FGT Restoration

[rob love]

That is what I figure, but there are multiple bonding straps going from the frame up to the cab floor into 2 different spots just 6" apart. Then another one from the frame forward maybe a foot or so going from the frame to the floor again. Opposite side of the truck has the same thing again. There was even a bonding trap to the door from the pillar, and short ones from the floor to the firewall frame.



I have unhooked the floor to frame ones as I want to lift the remainder of the cab off tonight. I just have to make sure everything is off. I was working on removing the steering box last night when it got too dark to work.

[m606paz]

Both FGT we have, 7B2 and 7B3 body, a lot of bondstraps . Hood , doors and dog house and others places.

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by m606paz

Both FGT we have, 7B2 and 7B3 body, a lot of bondstraps . Hood , doors and dog house and others places.

It'll be safety related, static protection in case there's loose explosive about, and redundant straps in case of combat damage.

That would be my guess.

("Licenced powder wagon" for pyrotechnics requires lots of bonding between all metal parts (also screened wiring, no earth returns via chassis, etc.)

Chris.

[rob love]

I pulled off the steering box last night and it had a bonding strap from the frame to the box, with an extra bolt hole half way along the strap. They may have been for the floor toe plate or the front cowl. There is a part number on a little plate attached to that strap, so maybe the prefix to the part number will give an idea to the rough date. At this point I don't have the FAT specific parts manual, rather I am using the earlier and more generic manuals which covered all the Ford CMPs in one manual.

[rob love]

Below are some shots of the spacers for the crossmember just behind the transfer case. I have to remove these and move them over to the other frame. They were welded to the tractor crossmember and the whole unit rivetted to the frame. Since I am moving the crossmember forward, there is the need for these spacers. I am also showing why it is better to remove the rivet head before center punching and drilling. You just can't trust the peened end of the rivet to represent center.



Best bet is to get rid of the rivet head and center punch the shaft. I then like to drill around 1/8 about 3/4 the way through the rivet. I follow that up with a 3/8 bit, then knock it through with a punch and hammer. A pnematic hammer with punch are also good, but the neighbors will not like you and as well you lose the tranquility.

[rob love]

Today I removed the cab floor, the transfer case, the engine and transmission, the transfer case shifter, and a few other mechanicals. Another day and this frame will be done. I need to remove the crossmember for the transfer case yet, the front axle with springs, and the steering box bracket. That bracket would appear to be mostly bolted along with a few welds. I will have to check the two at work to see if they were welded as well, or if this was post service.

[rob love]

Amongst the many decisions to make now, is whether to keep this 8BA engine, or go back to one of the original Ww2 engines. I am leaning towards the 8BA but putting on the truck water pumps, the WW2 exhaust manifolds, and am tossing on whether to go back to the early distributor or retain the 8BA top distributor. In fact (for the weak of stomach, shield your eyes and ears) I am leaning towards making this a 12 volt vehicle. That will be a first for me.