How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

Today has been a driveshaft kind of day. I finished pressing out the Spicer U joints on the shop press. I have to say that the shop press has definitely earned its keep in the shop and it’s one of the tools I use a lot.

Everything is off to the blasting cabinet currently. Then I’ll be prepping for the POR treatment.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan


You probably already thought of this or have heard it before. Align all the grease fittings.



An Old Motor Pool Sergeant took one look at my drive shafts and said I'd done them wrong. He went on to explain that all the grease fitting should be in a line on each shaft so as to make greasing easier. Next time I did a drive shaft I paid attention to alignment and darned if he wasn't correct.


Cheers Phil

[David Herbert]

Good tip and so simple to do !

David

[Jordan Baker]

Yes i read that previous post while researching what to do and not do. But thanks for the reminder.

[Jordan Baker]

Today I finished up with the final cleaning of the driveshafts and components. After the usual marine clean and metal prep I then hand painted them in DOM16. This is the Canadian version of the POR15. It is cheaper, UV safe and supposedly be top coated anytime after curing. The downside to me is that it’s only available in gloss black. Even with hand painting it will self level to a mirror finish. Today I took advantage of the very humid weather and after about an hr the DOM16 was just tacky. I then simply sprayed on the SCC2 paint. This will then bond to the DOM16 and be very strong.

Anyway the driveshafts are all painted. I just need to now get the Spricer U joints ordered and get things assembled.

One question, are the “washers” in the caps made from industrial felt? The caps are at the end of splines. None of mine had anything left other then the split metal washer. I’m thinking felt would be good for sealing out the dirt and grime yet retaining the grease.

[Jordan Baker]

Lastly for today my friend Matt was over working on his project with some help from me. Anyway back to he truck, I took advantage of him being over so that I could try and get the transfer case back into the frame. We ended up removing the tool box and spare tire carrier, slid the transfer case under the frame on a dolly. Then using the shop hoist I was able to sling a strap and we lifted the case up and into the frame. In hindsight it would have been much much easier to do this before the cab and box were mounted on the frame. But you only live once and well everything can’t be the easy route. We did manage to get some bolts in place enough to support it without the straps and hoist. However we so far cannot get the two large bolts and spacer washers to line up. They are off about a 1/16” of an inch. I’m thinking I may have to use my porta power to force the case over just that little bit.

Lastly is there supposed to be some kind of a spacer where I’ve circled in he picture?

[Lynn Eades]

Jordan, I think a lot of the spicer seals are made of cork. The join cut has a long overlap as I remember. (remembering is not such a reliable function as it has been)
Are your spacer washers in the right place? If you took them from the lower mount and put them on the top mounts, does it all line up then?