Info needed: Building a repro LRDG 1940 Chev.

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Tony

It maybe but would allow me to use a standard C15a rear axle...same 70 1/2 in. and we plan to extend the fenders.....

According to some preliminary measurements and referenced to CMP books the track of the MCP Chev truck is about 66 to 67 inches in the front and 2 to 3 inches narrower at the rear axle....... which I consider getting close......
I think I can live with that....

I have only seen the round tube axles on heavier trucks..... then there is the issue of spring perch and spring pads.....

...another possibility is that the round tube axle may have interchangeable parts such as the drum/hub assembly with the civilian models...... I know that the rear axle the whole brake wheel assembly can be removed and replaced with civilian dual wheel...drum an all fits..... a very popular conversion on trucks in CANADA post war.

Once I have my hot little hands on the parts I can see what fits or not...

....assuming the snow will eventually melt!!!!!!

PS.... there are no listing of a round tube axle in the GM Illustrated cataloge of MAJOR ASSEMBLIES.......dated august 1944.....?

[Bob Carriere]

...I now know that the tubular front axle is for Ford Ambulance and what it looks like ....some parts do interchange with CMPs and could no doubt be made to fit on a LRDG but much stronger construction and is RHD.

Still Keeping a sharp eye open for other related stuff.

Bob C

[Mike K]

This is a interesting pic. What size are the wheels on this 41 model ?

53257575_2367705179920605_6432069312260866048_o.jpg

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Tony

Very hard to tell but I would say a CMP rim with some adapter to bolt on to the truck's original bolt pattern.

It would seem that using c15 4x2 axles would be the easiest .....but alas....they are very hard to find.

One option is to have wheels made using a brand new rims and a flat centre piece drilled for the GM 10 holes.....quick fast and$400 each

Second option would be to fabricate a flat adapter from 3/8 steel plate that will bolt to the original GM 10 bolts leaving room for the second set of 8 holes for the CMP pattern .Having available CMP rim much cheaper.

Replace the front beam axles with a Ford tubular front axle which will take regular CMP rims......and a regular C15a rear axle again compatible to the CMP rim. Cheaper rims are avialable any 900x16 would fit.... and a lot sturdier construction using parts we are familiar with.

With the above the rear axle would be slightly offset to the right but not critical I hope.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Bob, I’m sure the sturdy Ford front axle would not mind bearing the Chevrolet ;-)

But bear in mind that that axle was designed to replace a driven front axle, so the chassis sits higher. It is a straight tube and not a dropped I-beam. So on a 4x2 Chev the front would be raised higher than the rear. Or are planning on building a “Gasser” hot rod?

When the snow melts I would go out with a tape measure and measure up all the various axles you have. And flip out the parts lists. Maybe some brake drums or entire spindles can be swapped. Did you ask Rick about how his truck was converted? It seems the French guy cracked the code on the wheel-drum combination.

If the conversion is too complicated, I would opt for an 8-bolt CMP rim and drum combination, it will look the part. Only the real anoraks will note you would not be using 10-bolt rims. But those guys will find other things to nitpick on your repro! Just build the truck you’re dreaming of, I’m sure it will be awesome.

HTH,
Hanno

[Bob Carriere]

That is one of the many issues ..... most of which I could address or work around them BUT..... everything is covered with that cold hard stuff for at least another 6 weeks.......

So far the wheels can be converted to a "look a like" by welding a 3/8 flat piece of steel to the back side of a current 16 in. CMP wheel..... then drill out the heart at 4.75 in and the necessary 10 bolt holes........

But the front axle track is much wider than the dual wheel rear axle when only one tire is used...... a solid steel or aluminum spacer????

We will get it done..............

[Bob Phillips]

Just a couple of comments..
the photo referenced by Tony is exactly the same as what I have with one difference, if you look closely at the far wheel you can see that there is an extra support from the bottom of the axle out to support the bottom of an extended king pin. This means 3 points of support for the king pin. The one I parted with is like the photo. I had it running in a 15cwt for a couple of years. The one I have left is the same but without the bottom support. Thed axle is a hollow tube. It would be very easy to cut and weld it wider or narrower as required. I also have access to some 2- 3 ton commercial Ford rear axles if that would be of any help. Changing track width with spacers is a common soluition also, I had 2x M139 bridge trucks (5 ton) that had heavy spacers on the front axle each adding about3 inches to the width of the tires. ( still have some if you have a 5 ton)
BP