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  #1  
Old 15-02-17, 11:56
Mike K's Avatar
Mike K Mike K is offline
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Default Mattock

Quote:
Originally Posted by hrpearce View Post
I failed English so the spelling could be wrong.
Like a pick but with flat cutting edges, one like a hoe and the other at ninety degrees for cutting roots in the side of the trench as you dig.
Hi

Maybe it is a mattock ? Thanks for that .

But I am not sure how a mattock can cut into a old thick rubber tyre ?

Mike
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  #2  
Old 15-02-17, 13:59
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Kelly View Post
Hi

Maybe it is a mattock ? Thanks for that .

But I am not sure how a mattock can cut into a old thick rubber tyre ?

Mike
You could attempt a rendition of Monty Python's 'Lumberjack Song' with an axe?

The conversation seems to revolve around doing whatever is necessary to overcome 75 yrs of hardened rubber, by cutting, chiselling, prying and general brute force. Even the wartime picture posted earlier shows how much force was required on in-service wheels and tires.
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  #3  
Old 15-02-17, 15:15
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Are you trying to save the tires?

On the harder dry rubber a chain saw does a nice job...... take a section off so you can get close to the bead area...... finish with a hand grinder and cold chisel to cut the steel bead cord....... and yes the grinder will smoke and stink.

Once the bead gets broken the remaining section will pell off with the chisel.

Careful not to attack the rim.

Good luck

Cheers
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  #4  
Old 16-02-17, 09:55
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Default saw

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
On the harder dry rubber a chain saw does a nice job...... take a section off so you can get close to the bead area...... finish with a hand grinder and cold chisel to cut the steel bead cord....... and yes the grinder will smoke and stink.

Once the bead gets broken the remaining section will pell off with the chisel.

Careful not to attack the rim.

Good luck

Cheers
I have been thinking along the same lines. I have a small electric chain saw , I find stuff like that in the Warragul op shop .

The old rubber is very crumbly in nature, I had a go with a hand saw and it cuts into the tyre relatively easily . Either the chain saw or a reciprocating saw should be effective. Once the bead is expose , then a small grinder will break the wire.

re: the " S " mark, interesting . Yes the two arrows above/below , I have seen them as well.

After driving around the WOT2 to events years ago, one day we discovered one of the old RF tyres on the back , had no air in it !

BTW Terry, nice idea the device for breaking the bead. Did you discover the Whitworth size nuts !
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  #5  
Old 17-02-17, 03:07
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Default sawing

The chainsaw was effective , if anyone passing by noticed what I was doing The bead lock is in there, I can see it . There is no hope of removing these tyres with a conventional bead breaker .

Now what to do next . I need to cut the last inch or so of rubber to gain access to the wire . The angle grinder .
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File Type: jpg sawing2.jpg (125.4 KB, 1 views)
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  #6  
Old 17-02-17, 09:15
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Default hard work

This is hard work and not the sort of thing to be undertaken by the faint hearted disciples out there. I am in need of a weeks rest before I tackle the next one.
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  #7  
Old 17-02-17, 10:51
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Removing rusted on tyres

Hi Mike,

Nice work. I must admit I felt a bit squeamish reading about the use of a chain saw to remove tyres here on the forum but after seeing the wall thickness of your RF tyres compared to conventional 9.00 x 16" I can see the advantage over a reciprocating saw. See attached photo for comparison. I could only envision the disaster if chain accidentally meets steel rim, or if it kicks back, hence my concern.

I can only vouch for my standard military tyres but my Ryobi reciprocating saw goes through the tyre carcass like a hot knife through butter. I Used a medium pitch wood cutting blade in it. It still does the job on standard tyres and a lot safer and easier to control than an angle grinder or chain saw in my humble opinion. Just drill the four 3/8" or bigger starting holes as I mentioned in a post last year on the subject.

I used a hand chisel to cut the bead wires but to do it again I would use an air chisel. It would sure speed up the process, save the knuckles, and they are cheap to buy now.
As always, I bought an air chisel after I had removed 10 tyres. Some people learn slowly!

Cheers,
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  #8  
Old 15-02-17, 19:58
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hrpearce hrpearce is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Kelly View Post
Hi

Maybe it is a mattock ? Thanks for that .

But I am not sure how a mattock can cut into a old thick rubber tyre ?

Mike
Thanks for the spelling, the root cutting side cut in fairly easily, the hard part was aiming consistently.
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  #9  
Old 15-02-17, 21:21
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Default

A random wild thought on this tyre removal problem with CMP rims.

I think I might have read somewhere that during the war, when natural rubber sources dried up, synthetic rubber development got a huge boost. The story goes that a number of serious problems with the synthetic rubber quickly became evident, to the point that all synthetic tyres had a red patch added to the sidewall to identify them to be be inspected regularly.

If there is any truth to that story, has anyone ever noticed if it is these old synthetic tyres that are giving removal problems today, old natural rubber tyres, or does it make no difference at all?

David
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  #10  
Old 16-02-17, 01:24
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Default yes

I believe these tyres are synthetic , they have the "s" marking above the WD logo. Somebody suggested wrapping a locking chain around the rim and inflating the inner tube .
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  #11  
Old 16-02-17, 02:00
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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Default

The 'S' mark, where burned in post-production, was a disposals sign to indicate the tyre had been disposed of legally. It was often accompanied by a broad arrow, or two broad arrows, point to point.

Mike
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