F60L resto NSW Australia

[Jacques Reed]

Hi David,

Wish I could tell you how to un-seize them but I can't. Years ago I tried everything from filling with Penetrene, acetone, and even soaking in kero for a month. Nothing moved. I didn't try brake fluid and acetone together as has been mentioned before as a great penetrant for seized nuts and studs. Perhaps that might work?

I wound up getting them restored by Frank Curcio in Melbourne who specialized in reconditioning those type of shock absorber as used on A Model Fords but are a bit smaller. He took a couple extra ones apart for me so I could have a look. I don't think he is still in business though. To do it again I would do it myself as all he did was heat up the arm at the pivot shaft while using a puller that he fabricated for the job. Once the arm is off, the hardest part, the rest comes apart easily for cleaning.

As per the photos Houdaille shock absorbers are beautifully machined and that is the problem. Once the fluid congeals or goes hard in those tight clearances it effectively locks everything up.

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

There are a few websites that explain Houdaille shock absorbers which makes for interesting reading.

Hopefully I got the ball rolling and someone will be able to add to this.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Hi David,

Beware too that they have a clockwise and anti-clockwise operation so you cannot swap left to right and vice versa should you find some that move.

Cheers,

Further to previous post:

The attachment lugs are stamped either "AC" for anti-clockwise or "CW" for clockwise. See attached photo.

The filling plug should always be on the top too, so if it is at the bottom it probably has been mounted on the wrong side.

Cheers,

[David Nicholson]

Does anyone know if the old style valves (tapered bottom) are sodium filled? I'm having a great deal of trouble removing the old valve guides. I want to cut the bottom off the valve, remove the valve, then drift the guide out from the cam side.....

[Tony Smith]

It's not an uncommon problem, and "back in the day" there were 2 styles of tools designed to attack the problem. Funnily enough, both were recently for sale on Ebay AU (I wasn't the buyer or seller, although I might have placed a bid). Keep an eye out on Ebay US, they do appear there quite frequently.

First, the bridge type. Remove the horseshoe clip holding the valve guide. Lift the valve enough to slip the centre threaded casting over the opened valve. The outer tube is placed over it and spans the valve seat area. Wind the nut, and keep winding, nothing will resist and the whole valve, guide and spring assembly will be drawn out of the block. Flatattack Racing did reproduce this tool for some time, and with his trademark excellent machining, but they have not been available for some years.

And secondly, the punch type. Again with the valve open, slip this under the valve and around the valve stem, and find the biggest hammer you've got and take one last look at your knuckles before you drive the guide into the lifter valley.

[David Nicholson]

Just picked these up!!!! 6 x 12-20 wheels and tyres! I've just got to buy tubes! Do these rims require a rim/tube protector? I was thinking of making a rubber band to protect the tube from chafing!

If anyone is wondering, I want 2 spares!

Truck is going to be military original, but with a Adventure truck tray/roll bars! That's the plan so far!

[David Nicholson]

I,m still considering using bolt cutters on these bottom valve stems. The guides can be drifted out if I do!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi David

Yes you will probably want to use tube flaps to protect the tube. Depending on how the tires were stored you may also have to open them up so that the mounting lip will slide on the rims. Will look for the thread where this was discussed. It's in the Hammond Barn Series.

The problem is if the tires have been stacked they may have closed down at the opening. One of the things I have done is to put the tubes in with the tire laying on the floor and just inflate until the tire opens up to about the width of the rim and let them sit for a day or two. Seems to save on wrestling match.

I've been running 11:00x20s non-directionals on my C60S for 27 years with out problems. The 12:00x20s should give you a little more rubber over drive.

Cheers Phil