Wireless Set No. 52 Canadian - Project

[David Dunlop]

I have started to take a look at this little CONNECTORS Cable, and for the size of it, it is proving quite challenging.

For starters, there are two HT Electrical Wire specs lurking out there: 7mm and 5/16-inch. Convert those to decimal inch and you get 0.2755 and 0.312 inch respectively.

The Plug at one end of the CONNECTORS is supposed to have a bore of 0.295 inch diameter and the LUG at the other end an 11/32-inch bore which equates to 0.343 inch.

As you can see, one cable will be a sloppy fit and the other will not fit one of the terminal ends at all. Interesting.

So, does anyone possibly have one of these CONNECTORS sitting unneeded in a corner of the workshop somewhere, I can purchase?

Another small wrinkle appears to be that early production of this CONNECTORS used a shorter Plug than later production, but either will work between the Sender and the Coil, Aerial Tuning Assembly.

David

[Chris Suslowicz]

Er, I think you're mis-reading the description: there is no mention of the bore diameter in the plug (which is the standard 'F' rod simulator used on wire aerials and the 34-ft mast (etc.) Aerial Feeder No.9 that mates with the aerial base.

The description lists the outside diameter and length of the nickel-plated brass plug, and the length of the knurled portion. Nothing about the internal bore for the core of the connecting cable.

The wire aerials had the end simply inserted and soldered; Aerial feeder No.9 had the central hole tapped for a (2BA?) screw to take a tag and lock washer, and other cables had a plain central hole cross-drilled and tapped for a grub screw.

The lug on the other end would be soldered and then either crimped around the cable jacket, or sleeved/whipped with twine for a suitable fit.

Best regards,
Chris.

[David Dunlop]

Hello Chris.

I hope you are not back on call again this week.

Here are the specs on the 'new improved' PLUGS taken from the Issue 2, 1 July 1948 Parts List. Note the longer overall length and knurled length.

I suspect the earlier version of the PLUGS may have resulted in too many Operators adopting a 'Mains Plug' approach to removing the Connector from the Sender Socket, simply giving the wire a good yank and thereby shortening its life expectancy.

I will post a photo of the LUGS in a moment.

David

[David Dunlop]

Here are the details for the LUGS, Chris.

The Parts Manual also refers to these, and a few others, as 'Sherman Lugs'. I am not certain if that is a reference to a Brand Name, or type of lug, however.

If I end up having to replicate the CONNECTORS, Single, 16-inch, I would prefer to go with the 7mm HT wire that I have on hand at the moment. That should fit the PLUGS just nicely but would tend to be a rather sloppy fit when seated in the bore of these LUGS.

I have just noticed, though, in the illustration I posted yesterday of the CONNECTORS that the ID Sleeve is located right up against the back end of the lug. If that ID Sleeve were in fact to also be seated fully into the bore of the lug to keep it in that location, it just might take up any slack between the 7mm HT wire and the bore of the lug. In theory, there should be no physical load at all on the lug end of this Connector. The lug would simply be dropped over the terminal on the side of the Coils, Aerial Tuning case and the wing nut secured…job done and it just sits there. It would be the Plug End that would be subjected to a lot of pushing and pulling force.

Cheers for now,

David

[David Dunlop]

Well it took a while, but my spare parts receiver has now finally been carefully reduced to its basic chassis assembly. It has been an interesting and informative bit of work. I now have a far greater appreciation of the incredible amount of design and planning work that goes into producing a piece of equipment like this in the pre-computer era. I started out just thinking of the line workers actually assembling it, but it is so much more than that, involving a lot more people with a huge variety of other skills.

The process also gave me a much better understanding of the layout of all the components and their interactions with one another in the various circuits in the receiver. Useful things to learn in this project!

The basic foundation of this receiver chassis turns out to be just four pieces of 13-guage, steel, sheet metal.

The main piece of sheet steel runs from the ½-inch lip at the upper rear, across the top, down the back and forward across the bottom, where it then drops to form the lower front section of the chassis and ends with another ½-inch lip folded under the front lower edge. Half-inch tabs are also present on this piece, folded back along the sides where they meet up with the two side panels. These side tabs provide a means for the spot welding to take place joining the three main chassis pieces together. The overall size of this piece would be on the order of 25-1/8 inches long and 15-7/8 inches wide. Where any tabs are located at folds, they were designed that outside corners would be full open at 90 degrees and any inside folds were set up for a 45-degree mitre.

The two side panels are basic dimensional mirror images of each other, 11-1/4 inches wide and 14-7/16 inches long, with ½-inch tabs, front back and bottom only. They really differ only in the hole patterns punched in each.

When the cutting, punching and brake work was completed on these three pieces, they were inspected and a small circular CMC Inspection Stamp was punched into them, ready to move down the line. The first two photos attached highlight these features.

The fourth piece of sheet metal making up the receiver chassis is a strip approximately 1-1/8 inches wide, folded in half lengthwise down the middle forming two ½-inch tabs at 90 degrees. This piece is 13-3/4 inches long with straight cut ends, and forms the lower rear edge of the chassis. It is butt welded in place with all external seams filled and ground smooth.

The spot-welds on the tabs connecting the main and side chassis panels are approximately 1 inch apart wherever possible and ¼-inch in diameter. The second photo also shows how the lower chassis strip and the upper rear edge both have all their external seams filled and ground smooth.

Photo 3 shows the inside of the lower chassis strip with the unfinished butt welds. Note that the zinc plating covers these welds. By ensuring all these external seams are smooth, it makes sliding the receiver in and out of its relevant Carrier that much easier for the Operator.

A number of smaller sheet metal pieces are spot welded to the chassis prior to it being zinc plated, but I am not sure if these small pieces would have been added to the individual chassis panels before they were assembled into one unit, or after.

The first two are the Upper Mounting Brackets passing through slots on either upper front side. These are made of heavier, 11-guage sheet metal. They have an offset stamped into them such that when the rear portions of them are spot welded to the chassis sides, the outside faces of the front sections projecting through the slots, line up perfectly with the outside face of the chassis side panels. This ensures a good fit when the receiver chassis goes in and out of its Carrier. The last photo in this Post shows this offset on the Upper Left Side Mounting Bracket.

The fourth Photo here gives a rear view of what is going on around the Right Side Mounting Bracket. Two other 13-guage metal strips are also fitted here.

The long vertical strip is a stiffener to support the Upper Front Right Subpanel Assembly. This is the small panel that sits directly behind the removable Upper Front Panel of the receiver, which supports the BAND Switch, FREQ ADJ Switch and AERIAL Terminals visible outside the receiver, as well as the Gas Discharge Tube Clips mounted inside, behind the two Aerial Terminals.

The larger, horizontal strip of 13-guage steel mounts the AirLoc Fastener Receptacle. A blue, spring steel spring assembly is held inside this receptacle. Note that the entire thing is covered in zinc plating.

The rest of the chassis information will follow shortly.



David

[David Dunlop]

Continuing on with what I have found when disassembling my spare parts receiver, the 1st Photo in this Post shows a front view of the three machine screws used for mounting the right rear side of the Coil Assembly RF to the back of the Receiver Chassis. They are slotted, pan head machine screws, 7/16-inch long by 6-32 NC in design.

A rear view of these three screws is in the 2nd Photo. Once they were screwed in place, the heads were welded to the chassis and then ground down to avoid any contact with the leads from components mounted on the PANELS, Phenolic, 22-Tag ZA/CAN 4690 (Discussed in Post #616.) that gets installed directly behind these screws later in the assembly process. Note the welded heads have been zinc plated.

The three small Grid Cap Clip lead holes with the metal sleeves pressed in place, and the larger sleeve for the AGF, NOISE LIMIT and HET TONE Switches sub harness are also all zinc plated, so must have been fitted before the plating process as well, along with the 15 small hollow threaded spacers riveted on the chassis for mounting the Tag Panels. The crimps on all these rivets show no plain steel at all, just zinc plating.

The one remaining item that was riveted to the chassis is the 2-3/4 inch solid steel support for the lower inside corner of the 8-Pin Connector Mounting Plate. The third photo in this post shows this support in place, and the fourth photo shows the back end of this support rivet head. All of it again, zinc plated. The open end of this support is tapped 7/16 inch deep for one of the 8-Pin Mounting Plate Countersunk screws.

The last Photo here today shows the 13-Guage reinforcing strip spot-welded under the upper right rear lip of the main chassis plate for the upper two mounting screws of the 8-Pin Connector Plate. If you look closely in the 4th Photo, you can see that the metal from the main chassis panel has been cut back with a countersink just to the point of the reinforcing plate beneath it. I believe this was done to avoid the two mounting screws from grabbing both pieces of metal when threaded home and spreading the two pieces apart in the process. The kind of thing that can happen, when you try and screw two pieces of metal, or wood together sometimes.

Once all these pieces were assembled. The chassis would have been zinc plated and inspected. All three main chassis parts show circular, blue, C.M.C. Inspection stamps on them. The chassis then probably received its Production/Control Number, and then had the blue Component Location ID marked applied and spot varnished. The next logical step would be installing all the Valve Holder Assemblies, and then, perhaps the Main Wiring Harness.

As I noted in the previous Post, this disassembly has been very interesting, though time consuming to do. And I needed the diversion to clear my head a little. I now plan to get back to getting the Main Set Receiver back up and running properly.


David

[David Dunlop]

True to form in a project of this size, I was cleaning up the shop a bit this evening and ran across a ziplock bag containing a single Capacitor and Cleat Assembly I had not yet catalogued.

While looking the capacitor up in the Master Parts List, I ended up flipping past the page with the CAPS, Holders, Watch, No. C1 on it. Something I have done countless times before. This time, however, something in the shading of the illustration of this part, along the front face, caught my eye. It appeared to be a rendering of the ZA/CAN Number cast in raised letter in the Bakelite. That jogged my memory.

About two years ago, I ran across an ad on-line from a chap in England who was selling NOS Bakelite Pocket Watch Holders. If I recall correctly, they were originally packed 10 to a box and he had several boxes of them available for sale. Since both my 52-Set Receivers were missing their Pocket Watch Holders, I ordered a pair.

When they arrived, I had noticed they had the ZA/CAN Number cast into the front face of the Caps. Checking the two Pocket Watch Holders on my Mk II and Mk III 19-Sets, I found both Caps were smooth, No sign of a number of any kind on them at all. At the time I just assumed the ones I had just ordered were probably British made NOS and thought nothing more of it.

Now I find the cast ZA/CAN Number on those two Pocket Watch Holders is what shows up in the 52-Set Master Parts List. Late discovery, but nice none the less.


David