short handled, round nose shovel with a D-handle. We had a variety of military issue and commercial purchase ones. As long as it has the right curve to fit under the hood and over the engine, you're OK.

The cotton straps are correct. There is a lot of dust on yours, but those are right. If you find a roll of that 1" cotton webbing and some heavy green cotton thread, you'll be OK. The unit Mat Techs are probably busy as it is making rifle cases and luggage bags on the side to help. They might not want to change thread either, because the modern thread is much stronger.

I don't have original batteries in my M38A1 or M151. I just measured the size and went to my local battery dealer. I happened to be doing that errand in uniform, and the guys gave me a trade discount. (Lesson learned, always ask for a military discount.)

The M38A1 EIS from memory was really very limited: a shovel; a spout, flexible i.e. "horse cock" for the jerry can; a 12" long chrome tire pressure gauge; a short tire wrench; small bottle style jack and folding jack handle; and maybe a 12" crescent wrench and straight blade screwdriver. The period correct bag is a grubby green canvas tool pouch with a flip over flap that looks like a postal envelope. Some units SOPs would have added an axe, a pick and a machete in a black plastic sheath.

I had forgotten about the 24v slave cable relocation to get away from the spare tire. The loops pointing down are unknown, but possibly the answer already given is for aircraft tie-down.

I'd be suspicious about guessing if this vehicle had an installed radio. The chassis is already at capacity with 4 crew, their weapons and gear, the 106 and a couple of rounds. An RT524 and IKEE adds weight that isn't much use. The average infantry radio net is also low powered and localized. If it had a radio, I think it would have been a PRC25 or 77 set slung where ever it didn't get in the way. The normal improvised location is suspended over a seat back, but yours fold down.

The data plate might be upside down on purpose. The 106 carrier was just different enough from the standard vehicle to have other weights and dimensions. Did the CF make new plates or just warn the crew to memorize the changes?

[rob love]

The lock on the tool box is not correct. It looks like the original latch was missing, and someone welded on a washer to the front to act as a hasp.

The upside down data plate is just one of those things. I have never seen another, and it looks like it was done at the factory.

From the CFTO modification instruction for the M100 trailer (Installation of tie down ring kits), it mentions the reason for the tie down rings: "for air transportation of the vehicle". I'm afraid I don't have the instruction for the 1/4 ton vehicle, but it will say the same thing.

I note you are missing the knob on your dole primer pump. The original shofter knobs were just press on, and when they got older, they tended to fall off the shifter, so when you went to do your next shift, you would get the shifter poking your palm. I would routinely remove the dole primer knob, cut the shifter a little shorter to where it had enough diameter to support the knob, and then thread the shifter and install the knob onto it. Odds are I did that to the very Jeep you have back in the early 80s, when I worked MSS at Minto Armouries.

Glad you are hapy with the truck, and hopefully you will feel the same way on those late late nights when you are working underneath the jeep with dirt in your eyes, blood running down your fingers mixed with the grease, and nothing is going right.

[jim fraser (RIP)]

congratulations martin. i saw the jeep first hand when rob came thru arnprior.absolutely an awesome jeep.all original like that is very rare today.i have a 106 jeep i will be dismantling for parts.regards jim fraser.613 623 6156.

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by Martin Dauphinais

Next group of pictures are miscellaneous. If you can help me finding the missing parts, please do not hesitate to leave a comment!

...




The most difficult choice will be to determine the final color. Do I keep it camouflage, which is my first choice or do I paint it with the original color like under the hood? I really don't know. Also, I would like to know what is supposed to be strapped under the hood?

...

That is the factory paint colour under the hood. Semi gloss "hard" green paint. As has been spoken about many times here on MLU, about 1978 there was an order from FMCHQ, what was Army HQ at the time, to camouflage paint the vehicles. I put that date on the record as I scroll back my memories of the armouries in Sherbrooke. There was some end of the fiscal year money and guys like me played hookey from school to get an extra day's pay brush painting the Jeeps. The plan was simple. Swipe a piece of chalk from the classroom, walk across the drill hall with the camouflage and concealment manual, and copy the outlines of the M38 diagram on a freshly washed M38A1, then turn the Troopers and Corporals loose with brushes and gallon paint cans. Whatever paint peeling or flaking is the after effect of that level of surface preparation.

The attached diagrams have been posted here before, and could be Rob Love's.