How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Has it really been since late April that I’ve worked on the truck? I guess so. It’s been a rather busy spring here doing all new gardens at the house. I’ve also been busy making a mini fire truck bed frame racer for a charity event coming up this weekend. Thankfully the build is finished and that project is out of the shop. Now back to CMP’ing.

Today I’ve been working on taking apart my transfer case. So far everything has come apart easily and the insides are very clean. I think I’ll just have to replace some of he bearing cones as a few rollers have some pitting. The bearing cups look good. One question is can I press them out to sandblast the case then press hem back in again? Or would I be better leaving them in and just taping them off?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jordan

Whenever you replace a bearing, be wise, and get a new matching bearing race.

You really do not need to sandblast the inside but if you do you must make sure that all the grits gets washed out which means removing all the cones, identify where they go and it's matching bearing....... same applies to all the shims...keep them sorted by location in a zip lock bag.

When I did mine I replaced all bearings and race and used Speedy Sleeves on the worn yokes with new seals. Once the bare inside was sandblasted I degreaser, acid washed and sealed the castings inside and out with POR 15. Did the same for the tranny and the bell housing. Overkill I know!!!!

GBS should be able to find you all the bearings, race and Speedy Sleeves if not by part number by size....ID...OD.... height.

The joke around the barn is that I took my t case apart and reassembled it seven times before I was happy with all the preload on the bearings....... the seventh time I had taken apart a separate t case just to make sure I had everything in the right order......... runs fine now....... hey what else can you do during the cold Winter months.

Enjoy

GBS

[Bob Carriere]

Consider using your engine stand when working on the tcase...... being able to turn it around and over makes it easier.

[Jordan Baker]

Just ordered all new bearing cups and cones. I should have them sometime next week.

Bob, when you say you used Speedy Sleeves, did they replace the original leather seals? Do you have part numbers? I was checking the shafts and they have a visible worn spot where they would seal on the leather. I presume this is what the speedy sleeves would fix?

As for using the engine stand....I thought about that but my engine is still mounted to it. With the transfer case in my bench I find it handy enough, especially when I drop something it only falls a few inches to the table top.

[Bob Carriere]

The Speedy sleeve is a very thin piece of sheet metal that will slide over the scored area of your yokes and insure that the new neoprene sealing surface is not worn down in the first 5 miles. They include instructions for installation ...usually using red locktite.

You need to measure the exact diam. of the yoke for GBS...... I usually run the yoke on a lathe and with a very fine file polish any raised burrs that may be present.... it leaves you with a clean surface and leaves the missing metal rut exposed. The sleeve is pushed on ONCE with locktite and it will fill the rutted gap....sleeves are only a few thousand thick and provide a slick surface for the seal to rub against. They are expensive but cheaper than having a machinist weld and resurface the yoke to spec.

Good luck!!!!

Do a quick search on SKF speedy sleeves for pictures of the cup used for installing and how the extra is peeled off.

[Jordan Baker]

Ok thanks for the explanation on them. Any part numbers for the modern neoprene seals?

Also what is GBS.

[Grant Bowker]

GBS = General Bearing Service
They are a bearing and industrial supplier in Ottawa (with other Ontario and Quebec branches). Unfortunately for you, their nearest branch to you is in Whitby. http://www.gbs.ca/en/succen.html
Another supplier Bob and I use is Industrial Solutions, also Ottawa and Quebec based http://indsol.ca/en/index.php/en
Hamilton is more industrial than Ottawa so there have to be suitable suppliers down there. Maybe:
http://www.canadianbearings.com/deli...-and-services/ or http://www.appliedcanada.com/products/default.asp
One of the things we like about the 2 Ottawa locations mentioned is that each of them have at least one staff member who has a very good memory for older bearings and a genuine will to solve challenges locating odd bearings for clients. As an example, a couple of years ago GBS was able to locate a (small) supply of the 928 bearings used in 4x4 CMP steering joints. The bearings were in Texas and they were willing to get them in virtually overnight. Unfortunately, the price was beyond what I was willing to pay for bearings to have on hand in case of a future need.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

Bob, when you say you used Speedy Sleeves, did they replace the original leather seals? Do you have part numbers? I was checking the shafts and they have a visible worn spot where they would seal on the leather. I presume this is what the speedy sleeves would fix?

Hello Jordan,

If you go to http://www.skf.com/group/products/se...eve/index.html, one can read everything there is to know about Speedi-Sleeves, Choosing the right size and Installing and Removing SKF Speedi-Sleeve.

HTH,
Hanno

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks all. I’ve got my reading list and will figure out what I’ll use with regards to the speedi sleeves. All of the shafts have a worn grove so I’ll have to do something.

All of the casing parts are now clean ready for PORing tomorrow. They all soaked in the parts cleaner solution, then subjected to some power washing. I then sandblasted everything. After that everything was power washed again to remove the grit residue. Then I soaked them in Marine Clean, then another power washing. After this they were hit with Metal Prep etching solution. Now everything is so clean I’d eat a dry cracker off of them.

Tomorrow my plan is to spray with POR then top coat in the blue primer. I’m thinking I’ll probably do the final Army colour once final assembly is done.

[Bob Carriere]

Nice job.....

Keep in mind that the bearing races/cones will not go in where you have POR....either tape off the bare metal area or scrap the POR with a sharp Exacto blade.

Speedy sleeves go on bare metal with locktite.... any POR will make them almost impossible to fit as the clearances is so tight.

Make sure you wash your brass shims carefully and account for the paper gasket thickness in setting the preload. Each bearing should be able to rotate by hand ...otherwise its too tight. Same for the fully assembled T case it should rotate by hand when fully put together. \

Have lots of paper towels and solvent to repeatedly wash you hands during re assembly.

Can you imagine the poor guys doing this work in North Africa in between sand storms!!!!!! while being shot at!!!!

You should have been a surgeon.

Cheers

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

Stopped off at a bearing shop today.

Myself and the guy behind the counter measured up the seals and shafts and came to the following modern parts. Parts are ordered and I should have them tomorrow morning.

Transfer Case
Modern oil seal part number is SKF 19360 QTY3
Speedi Sleeve is SKF 99193 QTY 3

Bearings as listed in the parts manual.
Timken 332. QTY 6
Timken 339. QTY 5
Timken 342-S. QTY 1
Timken 14274 QTY 2
Timken 14137 QTY 2

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Consider using your engine stand when working on the tcase...... being able to turn it around and over makes it easier.

Hi Jordan


As Bob suggest makes life lot easier.


Transfer on stand.jpg


Really take your time on shimming the gears and follow the manual, if not you may be pulling it because it whines. The problem I had was that my replacement gaskets were not the same thickness as the original gasket.


Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

I just spent sometime power washing most of the transfer case housing parts. They spent a night in some parts cleaner to try and loosen up the gunk. Next up is taking part the de clutch housing. I’m thinking a new seal is in order by the amount of grease and gunk visible on the outside.