Info needed: 1967 M38A1 Lubrication?

[rob love]

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

YUP!


7) Earlier in the year we had a kid spin the starter on the V100 - quite unexpectedly!

I put a M113 out for display with almost dead batteries. Feeling that there could be no issue with the kids managing to start it, I left the batteries connected (I no longer do that).

Later, while walking by the vehicle, I noticed a large puddle of bile next to the vehicle and had trouble figuring out what it was. It was then I realized the little darlings had managed to find the full combination of master switch and bilge pump switch, and had bumped the forward hull out onto the parking lot. Luckily nobody had been standing there. They also had pulled the tiller bars off...luckily the vehicle had not rolled forward.

In the end, I considered it a learning experience. As I mentioned before, the drivers position is separated by a sheet of plexiglass, and just as often as not I stick a mannequin in uniform into the driver's seat to prevent the little explorers from climbing up through the hatch and into the drivers hatch. After all, the glass is just a detour and not an obstacle. Mind you, there is a slot for the ramp release lever, and the little arms reach in as far as they can to explore.

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob, Terry & Frank....thanks for your comments as per car/military shows....yup....chalk it up to lack of experience with kids at shows...I have learnt a lesson......however, disaster has struck.

Rob....while taking the jeep out for a drive (30kms) on the way home about 500m from home there was a loud ping and I started to loose coolant. I got home well enough but once parked saw that coolant was puking from the water pump puke hole. I called Brian Asbury about 100kms from Barrie and he has a 3 pulley rebuilt water pump so I will be picking one up along with a new thermostat and gasket. At the same time, I will have the rad flushed to clean the core. Any other things that I should do while having the rad & water pump off?

Question....hypothetically, if a chunk broke off of the water pump vanes ( I did hear a metallic pink before the coolant puke)....is it still safe to drive 2-3 kms to a friends house to have it repaired?...my garage is way too small.

Also...back to the shifters, where do the two 4x4 shifters (in/out & high/low)have to be to be able to drive the jeep in two wheel drive?....at times, with the jeep in first or reverse, the jeep does not move after I let out the clutch and I have to play with the other two shifters to get the jeep to move.

Lastly, I put a finger into the tail pipe and its very black and sooty and from what I understand, this may be due to a rich carb...any possible adjustments that I can make? I have not looked at the plugs yet but the jeeps starts first poke/prod and then runs well until shut down.

Best regards and let me know when I have to start paying repair consulting fees.

les

[rob love]

It's your Jeep, so expose it to as much abuse as you would like. A blown water pump is not a disaster....that's just normal maintenance for a 50 year old vehicle.

I would be very surprised if you could hear a water pump vane break. But if the water pump bearing is shot, perhaps that is where the noise came from? If there a lot of play on the fan?

I would suggest topping up the rad with water and leaving the cap off for the couple mile trip. I have seen too many Jeep blocks crack in the center between the #2 and 3 cylinders because of overheating. Unless the leak is of biblical proportions, you should be OK. Your temp gauge will tell you, however they are slow to report if the coolant level is very low.

Shifters: Normal driving. First lever on the transfer case (2-4wd) is all the way forward....it should just about hit the defroster deflector lever. Second lever (H-N-L) is all the way back. There should be a little data plate nearest you on the batch of data plates showing the shift patterns.

Better rich than lean. A cold engine can cause what you describe, leaving the choke on, or merely setting the mixture screw. With the engine hot and running smooth, turn in the mixture screw until the engine starts to stumble. Do not jam the screw all the way in. Now back it out until the engine reaches it's highest idle.

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob....thanks for all the replies to my inquiries. Before I reply to your answers one by one I will say that I met with Brian Asbury....I bought a rebuilt 3 pulley water pump from him this AM as well as several other parts....he had nothing but good things to say about you....I will move on.

1. The old pump came off easily...looks good-no vanes/impeller blades broken and there is no play between the vanes and the pulley....in short, it turns fine with no growl. OK....so what made the loud ping noise (just like a M1 garand clip leaving the breach) before the coolant let go through the puke hole?

2. I did not take it too a shop...after 20 years not wrenching on my vehicles (with the exception of wiper changes, oil-filter changes, diff/tranny fluid changes etc) I got down to it with my wife and everything was off, cleaned and paint prepped to be put back on in 3 hours. I will however bring the rad into a rad shop to be cleaned & flushed as there is a lot of brown-grey sludge in and around the core. Question-when I took off the thermostat housing to replace the thermostat....there was none.....why?...what are the ramifications? and how may it have effected the longevity of the engine?

3. Yup...got "all" the data plates including shift patterns but it does not show shift pattern for normal 2 wheel driving ...so for normal driving the 4x4 in/out shifter should be all the way forward-to the dash-firewall (OUT) and the second shifter (low/neutral/high) should be all the way back-towards the seats (HIGH)....right?
I am asking because I have lots of play in the 4x4 shifters and at times in 1st or reverse the jeep will not move once the clutch is engaged but if I play with the 4x4 shifters it will engage......so, once the jeep is put together, I will try it as you wrote it and see if the main transmission shifter will engage in 1st once the clutch is engaged.

4. Rich or Lean? OK....firstly, the jeeps starts first time every time and runs well without a choke start up.....but it possibly requires a leaner mixture....where is the mixture screw?

I was wondering if you can reply in point form as above.

So....out of all of these inquires, the most intriguing is the loud metallic ping and then the coolant puking fluid even though the old pumps looks and feels good. Any thoughts as the wife is now hesitant in future drives in the jeep.

les

[rob love]

I can't explain the pinging sound....likely a red herring: unrelated to the fault you did find. Heck, it could be a 1/2" wrench you left on the skid plate finally fell onto the road.

The lack of thermostat is not ideal. But it normally leads to condensation in the oil (especially at low temps. I recall seeing what looked almost like a film of whip cream on the dipstick in the winter time). As well the engine will not fully burn it's fuel at lower temps. Perhaps that is why your tailpipe is sooty.

Levers should be like you say. They will rattle around if the little spring clips are not slipped between them and the bracket they mount into. If they are popping out of their gear, then you have some transfer case repairs to do.

The mixture screw is located at the bottom inch of the carb, pointing towards the heater. Look for a screw with a spring between the screw head and the carb body.

Can't help on the wife thing. I just kept trading up until I found one who likes/tolerates my toys. Even now she can complain a little too much on a cruise night.

[Les Kovacs]

Rob....enjoyed your last response about the wife....

My thoughts exactly about the sooty tail pipe....a 160 thermostat will go in as soon as the rad comes back from the flushing its getting.....hopefully that will get rid of the soot and run the engine at proper temps....one of my initial inquiries was why the temp gauge never or rarely went past 140 F.

Both clips are in the 4x4 shifters and they are loose but they have never yet popped out of gear....tried the shifter locations you described and it works. I guess at times I never had them in the proper sequence for 2 wheel drive.

Once I get everything buttoned up & working/running I will adjust the mixture screw as per your response.

Thanks for suggesting Brian Asbury as a possible source of parts in one of your earlier posts....he had parts for the CDN2 that many others did not.

[Les Kovacs]

Finally figured out why jeep would not move at times....4x4 shifters were loose with lots of play and they were easily falling out of their position-a look underneath showed that both anti-rattle springs were not in the right place and they were not even positioned-(pushed onto the shift shaft)-took apart top cover & rubber, exposed shift leavers-took out loosely lying springs and placed them in their proper positions on the shifters-pressed them onto the shift shaft and then made sure they clipped into the notches/keepers on the shifters-done...all tight now and more accurate shifting with positive detents.

Thanks Rob,