How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

The cast parts and gears all polished up.

[Bob Carriere]

...."I’ve ordered new bearings via eBay yesterday". ......

these are the two lower one I assume...... were they visibly pitted..? curious about the rear bottom one which was problematic to match a few years ago. Could you share how it fits and possibly the source.

On the gears....... I took a fine diamond stone and went over the leading point of the teeth one by one to reduce the wear pattern evenly .....cause by crash shifting in its previous life.....sometimes only a few needed some minor dressing....hoping it would help my shifting in the future.

Have you decided on the oil you will use???? I have used synthetic from Lucas and as predicted it tends to leak ever so lightly...... a particular feature of synthetics is the ability to creep into tiny crevices/space. .....but then it is a CMP and they love marking there territory.

Bob C

[Jordan Baker]

I just went by the part numbers and the cross reference numbers Rob Love had dug up. I ended up getting all 5 bearings on eBay. As for the originals. Yes the bottoms ones had rusting and some rust flakes inside them. The upper ones look ok but I figured with it all apart I may as well replace them too.

I haven’t looked that far ahead yet for what oil I’ll use. My Willys MB seems to like the 80/90 transmission hypoid oils.

I compared my gears to some NOS ones on eBay and found mine were looking pretty much the same.

[chris vickery]

If in doubt bead blast the gears which will reduce stress in the steel

[Bob Carriere]

It's the bottom rear bearing.......keep me posted of what that bearing looks like and how well it fits.

Thanks

Bob C

[rob love]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

I haven’t looked that far ahead yet for what oil I’ll use. My Willys MB seems to like the 80/90 transmission hypoid oils.

Not all hypoid oils are the same. The most current spec of hypoid is GL4 edited to add: now GL5) which is reported as harmful to brass. Not a problem for your Chevy crash box, but any transmission with synchro rings may not have a happy ending.

What belongs in those is GL1 or possibly GL3 specification. Tough to find...ask any Dodge Diesel owner with a manual transmission. I ended up using royal purple.....expensive, but cheaper than removing and repairing the transmission.

Bob: I always considered the oil leaks on a chevy quite standard. Many of them here at the museum feature multiple drain pans underneath them.

[Robert Bergeron]

Rob/ Jordan : Gl4 could explain the early demise of the 2 nd gear and it’s brass syncro ring in my GPW transmission a couple of years ago ...

[Lynn Eades]

A friend of mine is just replacing a new jeep trans. with a new jeep trans. (1000km) Reason: Incorrect oil. The Hypoid oil ate the bushes in the cluster.

Jeep has bronze bushes inside the cluster gear (counter or lay shaft) and the reverse idler as well as the synchro (baulk rings) The Dodge (New Process) and Ford 4 speed crash boxes have a bush in the reverse idlers. I assume the G.M. box has bronze bushes in the reverse idler as well.

Also, bead blasting is great for the gears as stated, but!.... Total cleanliness is absolutely imperative, after blasting. It gets everywhere!

On both counts, Beware!

[Wayne Hingley]

Hi Rob: Is this the Royal Purple product you are using? In your research, did you find any other non-EP gear lube options?

http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/p...mission-fluid/