My CMP restoration

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Jon Bradshaw

Still looking for the oil seal numbers if anyone has them?

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

(From the "Modern Part numbers for CMP's" thread)
Stopped off at a bearing shop today.

Myself and the guy behind the counter measured up the seals and shafts and came to the following modern parts. Parts are ordered and I should have them tomorrow morning.

Transfer Case
Modern oil seal part number is SKF 19360 QTY3
Speedi Sleeve is SKF 99193 QTY 3

Bearings as listed in the parts manual.
Timken 332. QTY 6
Timken 339. QTY 5
Timken 342-S. QTY 1
Timken 14274 QTY 2
Timken 14137 QTY 2

That number is good for the generic seal size. For example, if you want to go for traditional leather seals instead of modern neoprene, then the Chicago Rawhide part number is CR 19360.

The other seal used on the transfer case is for the shift shaft CR 5510 (or SKF).

[Jon Bradshaw]

I saw that thread after I posted last night. I took the seals off today and they are all the same size. I am looking at the paper gaskets in behind them and will likely trace and cut them out of gasket paper. Strange only one of them had a steel gasket plate the other two just had paper. Will make tracing very easy....
The second strange thing about them was that the three plates were all held on by different sized bolts. 13mm, 14mm and 15mm I thought this was strange but maybe it is like that on all of them?

[rob love]

Metric bolts on a CMP transfer case? That does not sound right.


The steel shim is likely for adjustment of the shaft/bearing end play. That will change if you use a different thickness of paper gasket, or use RTV. You may find the steel shims only on one end of a shaft.

[Gordons]

I think someone replaced the AF standard bolts with english bolts at some point in time, English BSA or Whitworth, threads are standard but the head of the bolt dia is English, probably why you have to use metric wrench or socket on the head

[Jon Bradshaw]

The extra bits up front were me making it drivable for the trip out there. I took the seat off before I thought to take a pic. The seats look pretty good, I will take a pic once they are in the cab.
Well as I said in a previous post I have had some new fuel tanks made out of stainless steel, the bill was much more than I had planned on.... Safe to say I won't ever do that again. They are amazingly well done but far too much money to ever buy again. No pics as they are exactly the same as every other CMP fuel tank....
The filter tops have been completed, they were not cheap either but since there was no good option I am OK with that. They need some final finish grinding and rounding of the edges but they fit and I had them put threaded fittings on them so they could be attached properly to the hoses and pumps.
The truck and all its parts went out to a friends acreage to get a good week of work done to them, the weather has been cold but the sandblaster (me) still works well outside in the cold. I am able to put it inside a heated garage at night and paint, letting it dry overnight. The frame and lower cab were first and now I have started on the water tank. Another day of blasting the rest of the paint and rust will be gone and the entire thing will be primer red.

[Jon Bradshaw]

Here are the markings that were on my water tank before they were blasted off today. As I went down through the layers more became visible. Some were over painted by others.
Pic 1- I had thought was a 46 was actually a 47. Red background with numbers and gold and blue over painted could not tell which layer was on top or if they were supposed to be together.
Pic 2 and 3- the central command badge from the late 40/early 50's was over a red rectangle which was over a cream colored/ red circle that was too far gone to recognize.
Pic 4 was of the square? with a smaller red square on the bottom right of it.
Pic 5 is the entire view to give reference.
The olive green was the top layer covering everything,
Then a darker green layer over everything,
Then the markings layer with as I said some on top of older ones.
Last layer was a dark green with no primer under that.

[rob love]

It would appear to have had a little bit of time in the artillery. There should have been a letter and a number over the blue box with the red square in the bottom corner, which denotes the second battery.

[Wayne Hingley]

Hi Jon. I saw this instruction plate in a second hand store. Is it appropriate for your setup? If you want it let me know, and I’ll get it for you. Price can be seen in the photo.