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#1
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no worries Mike, looking forward to seeing this project evolve!
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Military re-enactor and modeller |
#2
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I managed to remove the old valve guides , these were slightly worn and I've seen a lot worse. But anyway I decided to make some new guides . I bought a length of 2P grade cast iron and machined it to size but my first attempts didn't go to plan .
I revised my setup and now have worked out the method that is producing nice concentric guides . My old ex tech school lathe has its quirks but it can still produce nice work !
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#3
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Too late now for you Mike, but I understand that flathead v8s that sit for long periods tend to stick valves. One answer (as I understand) is bronze liners.
If the morris is also prone, then maybe starting with bronze instead of cast iron is a good move for anyone tackling this in the future?
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Bluebell Carrier Armoured O.P. No1 Mk3 W. T84991 Carrier Bren No2.Mk.I. NewZealand Railways. NZR.6. Dodge WC55. 37mm Gun Motor Carriage M6 Jeep Mb #135668 So many questions.... |
#4
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Yes I did look into bronze but don't know where to get it, its a special manganese bronze they use. I got the cast iron bar from Flocast , at North Coburg . The iron they make is a machining grade , it does not have the superhard skin that will blunt your tools !
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#5
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I received an update from my engine man today, my CS8 engine block needs to be bored to +40 thou and I've only got the new +20 thou pistons . We discussed the options and I said I would have a look at another engine I have here , I removed it from a PU Morris , I will measure the bores for wear - hopefully it will be useable.
After all the effort of removing the studs and the work stripping it down, it was a wasted effort ![]() ![]() At 300 bucks each I'm not buying new made in South Aust. JP brand pistons . My Morris friend in the UK has informed me the JP pistons are not up to standard anyway, he fitted them and after experiencing oil burning problems, he discovered the ring grooves have caused issues . JP overdid the ring groove taper , it should be .001" but on measuring, they are something like .010" . The theory is: as the piston heats up the ring grooves change shape , ever so slightly . A tiny taper is made in the grooves to allow for the change.
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1940 cab 11 C8 1940 Morris-Commercial PU 1941 Morris-Commercial CS8 1940 Chev. 15cwt GS Van ( Aust.) 1942-45 Jeep salad |
#6
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Hello Mike, have you considered having the engine sleeved and bored to accept the .020" OS pistons, may be a cheaper option. Just be sure to shave a little off your head to keep the compression ratio up.
It seems a shame not to use NOS if you have it. Dave.
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1 x 1955 Austin Champ WN1(restored) 2 x 1956 Austin Champ WN1(restored) 1 x 1955 Humber 4 x 4 GS (restored) 1 x 1945 FMC 1/4 Ton Trailer (restored) 1 x 1942 Bantam 1/4 Ton Trailer (restored) |
#7
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Hi Mike, are sleeves an option?
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Robert Pearce. |
#8
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Mike,
This might be bad advice but I'll throw it out there... There are pistons perhaps that arent Morris but may still be what you need. A chap from Wagga recently restored a 1912 Daimler Bus and discovered a Fiat tractor piston was exactly the same and used them in his engine rebuild. Another local resto on a Matchless motorcycle used Bedford pistons. Thinking outside the box? May save some bucks
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
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