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#1
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Thank you Rob! Always a pleasure to have you guiding me!
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#2
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Batteries are plugged in. Dash board is working with temperature, battery power and pressure. The horn is working too. My switch light appears to be dead. Are there anyway that we can bypass the switch in order to see which lights are good or not?!
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#3
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Not without a wiring diagram, and even then it's going to be confusing. As well you won't have any circuit protection in the event there is a short to ground. Just order a switch from any of the retailers (or ebay) and then you'll know. Or if you are in a big hurry, ask a vehicle tech (or the maintenance officer) if you can borrow a switch for a day to find out.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Willys-M38s-...RYSzPq&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-5-TON-M35A...67UBGg&vxp=mtr http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-3-Lever-...9Satm0&vxp=mtr |
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#4
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I had numerous troubles in my wiring which took awhile to sort out.
Especially compounding the issue when you have two or more issues happening at the same time in the same circuit. Bad grounds and bared or shorted wires can cause havoc on the system while troubleshooting. I had to replace my solid state flasher switch as well.
__________________
3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
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#5
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Any issues with a short in the signals usually leads to a failure of the flasher. They eventually put an inline fuse into the system, and in Martin's case, it can be seen in the photo of the engine compartment just near to the flasher. While the entire light system is protected by the 20 amp (if I recall correctly) breaker built into the switch, this was obviously too high for the flasher to handle.
The indication that you have a short is that the indicator light on the signal switch will stay on. But that is also an indication of a overheated or failing flasher. |
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#6
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Quote:
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1953 M37 CDN 1953 M38A1 CDN 1967 M38A1 CDN2 |
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#7
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Hey guys,
I want to thank all those who do not hesitate to step in this thread. Your guidance and sometimes your questions are leading me through some new things to learn for me. My learning curve is very steep… I would like to get the manuals but they are not easy to find. So, I spent almost 24 hours on this Jeep in the last 2 1/2 days and it was really great. Full of good news. The future looks really good for this one. First, we flushed the old gasoline from the tank. It was just awful and was close to get a nice buzz with, even outside of the garage. In fact, the tank was full… I looked twice on the invoice to see if it was written that the Jeep came with a full tank, and it was not! The gas is not cheap today, I was not expecting this special attention. :happy: However, I will have to change the tank or to bring to a place where they can apply a coating inside it. The tank is way to complicated to scrub. I don't think I can do it myself. So, as soon as I can get a switch (I found one near me) I will go try the electrical system. The general shape of this Jeep is really stunning. Not a single screw did resist to be remove. The floor is all in great shape, except where the batteries drooled. Then, I'll try to find the gasket kit for the carb and resolve the problem with the gas tank. I don't know yet how I will thoroughly clean the Jeep. How you guys do to have the cleanest engine compartment as possible? Are you putting the whole beast in pieces? Finally, few pictures I took of the cleaning/assessing session. |
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#8
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Wire number 460/461, which is the power in to the signal system. I am currently away from my manuals (Mexican Mayan riviera) so the fuze amperage will have to wait.
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