Info needed: 1967 M38A1 Lubrication?

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks for both responses....so I will leave ignition off until after replacing panel back onto dash.

PS....I do not have ignition keys.....I do have the dash on/off lever but I also have a green plastic lever in the engine bay next to the starter that all the heavy duty wires go into....its a main power shut off to all electrical in the engine bay...I turn this off along with the dash ignition when not using the jeep.

Regards,

les

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob,

I have more questions if you have the time....

I will be adjusting the carb mixture come Sunday....I know that I cannot turn in the screw hard....but, can you please tell me which way is rich & which way is lean....left turn or right turn....I would just like to know what I am doing when turning the mixture adjustment screw.

Secondly, it appears that I have a 67' CDN2 that has had a few updated modifications by DOD aside from turn signals & seat belts....I apparently have the air filter out of a M151 Mutt. If your familiar with them, what is the plastic spaghetti like material in the top of the filter housing and where can I get it new?....its now a little brittle and I am afraid that pieces will break off and get into the carb.

Regards,

les

[rob love]

The screw is right hand thread and when screwed all the way in stops the flow of fuel. So, looking at it from the side of the Jeep, with the engine at operating temperature, you screw it clockwise (inward) until the Jeep starts to stumble, then start backing out very slowly until you reach the highest RPM. Once you start making it too rich, the RPMs will actually drop slightly.

Ideally, you would have a tachometer hooked up, but with the waterproof ignition that gets a little complicated. There are also timing lights with digital RPM gauges on them, but it is actually getting harder to buy a timing light these days.

It was not a modification to have the M151 type aircleaner...that was standard on the CDN2 and CDN3 Jeeps. I have never heard of the plastic "horsehair" coming apart....leave it alone and you will be fine.

[Les Kovacs]

Wow...quick reply...thanks for the more detailed info as per carb adjustment.

Never heard of plastic "horse hair" filtration media...but, if it does not become too brittle and fall apart....I am not worried. I have however poured kerosene into the top half/cover with the "horsehair" in it...swished the kerosene around for 3-5 min then poured out the mean looking goo....did this twice until what came out was somewhat clean....also cleaned the SOS pad like media in the lower half as well as replace the oil at the bottom and cleaned out the whole housing. Hopefully, kerosene was the proper cleaning fluid to use.

Thanks again,

les

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob....it has come to my attention that I had an important question to ask as per safety but totally forgot over the last two weeks....it is regarding the front original OE hubs. While at a military vehicle show...while I was away from the jeep my wife was talking to an MV collector (he was showing off a British Scorpion of the early 80's and a 40's Willy's jeep)....he mentioned to my wife that I had better replace my front hubs with a Warn or other selectable hub as the OE hub was known to crack and grenade the front axle (happened to him). He was pretty insistent explaining this to my wife at the time. She has since brought it to my attention again and being that safety is paramount with me I though I would ask you for your opinion. Is this a none issue?... or have there in fact been problems?....or this is a problem but most likely due to lack of proper maintenance?

PS...out of the hundreds of pics of jeeps of all ages I have seen on google & other websites I have never seen one with aftermarket selectable hubs....just all OE hubs.

les

[maple_leaf_eh]

I'm not Rob, but I'll jump in.

Yes and no. Locking front hubs were all the thing in the past for civilian pattern CJs. The hubs serve a purpose, but HMV owners typically do not modify service pattern vehicles to suit civilian quirks. We'll put a roll bar on for safety, but not jack up the suspension for clearance. That said, I don't remember the last time I saw even a CJ with locking hubs, so either tastes have changed or technology has gotten better.

[rob love]

Les:

He is likely talking about the axle knuckles grenading, which was applicable to the older knuckles with 4 large ball bearings acting as the U-joint. With a bit of wear, and a full turn, a ball could pop out, and the force of the jeep was now pushing against a locked up knuckle. It usually happens at slower speeds since any full turn over about 18 miles an hour results in a Jeep rolling over.

Good news is that there is a 99% chance your Jeep has the more simple standard Cardan type U-joint. That is to say that, inside that knuckle is a normal universal joint much like your drive shaft. It does not have seals on it like a drive shaft U-joint. Instead the knuckle is packed in grease. In all these years, I have never had to replace a U joint on a CDN2 or CDN3 front axle shaft.

So don't bother with the locking hubs. That said, I did see some of the earlier knuckles find their way onto the Cdn2s. That is where the 1% comes in. There was an overlap for several years between the 52 and 53 Jeeps and the CDN2 and CDN3, so if there would be a problem in the front end, the whole axle or axle shaft could get changed with an earlier assembly or component.

On the earlier Jeeps with the early knuckles, the axles can be changed up to the more modern type, but usually guys do not do that until they have experienced the failure.