How To: Ford CMP "Blitz" miscellany

[m606paz]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

This couldn’t have happened without the internet!

I'm glad that the manual I shared with you is very helpful!
If anyone has the Late Ford Fat Drivers Manual to share, I will be very grateful. Due to the economic crisis that my country is going through, at this time purchases abroad are prohibited. My Paypal account is blocked and I could not pay a penny for a manual or spare part.

Thanks in advance!

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by m606paz

I'm glad that the manual I shared with you is very helpful!
If anyone has the Late Ford Fat Drivers Manual to share, I will be very grateful. Due to the economic crisis that my country is going through, at this time purchases abroad are prohibited. My Paypal account is blocked and I could not pay a penny for a manual or spare part.

Thanks in advance!

Mariano, place a separate wanted ad for a Ford FGT drivers manual, that way you will get better exposure of your question. I have not seen one, but you never know what turns up - like we have seen with your assembly manual!

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by m606paz

I'm glad that the manual I shared with you is very helpful!
If anyone has the Late Ford Fat Drivers Manual to share, I will be very grateful. Due to the economic crisis that my country is going through, at this time purchases abroad are prohibited. My Paypal account is blocked and I could not pay a penny for a manual or spare part.

Thanks in advance!

Hi Mariano,

Just want to thank you personally too. As Keith and Hanno said it is amazing the power of the internet. Who would have thought of the route the information would have to travel to get to me in Australia.
Sorry to hear your country is going through such tough economic times and the restrictions it places on you. I live in hope that in the not too distant future things will return to normal in the world.

All the best,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Just finished shortening the speedometer cable for my F-15A.
I am reasonably happy with the results and learnt a lot along the way.

Things to consider if you get one made up:

What type of tang tip is used at the transfer case end? With or without a shoulder?
Without a shoulder the tip goes 8 mm further into the driven gear and, if not allowed for, will result in 8 mm less engagement at the speedometer end. As I used a tip without a shoulder, the ferrule to tip distance was 24mm, but if I had used a shouldered tip the distance would have been 16 mm.
I did, however, allow 2 mm end clearance on the shaft at the speedometer drive to prevent the shaft end pressing on it and causing drag.

I found out that on the small transfer case ferrule on a 0.25" casing the shouldered tip could rub at the top of the ferrule so I am guessing the shouldered type was used on the larger 0.45" casing with the larger ferrule.

Note: Since posting this, I noticed the tip was contacting the casing- and not the ferrule, so on that basis after I removed the broken casing it looks OK to use a tip with a shoulder on the small transfer case ferrules as long as the casing is not inserted all the way into it. About where I put the mark would still allow for clearance and adequate grip on the casing.

Besides the speedometer end nuts being different between a Ford Commercial and a round Military Style speedometer, the ferrules are also different.
A Ford has a thinner flange, about 0.5mm, whereas a round gauge has a thicker one, 2 mm. This was apparent when I screwed the nut all the way home on the Ford ferrule that I used and it was still loose on the gauge. I cut off the flange from the round gauge ferrule, as I could not remove it anyway, and used it as a spacer.

The distance the shaft extends past the ferrule at the speedometer is also different. 15 mm for a round gauge and 8 mm for a Ford.

I used JB Weld to attach the tang tip. I didn't want to try to re-stake it and possibly have it way off centre or split the tip. Will see how it works out. I set it up in Vee blocks to keep it concentric with the shaft while the epoxy set. It seems a strong bond but I don't want to over stress it testing it. If it doesn't work out at least I have enough good info to get one made up.

Hope this is of some interest.

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

While sorting out the speedometer cable length and route I thought it would be a good time to sort out the handbrake lever bracket.

The parts manual shows washers *C351399S, 0.40" ID x 0.18 thick between the sector and the transmission bracket. I discovered a long time back that these washers move the arm further outboard, and in doing so moves the handbrake rod away from the transmission crossmember where it passes through it.

I used a pack of about 4 washers at each bolt to achieve this but it was a right pain to get everything lined up and not drop any of them on the deck.

So instead, I just made a spacer out of 1/4" flat bar as shown. It is a lot easier to handle and gives better support to the sector. Sometime you just have to deviate from original to make things work better.

As a matter of interest I've had three of these handbrake assemblies and all three were missing the spacer washers. Just shows some of the many small bits that goes missing over the years.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Decided to do something about a part I have been tripping over in the shed for the past year.

I noticed the extinguisher bracket had been bent at some stage from a hit to the left side of it. The extinguisher was contacting the left side of the bracket but clear on the right. Despite having a 12 ton shop press I could find no way to access the bracket to press it straight so I resorted to threaded rod again.

As per photo, I was able to push the left side back into alignment and improve the curvature of the rear support.

Now I just have to wait until I can travel a reasonable distance again to fabricate the retaining band and latch mechanism. The nearest steel merchant is 10 km away but we are restricted to only essential travel within a 5 km radius.

A fellow MLU member sent me photos months ago of an original retaining band with some measurements, Thanks David. I have been drawing it up the last couple of days. Looks fairly straightforward, although the latch mechanism is a steel pressing which will have to be replicated without using a complex die.

Of interest is the way the anti-chafe material is secured to the back of the bracket. It looks like brass brake lining type rivets were used. I am wondering what material was used to prevent it chafing?

I thought maybe 3" fire hose was used. That has been used for years on everything from boat trailers to delivery trucks for that purpose. The band is 3" wide too so it would fit nicely and the rivet heads could be applied from the inside of the hose to prevent metal to metal contact with the extinguisher. Just a thought anyway, and may do that in lieu of any other information forthcoming.

Hope this is of some interest.

Cheers,