Question for Rob Love......

[chris vickery]

I find any suggestions of modifying ASME designed and proven components to be cringeworthy at best. Steering gear is the one area that I never mess with personally. If it’s questionable, it gets new parts. Understood that the issue is availability of old type complements but I’d keep looking…

[Bob Carriere]

When it comes to safety there are no compromise. Steering....brakes....rims..... tires..... I am looking for something that fits...... we all know that they did not invent CMPs...... they relied on engineering of the day with parts on the shelf in most situation...... they may have been used prior to 1939 (design was in 37/38) or used post war for some other large garbage or cement mixer trucks...... the problem is which one...... not ready to give up yet......

I spent hours looking up in my Hollander Parts interchange manual 16th Edition 1949-50 and out of 504 pages only one page pertains to tie rod ends for Grahams, Larabee, studebaker, etc but nothing for Chev Military....... although parts for the Russian jeeps are listed.

I took extensive measurements today to be cleaned up and posted soon.

The sad part is that there are maybe tons of spare parts in South America in old warehouses and no ones knows what they are.....

Question for Terry.... I have seen Utube footage of 303. British rifles being made from scrap by hand , the elevation rear site, bolts all hand hammered and hand filed......and they look the part......would you fire them???? or the wooden 50. cal machine gun mounted ona jeep done by a guy in the Sorel area.....all from wood panted in gun flat black and distressed....... perfect lookalike until you touch it...... now that is asking for trouble......

Stay tuned.....

[Paul Singleton]

https://www.lwdparts.com/product/end...set-lh-rh-nos/

LWd has a set in stock, it would be nice to have a modern replacement though.

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

...

Question for Terry.... I have seen Utube footage of 303. British rifles being made from scrap by hand , the elevation rear site, bolts all hand hammered and hand filed......and they look the part......would you fire them???? or the wooden 50. cal machine gun mounted ona jeep done by a guy in the Sorel area.....all from wood panted in gun flat black and distressed....... perfect lookalike until you touch it...... now that is asking for trouble......

Stay tuned.....

The gunsmiths in Dharra, Pakistan are craftsmen! They know what they are doing and how to make guns that will function. In the 1980s the DCRA in Canada decided to run blackpowder cartridge rifle matches. The rules were anything in Cartridges of the World that started life as blackpowder. My father was not well off, but was an irrepressible competitor, and he could read. He showed up at the inaugural matches with a Kyber Pass-made Martini Henry chambered for .303Br and shooting cast bullets with gas checks over blackpowder. He could shoot like a hero no matter what discipline, and he cleaned up that year. The rule was subsequently amended to specifically exclude .303Br. It is known as the Edson Warner Rule amongst those who know!

[Bob Carriere]

We had a close inspection of about 4 or 5 sets of tie rods....... most of them removed from the tie rod itself and not necessarily matched pairs....... all are the ones that can be taken apart........ I did take one apart years ago but can't find it and was sightly different in the internal construction.

Anyways...one set of the better tie rod ends still wearing some OD green color, compared to all the others which have been sand blasted during their life span underneath a CMP.

So only one set had the following numbers..... 24V26 F and 2425 F ......
lettering is raised on the casting but rather faint and only after removing very hard green paint with a wire wheel could we read them...... the numbers were located on the back face just above the two holes for clamping.....

One is obviously RH and one LF...... speculation..... is the F for FORD..... we know that the same tie rods was fitted on both Chev and Ford...... and both were involved in a joint venture during the design stage....... some parts being more GM and some being clearly Fords..... how about Marmon-Herrington...? may need to visit the CWM wearing work clothes with a flashlight and my camera telephone......

Progress on searching the Hollander Interchange manual edition 1949-50 of 504 pages showed little on tie rod ends....one page focusing on Graham, Larabee, Studebakers, etc........ although they list parts for Russian -cases....

...and I a searching my photo library for the one Tie rod end that I took apart years ago........ there is a possibility that I reassembled it and is now used on my C15a.......

We do have other complete axles and rolling frames that still have the tie rods installed BUT are buried in deep snow at the moment...... might have to dig a few hole to get down underneath for a closer look..... done that before!

One positive aspect...... the female end of the T. R. measured by Rob is identical.....being 1 1/4 inch and 12 t.p.i........castled nut is 3/4 inch 16 t.p.i.

Sketch of the T.R. with dimensions ..... tomorrow......

More to follow......

[Bob Carriere]

I found them.....

Hanno can you change the top posting to include the words tie rod ends for CMP.......hoping that it will make searches easier inthe future.

I am now convinced that the tie rod pictured was cleaned and reassembled on my C15a but is different on how it is assembled and you wilsee the differentce plus I will take another on apart to confirm.

First picture is the one I am currently measuring......

STUCK ON MANAGE ATTACHMENTS

[Bob Carriere]

First picture of the one I am currently measuring.... this isthe one we are currently measuring.....look at the difference with the old one I took apart years ago,,,,,

Second picture on the right....is the old set of pictures....taken when rebuilding my C15a with an early front axle using a R-Zeppa u-joint inside the egg cup.

Tird pic. of same T/i/ seens from underneath....... the one I am measuring in the top left has a large C clip holding the base inserted cap in place....( will undo one and document)
See the arrow pointing to the large recessed cotter pin holding the screwed on bottom cap....
Fourth pic..... see the arrows pointing tothe different holes indicating some adjustment is possible.....
One the Fifth....the guts of it all....... around ball at the bottom....two side insert....the spring that hols them when inserted inside.... the small coil spring that attached tothetwo holesshown on each of the two little pillow blocks....

See the next post

[Bob Carriere]

got to do the photos first

Number 6.... see the two side pillows highly polished and they have two spring holes forthe flatcoil behind that has bent ends

Noticed the heavy base plug withthe sthreaded side forsettinga preset pressure..... and oddly....look theholeis not perfectly centred!!!!

The finished prodcut Pitcure 7 shows how it assembles.....and it istricky and greasy.... one pillow withthe central taper...then the second taper....then try putting the coil spring in the holes a three man job..

The finished product usually has a rubber flat stiff gasket to keep the grease in near the ball.... amatching light gauge steel flat washer the spring and the nut

I greased mine with Molybdenum hi-pressure Grey grease using a greasing needle attachment tomy grease gun...... it allows the grease to be pushed/squirted real deep were it is need...... cap adjustment is threaded in place at least deep enough to access the cotter pinholes and then tight enough to lock the tapered pin....back off one or two until it can be move stiffly by hand


Tomorrow may try taking the other model with the C clip at the bottom to see how they work....

Stay tuned......

....any speculation on the copper color...... my theory is that the central tapered post/ball was polished and hard chromed than lightly plated with copper as a lubricant and as a wear indicator!! ?????