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#1
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So you are selling wheels that have been recast? Or just the casting mold to make our own? I would like to see how this is done with dimensions for the mold. I can't make the show so posting on here would be good for me. I will be needing more road wheels since the few I have that look good are going onto my machine this spring to replace two that flew apart last season. Never can tell how good the old rubber is until you do a road test....
What exactly are you using for the two part epoxy? Do you need to machine the sides once it has hardened or does this shape it perfectly? Post a pic of the finished product?
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Many projects..... Complete- Ford F8 truck Complete-1956 Mk 2/3 Ferret Complete- Bofors 40mm on carriage Complete Reproduction- Vickers, Model 1937 Tank Waiting restoration- 1950 Cambridge carrier, Ford CMP Water truck, 1943 Universal carrier, 1945 Dodge APT truck, Canadian C3 Howitzer, several parts vehicles and a few ideas..... |
#2
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'Solid' worries me. If solid 'hard' the wheels will chip. If flexible (and durable depending on the right compound) then maybe this would work. The other option is to have rubber 'vulcanized' to original wheels which I understand has been done in Australia and perhaps other places.
Still, very interesting I I'd love to hear more. |
#3
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Every once in a while, this topic comes up. I have not yet tried it, but I have heard that shops that re-rubber fork-lift truck wheels can apply a fresh rubber to the steel center you bring them.
Anyone actually done that? Results? Cost? |
#4
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We sent a tired road wheel downtown for vulcanizing. They regularly do the wheels on those massive modern tracked tractors. They took a long time to get it done, and in the end, the estimate of $120 proved to be a little low. It ended up costing us something like $270. While the rubber looked OK, it did not have the taper that a carrier wheel should have, and I think they may have made it a little too large. I'm not sure it would even fit in the suspension.
I ended up getting some really good used wheels that I used, but will try this wheel out on the carrier that we run the most here at the museum and see how it works out. I may have to profile the wheel with a grinder to get a little bit of the taper on the wheel. I would be interested in the tire mold. The forklift places will know which compound will give the best service. |
#5
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I believe the material would be a urethane compound. Urethane has both toughness as well as elasticity.
Rob, perhaps the wheel you have could be chucked in a lathe and taper cut? At any rate, sounds like an expensive proposition.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
#6
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Stew has been using this type of setup for quite some time, with good results.. I am busy making my own setup here in the UK. Good thing with PU is that you can match any shore hardness.
Does Stew know you are selling his wares btw ?
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). |
#7
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Hey Richie
I see you are looking after the old guy Richard and I have talked but I do not have the get up and go to keep doing wheels you also need a machine to remove the old rubber The wheels that I have done are able to take a beating and just like the Ever ready bunny just keep going they have taken high speed for 20 miles at a time both on and off pavement and there has been no flaws ![]() |
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