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  #1  
Old 14-08-20, 01:23
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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The pressed dimple is actually in a smaller part a bit less than 1-3/4" diameter that gets soldered into a depression in the can top. Make yourself a hardwood form and tap, tap, tap with a light (I used 8 oz.) ball pein hammer. The seam up the side is just two 180 degree folds brought down on each other with a grooving tool (and maybe soldered for better sealing). The rolling of the can body - well, small slip rolls are getting cheaper or you could do a series of small bends on a brake as some of the originals look like they were done that way (if spaced at 1" each bend would be a bit less than 20 degrees, if spaced at 1/2" they'd be less than 10 degrees). The part I need to experiment with is the top and bottom. The depression in the top to receive the part with the dome is easy, a depression in a plate or hardwood and press in the depression (only as deep as the thickness of the sheet metal) with a close to size washer (can adjust sizing of the depression a little to suit the available washer or turn down an oversize washer). The reinforcement for the threaded outlet in the base appears to be spot welded and solder sealed in place. I've done the experiments to be confident the parts described can be made by a stubborn idiot. I haven't figured a plan yet to do the folded edges on the top and bottom. They need to be at least close to truly round to give the can an acceptable shape and the folds accurate to hold the can body. The folds aren't large and as a result a bit more care is needed. More thought and trials are in order. I'm pretty sure the straps/legs were spot welded to the body before top/bottom were added.
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Old 14-08-20, 01:47
Mike Cecil Mike Cecil is offline
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The top and bottom joins are rolled edges - done with a set of two shaped rollers in a top & bottom seamer that clamps the top and bottom in place against the rolled edges of the body. First stroke rolls the body edge over the top of the top (or bottom depending which way up it is), the second stroke flattens it against the side of the clamping plate at top. Each end is done individually.

The top and bottom pressings are round with a depressed edge all round.

The body is a rectangle of sheet steel with the points notched, ie cut at an angle, so that they don't catch or foul the edge roller when rolling the top & bottom edges.

Same manufacturing technique as making the great Aussie 'Billy' can, and I've made plenty of them during my senior school and university breaks. Of course, that is with the right machinery for the job, but if only making one or two, Grant's methodology and tooling sounds fine.

Mike
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  #3  
Old 14-08-20, 10:04
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Excellent info, guys! I have moved this thread over to the restoration forum.

Who's going to have a run of these cans made? I am good for one, I'm sure there are many others in need as these tanks seem to be missing most of the time.
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Old 23-02-21, 19:53
m606paz m606paz is offline
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Hi Boys!
All production Chevrolet CMP have this overflow tank?
Regards
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Mariano Paz
Buenos Aires, ARGENTINA

1944 Ariel W/NG
1945 FGT FAT
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  #5  
Old 24-04-22, 21:22
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m606paz View Post
Hi Boys!
All production Chevrolet CMP have this overflow tank?
Regards
Hi Mariano, yes they all had an overflow tank. Cab 13s , at least.
Earlier ones had the tank on the left front fender, later ones had them fitted under the mudguard.
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  #6  
Old 24-04-22, 21:25
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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From https://www.prinstruckshop.nl/a-5018...overflow-tank/

Quote:
Original Style Radiator Overflow Tank 1941-54
Part Number: 41-6416
€ 139,95

An original style radiator overflow tank used on the early pickups. Complete with both early(41-46) and late(47-54) decals, hoses, hardware and instructions.

A Genuine GM Restoration Part.

188ec20ce39ccf7b3633db2557be42ee3d41ea69.jpg 21c548a20d329822c3544b85316bc1effebbc8a7.jpg
(No connection to the seller)
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  #7  
Old 25-04-22, 00:22
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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My impression is that although the style of construction is very similar to the Chevrolet CMP condenser can, the reproductions are taller in relation to their diameter than the CMP can. I would love to be proven wrong because as I see it, there's a fair bit of work involved to make a functioning close mock-up. The originals were made with a multi-fold roll-formed lock seam around top and bottom (like tin cans) that I can't reproduce - I would be simplifying the fold structure.
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