How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration - Page 30

Jordan Baker · #**871** 22-08-20, 04:43

Phil. When I got home my wife said she could hear the truck long before I made the turn onto our street. I also notice people will turn and look about 60 yards away so that sound can carrry some distance.

Back on Canada Day when I lost the fan belt, that’s when I realized something was up with how quiet it got. Then the temp gauge started climbing.

With yesterday’s great drive, the temp never went above 185-190on the gauge and the oil pressure was right at 10psi.

As for the correct combination of pulley size. There is a multi page Service Bulletin on that topic. Even during the war there were a lot of different configurations.

Jordan Baker · #**872** 23-08-20, 05:26

The canvas covers for two large stowage bins are finished and have been installed. The local canvas place stitched on my straps for me without hassle.

I’m really enjoying how this truck is turning out.

Jordan Baker · #**873** 27-08-20, 22:03

NOS shifter plate installed. It’s almost too nice to use.

Jordan Baker · #**874** 28-08-20, 03:20

I also installed the canvas hip ring cover. I put in some wooden strips for the stiffeners. I’ve got to make the metal retaining strip that goes up on the roof. Not too sure how I’ll bend it lengthwise but I’m sure I’ll figure it out.

Lastly I’m trying to find the proper maximum allowable weight for the truck. The original is from a C60. I may just go with a standard 15cwt truck.

Bob Carriere · #**875** 29-08-20, 21:23

....is it easier to double clutch now????

.....and did you break down and get yourself a modern sewing machine??? .....is it very reliable????

Jordan Baker · #**876** 29-08-20, 21:33

Thanks Bob

I learned to double clutch years ago and it’s always stuck with me. I doubt the boot will make a difference. Lol

Yes I just picked it up yesterday. This was my first piece I made on it and it went very well. I had to turn the motor speed down as how the factory set it up I was going to loose some fingers. This is a true industrial production machine made for heavy duty canvas and such.

Jordan Baker · #**877** 01-09-20, 23:05

In my spare moments I had today, I made up some stencils to match the original markings that I found on the NOS canvas. I also used the part number as found in the parts manual.

I’m quite happy how this little detail came out and looks.

Harry Moon · #**878** 02-09-20, 05:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

I also installed the canvas hip ring cover. I put in some wooden strips for the stiffeners. I’ve got to make the metal retaining strip that goes up on the roof. Not too sure how I’ll bend it lengthwise but I’m sure I’ll figure it out.

Lastly I’m trying to find the proper maximum allowable weight for the truck. The original is from a C60. I may just go with a standard 15cwt truck.

My Wire5 said 10,000

Jordan Baker · #**879** 03-09-20, 03:00

Thanks Harry

Finally finished up the two canvas shifter boots for the cab. I used the proper government black snaps from DOT.

Jordan Baker · #**880** 08-09-20, 21:19

Another round of canvas. This time the windshield flaps that join to the side curtains.

Jordan Baker · #**881** 10-09-20, 17:16

One of the harder to find accessories for a Wireless truck. The Charging Board NoC5. I’m very glad I bought this years ago when I first got the truck. The metal mount is just speculation as I do not have any clear pictures of it for the Wire3 layout. I can’t wait to get it all wired up

Robert Bergeron · #**882** 11-09-20, 03:51

Truly a fantastic job Jordan ! I concur with Harry on the max allowable .

Jordan Baker · #**883** 12-09-20, 04:00

Thanks Robert. I’m having fun “tricking out” this truck. There is so much stuff one can add and research about on these trucks.

After some good corespondence with David Dunlop I made up the canvas speaking tube. It’s made from double layered canvas with a double layered canvas ends. I then put Lift The Dot fasteners on the cab end. The metal frame for the cab opening has the corresponding studs. I’m quite happy with the sewing machine. It sewed through the 6 layers without any issues. I feel what we came up with is a very good representation of the original.

David Dunlop · #**884** 12-09-20, 04:23

That looks very smart, Jordan, and makes a lot more sense for the deployable WIRE-3 Box than the machine screws and related hardware used with the fixed WIRE-5 Box and other other similar vehicles. Having to unfasten all that hardware and keep track of it would have been a crew nightmare when deploying the box otherwise,

David

CWO (ret) Gilles Aubé · #**885** 12-09-20, 17:50

At 3BAM in Montréal we have a similar set-up of the tunnel, but we need to block it when it is cool with rags.
We used Velcro to secure it and it is always broken and we had to repair it many times.
Using dot fasteners like you did could permit us to make a door to replace the rags.
Thanks for the nice pictures and great ideas.
Gilles

Jordan Baker · #**886** 12-09-20, 19:27

Thanks for the feedback.

Gilles, the DOT studs are period ones that accept a machine screw. So I’ve got it setup with machine screws visible on the outside of the cab wall. They thread in via the frames and wall skin. Then the DOzt stud screws onto the screws. Sadly you cannot get this style anymore. They do make a style of stud that has a threaded stud. It wold work, you’d just have nuts on the outside of the truck.

Jordan Baker · #**887** 17-09-20, 01:45

Today I fitted out the rear interior light with a modern LED puck light. It fit perfectly into the wooden housing and gives off a lot of light with a nice period warmth. The best part is that since LED’s run off of DC power I didn’t need the AC converter that it came with. It will also be hooked up t the charging panel and run for the 12v batteries in the back.

The two pictures taken in the back are with the canvas fully down. No flash was used on the camera.

David Dunlop · #**888** 17-09-20, 02:50

The lighting looks really good, Jordan, and has the extra benefit of a nice low amperage draw on the batteries!

David

Jordan Baker · #**889** 17-09-20, 02:53

My thoughts exactly David. Originality is great but sometimes there is a place for modern technology. Especially when you cannot tell when installed.

Jordan Baker · #**890** 19-09-20, 04:41

Some more pictures of the LED light install into the dome light.

Jordan Baker · #**891** 22-09-20, 03:23

I mounted up the two lights to the canopy frame today. I also made up the wiring loom that connects both lights to the charging panel. Next up I’ll be securing the loom into the canopy frame.

David Dunlop · #**892** 22-09-20, 04:15

Hi Jordan.

How are the interior lamp assemblies mounted? I assume a bracket of some sort fits between the wooden body of the lamp and whatever structure the lamp is installed on.

If I remember the look of the lamps, they seemed to have a pair of large holes in the body, on the back and one of the sides, that appeared to permit two possible entry points for the power feed line, so there may have been more than one option/application for the installation of these lamps.

David

Jordan Baker · #**893** 22-09-20, 05:05

David.

I just realized I didn’t take a picture of the mounts I made up. Basically it’s 2”x 1/8” thick flat stock. Ends are bent 90deg on both ends. This fits across the width of the wooden body. Two woods screws on both bent ends screw into the lamp. This bracket would get bolted to the roof sheet metal then the lamp inserted and the wood screws screwed in. In my case I needed to make another piece that fit over the canopy tubing. I made up a stamping die and pressed some out in the shop press. The top stamped piece fits around the canopy tube and then two bolts are used to secure the top piece to the lamp bracket.

As for the lamp, yes there are few different holes in it.

The red circle is for the power in wire. It goes directly to the push/pull switch. It has a quick connect GM connection.

The green arrow is where the push pull switch mounts.

The blue circle is a socket accessible only from the outside of the lamp. It gets wired to the switch. I believe it was used to fit the plug from a trouble light or provide remote power to another lamp or some other accessory. I’m not sure if it should always be live or only live when the light is on.

The yellow arrow is the lamp socket.

The red arrow is a screw that holds the tinned metal reflector in place. It goes right through the wooded body and has a double nut on the backside. This also acts as the hookup for the ground to complete the electrical circuit.

Jordan Baker · #**894** 23-09-20, 03:07

Here are the detail pictures of the setup I made for the lights. I still have to secure the wiring loom.

David Dunlop · #**895** 23-09-20, 05:48

As always, Jordan, beautiful detailing. Your lovely wife is going to have all the creature comforts back there the next time you are out for a night drive and you have to replace another belt!

It must have been interesting dealing with interior lighting in that WIRE-3 box at night, as getting a canvas cover light tight must have been a challenge. In the WIRE-5, the two lamps ran along the longitudinal centreline of the box roof, with one lamp over the Operators seat and the other just behind the Cypher Clerk. Both were independently switched and a pair of cutout switches at the rear door of the box and in the Charging Cupboard killed the interior lighting if either of those doors were opened. I am guessing your WIRE-3 lamps operate the same way, minus the cutout switches.

David

Jordan Baker · #**896** 28-09-20, 05:53

A little bit more progress has been made on the wiring hookups for the Wire3 box. I’ve been working on making up the various wires that connect to the Charging Board. Today’s task was to make up the wire that is connected from the Chorehorse to the board. I pulled the modern wire through the metal braided loom. I’m not sure if the original had this but I figured it would. I also hooked up the wires for the interior lamps. That wire is a single one with the return/ground via the braided shielding. Once I had everything hooked up I figured I’d do a test. Out came the jumper cables to connect the 12v battery to the Battery No1 terminals. I then hooked up my homemade tester (red led bulb) to the 12v Output terminals. Everything worked as it should. I love the fact there is no modern electronics in this setup. Just a bunch of manual switches and hard connections.

I did up a short video to show all this.

https://youtu.be/UCiB2FMnhSc

Chris Suslowicz · #**897** 28-09-20, 13:14

Most (if not all) of the charging switchboard wiring is single core, rubber insulated (and labelled with the actual cable ID). Connector, Single, No.24A-F rings a faint bell, and the actual make-up will be listed in the WS19 parts EMER, FZ256-3 (for the Canadian Mk.3 set). I can't remember if the actual cable purpose is listed anywhere - possibly on the installation print - though.

I have a switchboard and a selection of the cabling, one of these days I'll have to see how it fits together and if there are any surplus cables (it was bought piecemeal, over a period).

Chris.

Jordan Baker · #**898** 28-09-20, 23:36

Working on making up some new Battens Terminals for the truck.

Jordan Baker · #**899** 12-11-20, 01:41

Today I made time to take the truck to the local Cenotaph and I timed it to coincide with the Lancaster Bomber flying by.

https://youtu.be/vl7-08MOBjE

Bruce Parker (RIP) · #**900** 12-11-20, 02:20

Well done Jordan.

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