How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

I decided to put on the canvas top the other day. This helps to free up space on a shelf and also will help keep the dust out of the back of the box. Plus it helps to make it look like things are moving along.

I ended up using the original wooden runners that were still with the box when I got it. For the most part they were in great shape. Even retaining a lot of really nice original paint. The one runner did suffer from some rot on both ends and bugs in one spot. I removed as much dry rot as I could and then decided to use some 2 part epoxy casting resin I had. The stuff is very hard wearing. I did some pours to fill in the voids from the original rot. I also made some simple molds from steel plate I had. I then poured the resin in and let it setup before removing the plates. I then used a belt sander to do some finishing touches and blending of the resin into the original wood. This was all then painted up.

When I went to install them, I had to jack up one side of the box and then inset them in from the sides. After getting both in, I realized that they come in a left and right pair and well let just say I got my straw foot and right foot mixed up. So jack up the box again and swap them around.

[Jordan Baker]

I managed to use the original footman loops that were on the box as well. I also picked up a supply of NOS ones from a dealer in the states thanks to Ebay. They matched my originals perfectly. Im using NOS woodscrews as the originals were too far gone. Its times like this that Im glad I pickup old jars of screws from people. Sometimes this older stuff comes in handy considering the slotted stuff is getting harder to find.

I also moved the WS19 into the truck. More right now just to get it out of the way. I still need to go through it and give it a good dusting and cleaning up. Plus I need to get some new shocks mounts for it.

Lastly I got the box to frame threaded rods I needed from a local shop. I figured I should do the usual POR15 and paint thing on them. So today I sandblasted them and POR'd them and then while the POR was still a bit tacky I spray painted on the final top coat. Ive done this a few times and it works really well. The paint seems to get bonded to the almost cured POR and makes it very tough.

[Jordan Baker]

Installed the tailgate today. Thankfully I left just enough room behind the rear of the truck and the rear shop wall that I can swing the tailgate open fully.

I also finished painting the wooden side boards. They received a few coats of POR15 to seal the wood, including inside the drilled holes. Then when I was screwing on the footman loops, I also applied POR to the screw threads. This should completely seal the wood around the screws.

[Jordan Baker]

Not too much to report over the past few weeks due to an overseas vacation. But the other day I started marking my engine rebuild/testing stand. Thanks to the drawings Phil Waterman put up on his site it has been an easy job of fabrication.

[Bob Carriere]

When thinking of wheels they are never too big. Unless you have the luxury of a hand troweled concrete floor small rubber tired wheels from Princess are preferable and easier on you. A somewhat wide stance when you do the wheels will also improve movement and balance.

Time to start looking for a quick disconnect old Johnson outboard tank from your favorite flea market.

If you are considering running your engine a generic sound radiator will do with a house electric fan. Removing the fan blade from the engine will greatly reduce noise and dust....and safer for knuckles......but keep the belt from the water pump.

If you install the tranny and clutch pack you can use one of Phil's old trick. Once you have established Top Dead Center for timing......open the little door on the bellhousing and mark your clutch pack with yellow pain stick..... use a bailing wire wrapped across the opening screw to screw...... so when you install the engine you can actually use the new timing mark....until you floor is installed....... I also marked my flywheel from below so I can hand turn the engine and find TDC easier.

Remember to have fun!!!!!!

[Jordan Baker]

Bob, im confused by your wheel comments? So i should get the rubber coated ones or go for larger cast steel only ones?

[Bob Carriere]

If the engine stand loaded is moved about in a garage with a rough floor or a dirt floor or even outside by the front of your garage, the larger wheels of any kind are best to overcome surface bumps..... in MHO the small 8 in to 10 inch inflated rubber tires as far superior to any type of steel or hard rubber coated caster system...... besides the small rubber tires are also available in caster format. the down side is they will require inflation maintenance.

The casters I used are fine in the attic of the barn on hard plywood floors but a real pain on dirt or the rough floor of my barn.

Cheers