How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

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Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

The transfer case is now all mounted. It proved to be quite the job in getting it all lined up and installed. Now that it’s out of the way I started taking the wheels off. All but one came off. The last one has proven to be incredibly stubborn.

Brake drum issue? See if there's any way to retract the (probably stuck) brake shoes. I've wrestled with your problem more than once. Oh, and don't drop the whole thing on your head seeing as three quarters of it is supported on axle stands (if it was me I'd put the other three wheels back on before going aggressive on the last one).

[Grant Bowker]

I'm not clear which removal is causing trouble.

Wheel from drum/ hub? Confirm someone in past hasn't switched a left side / left hand thread to the right side or vice versa so the threads operate in reverse - tighten when you would expect loosening?

Separating the wheel half sections to remove the tire? Does keeping the old tire matter to you (it looks well weathered...)? Lots of heat on the nuts and a serious impact wrench (but be aware that too much heat can cause pyrolysis - spontaneous, uncontrolled heat/explosion of the tire)? Chainsaw the tire off the rim and then fight the wire beads off the individual rim sections?

Drum/hub from axle? Maybe undo the lower adjusters and let them move into the drum and relax the shoes? BFH? Check for a seized parking brake cable?

[Jordan Baker]

Just trying to get the wheel rim off of the drum. Im not quite at the stage of taking the drums off.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Grant Bowker

Chainsaw the tire off the rim

That's a thing???? I've considered a sawsall but a chainsaw? Would it cut through the rubber or just buck back into your face??? Tell me it works and I'll give it a go. My tire guy doesn't want to talk to me any more about CMP tires.

[Grant Bowker]

Some of the old/original tires are almost woodlike in texture....
Yes, I've honestly done it. Obviously, ensure the tire is fully deflated first. Then with some care (as for every use of chainsaw) with the saw bar at about 45 degree angle from the tire and rim lying on the ground gently work your way around the tire cutting just deeply enough to cut the carcass, no need to go through the tube unless you want to. I believe it is easier and safer to do a shallow cut for control and a second pass if needed rather than plunging deeply and risking binding. (It has never happened and I don't want to give it a chance to happen.) Leave enough clearance to the rim for your comfort, no need to ruin chains trying to cut the rim. Flip over and repeat to free the other side. Bob Carriere may have photos of the process under way. It's easier to separate the rim halves before cutting the bead of the tire off the rim but it can be done with the rim assembled (except for runflats where the bead lock gets in the way). I tend to use an angle grinder and cut-off wheel to cut the steel bead wires, Rob Clarke prefers to use a cold chisel - personal preference, they both work.
I haven't seen any tires with steel plies on CMP rims but I suppose it is possible and the chainsaw method is not suitable for these tires, check with care before starting work. I've found the process to work beautifully on the original multiple cotton/rayon/whatever ply tires (i.e. 10 ply rather than 10 ply rated), not sure if it is because of the plies or the aging of the rubber, but also used it on newer (ply rated) tires without issue.
I leave it to you to decide if I'm a fool who should have killed myself through bad technique or if this technique suits you.

[Jordan Baker]

Finally after a lot of work the nuts are all off. A lot of heat from the torch was used and things slowly loosened up with an impact gun.

[David Dunlop]

Good job, Jordan. Did you pour yourself a tall cold one when you were done?

David

[Jordan Baker]

So the rims are out. My tire guy got all of the rims out of the tires last night in about 20min using a heavy truck mobile tire service truck. Apparently having the rights tools did wonders and saved a whole heck of a lot of work. So this morning I loaded up my Jeep with a pile of parts and dropped them off at the sandblasters. 2hrs later he calls to say everything is done. This afternoon I did the usual paint prep stuff and sprayed on some gloss DOM16 (Cnd equivalent to POR).

[Matthew P]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

That's a thing???? I've considered a sawsall but a chainsaw? Would it cut through the rubber or just buck back into your face??? Tell me it works and I'll give it a go. My tire guy doesn't want to talk to me any more about CMP tires.

Can't say I've heard of chainsaw used for this before either. But it makes sense. The wider kerf created by the chain instead of using a narrow blade probably makes it easier. Just don't do it in of doors. Watched a guy do some cutting in his basement with one. Filled the house with blue smoke

Matt

[Jordan Baker]

I’ve got a 7/8 BSF tap and die to clean up the stud and nut threads in he rims once everything is painted.

[David Herbert]

Don't Canadian wheels have UNC (then ANC) threads ? It is quite possible that you have a mixture depending on the origin of the truck.

David

[Mike K]

I removed the RF tyres off the CS8 rims with the help of a chainsaw. It cut through the tough old heavy thick rubber with ease. Cut a V wedge and chisel through the bead cable wire