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A suggestion....... CORRECTION I was wrong on the re inforcement to the side panel hook/strap........... I have seen them BUT cannot says they are original based onthe other cargo boxes I have on hand........ it would make sense if it showed to be a problem but does not seem to be a factory assembly....a field modification at best. My apologies..
the "L" shaped brackets, that I have seen, on the front corner of the cargo box has a 45 degree brace that allows more tension to be placed on the side panel. If you find yours rattle after a while you might want to do the n modification.....not sure if they were field modification driven by necessirty or factory. What are your plans for the ceiling pads.... or will you wear a helmet??? Cheers PS....... Wait until you drive to a service station and try to fit the nozzle into the fuel tank.......... ............. the answer...... bring a 40 cm lenght of radiator hose same size as used on the cab 11.....
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada Last edited by Bob Carriere; 08-12-22 at 21:04. |
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Hi Bob,
That sounds like a good field/factory mod on those brackets. CORRECTION NOTED ABOVE I wasn't aware of any ceiling pads before you mentioned it a while back, I have sourced some fibrous black felt (Auto sound deadening quilt). It may need doubling up on the thickness, but I'll see what it looks like before committing to glue. My donkey dick (rad hose) is in hand! PS, I'm aware the bullnose roof trim is not correct but it can stay until I find the correct profile. Cheers, Paul
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1942 Ford GPW 1942 Harley WLA 1943 Willys MB 1940 BSA M20 1940 Morris Commercial CDSW Light Recovery 1942 CMP Chevrolet no. 12 cab 1944 Bedford MWD Last edited by Paul Edwards; 09-12-22 at 21:41. Reason: further information |
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Hi Paul
That trim must be available somewhere. Your posting reminded me to do mine. Lucky to have salvaged one years ago..... very thinned out by rust but still good. I lightly sand blasted for fear of cutting it in two....primed and painted. After a couple of coats of POR 15 Grant did most of the installing. Had to order special round/flat tops in SS one inch size.....pre drilled the hard ash wood and it looks great. I should have acid dipped my screw heads first to help the of flat paint stick to them so come Spring I will dab each screw head with acid and repaint the whole cab. For the roof pads......centered over each set....use a plumb line. I used one inch thick commercial high density grey foam cut to 16 /12 inches square and spray painted with automotive rubber spray..... 3 coats with time to dry in between...... also sprayed the back side one coat in case it curled. Finally glued with black PolyUrethane calking spread with a putty knife. As my roof was currently upside down on the work bench, I used two sand bags (40kg) to allow the glue to cure.....looks very good and still pliable. To impress people at the gas station I usually pull out a CMP or UC sques funnel and attach the proper "horsecock" to the funnel then fill the tank until it spills over........ gets me a few laughs and the over spilling eventually washes the paint off the tank and requires a touch up. Now if only Spring can get here!!!!
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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Spilling petrol! you must be made of money. haha
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1942 Ford GPW 1942 Harley WLA 1943 Willys MB 1940 BSA M20 1940 Morris Commercial CDSW Light Recovery 1942 CMP Chevrolet no. 12 cab 1944 Bedford MWD |
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You can't see down the filler neck.... and can't even use a short wooden stick to gauge level...... maybe a flexible piece of split bamboo painted flat black.
And id you thing that is a bad layout...... wait until you are dressed up in your finest re enactor uniform and you have to check the engine oil level....... I would love to roast the engineer who design such a foul up..... I usually have to get on my knees on the running board, open the round hatch and feel around the distributor to find the open loop of the dip stick........ very similar to untying our girl friends bra single handedly....... pull it out, wipe it...... oh straight out before finding a suitable rag...... then put it back in to get an accurate reading on the oil level..... but you can't see where the open pipe is...... so guiding the dip stick with one hand you get to push down the dip stick with the other hand...... now you engine usually drip oil on the side so you need to remove your oily hand and wipe them clean, after you straighten out, now bend over again to retrieve the dip stick and pull it out being careful; not rub it against anything or your read may be inaccurate..... and you need to do this every time you start up your engine for a drive...... &^%^&$ on this..... if it still drip oil there must be some left...... ...and you also need to verify the coolant by unscrewing the two thumb screws holding the "bonnet" etc......... ....and the brake level in the MC...... I now use a 20 cc syringe from the farm store..... By now it is to late to go anywhere..... Ah the pleasure of old machinery........
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
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Thanks Bob, you must have been a dab hand at removing the girlfriend's bra with one hand...........Practice makes perfect! Haha
Cheers, Paul
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1942 Ford GPW 1942 Harley WLA 1943 Willys MB 1940 BSA M20 1940 Morris Commercial CDSW Light Recovery 1942 CMP Chevrolet no. 12 cab 1944 Bedford MWD |
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Some progress made yesterday with mocking up and drilling the hood bows prior to plating, added a few extra roof bars to prevent the canvas sagging.
Canvas offered up and all appears to be correct, phew! Locker boxes and rear wheel mug guards now to look at repairing, waiting for much improved weather to start painting the paint end tin work. Thanks for all the advice and assistance, much appreciated. Cheers, Paul
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1942 Ford GPW 1942 Harley WLA 1943 Willys MB 1940 BSA M20 1940 Morris Commercial CDSW Light Recovery 1942 CMP Chevrolet no. 12 cab 1944 Bedford MWD |
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