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#1
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...have you seen the rotisserie they were using in England to spin around a Sherman......they aligned and joined two halves discarded from a firing range.
Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#2
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Getting some interest on a FB conversation with suggestions, photos and in a day or so, pictures of the US military rotisserie.
__________________
Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#3
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The Sherman rotisserie that was used by the IoW museum was actually borrowed from the guy that made it for another Sherman project in the UK. He posts on MLU so can make it public himself but I saw it in use and it transformed doing major work like replacing sponson plates (the horizontal plate directly above the track). A bare Sherman hull only weighs about ten tons but you certainly don't want it rolling over by itself when you are welding it so securing it after each movement is vital.
David |
#4
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What you need is a proper jig that will support the cars weight as panels are removed and replaced (or brace the car with much angle iron to prevent sagging/hogging ) if you can mount said jig (that may have to be purpose built as a one off) on a rotisserie all the better. I just cannot see a rotisserie by itself being much use beyond making painting easier.
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#5
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Someone else's project but noted as a caution of the simplicity of the construction.
__________________
Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#6
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...... BUT not so cheap as to create a safety hazard......
I can stand under the wheel well of the 2B1 for weldidng and griding and feel absolutely safe........ but you need ear plugs as the really emplifies the sound.....than flip it 100 degrees to get access to the other side of the fender at waist level........ I wish I had the rotisserie when I re did the rusted frame of my car float when we used to flip it over with the bucket of the tractor many times........ For a Mutt a 2 inch square tubing with 3mm ( 1/8 +-) wall thickness would be sufficient. mine could handle a full Jeep frame body and all...... Have yet to use it for sand blasting and/or painting as it would require tarps to cover the mechanism of both swiveling ends. If someone supplies the steer I will BBQ it free including the charcoal and the 5 gal bucket of BBQ sauce and a new cotton floor mop for basting .......for a free meal.....Hell I will also do the beer!!!!!!
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#7
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..... consider using the axle attachment points under the MUTT.... strudy and free up room for working onthe pintle area.
On the 2B1 cargo box it had NO easy attchment point front or rear..... so I cut the front 1/3 of a rusted CMP frame and fabricated attchments points welded to the rear section....... the attchment were thenbolted to the rotisserie. I lifted the whole 2B1 box with the tractor and dropped / installed the cargo box to the CMP frame using homemade 1/2 in. U bolts like the truck had when it left the factory....very ridgid.... I have removed some of the floor section and replaced with new steel....no sagging whatsoever and solid enough to hammer on the beast. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#8
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But, are you volunteering to stand there all day cranking on the gearbox? Or are you already planning to modify it to Mk1a spec, with motor drive? |
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