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Old 30-07-17, 03:00
rob love rob love is offline
carrier mech
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Shilo MB, the armpit of Canada
Posts: 7,594
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Bob: When you pull the top off the carb, look for little tiny grains of rust in the bottom of the floatbowl. If you are seeing those, then they are what are causing the flooding. Back in the day, you would pull up to a light or stop sign, and suddenly the engine would rumble then stall out. The only way to start it again was to turn off the fuel at the tap on the frame, clear the fuel, and then once running again re-open the valve.

The cause is minute particles of rust in the tank making it through the rather coarse fuel filter system. With the top off of the carb, look in the bottom of the float bowl and it will look like tiny red sand. The solution is an inline filter. You have a choice. You can replace the inlet elbow fitting at the carb with a 90° 1/4 m-f pipe elbow, then install the little fuel filter from a mid 80s Ford (same filter was on the M151A2 Jeep). The steel line then has to be reshaped to fit onto the filter. However, those same particles that reach the carb can also unseat the little check valves in the fuel pump. Remove the top off the fuel pump, clean out any debris,and install an inline fuel filter into the rubber line between the frame and the pump. If you have cleaned out the pump as described, then you don't need the one at the carb.

Personally, I have never seen a needle valve have a problem with the pressures unless either the float is buggered or the problems that I have described above.
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