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#1
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Evening All,
The Panzer is coming along slowly, I will post some pictures at the weekend. The track links on a PZ2 are wider than on a PZ1 and yes I have the right link, i just need 229 more. Thanks for the continued interest. Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#2
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Evening all, it's only little old me coming out of hibernation. I thought that I would give you a quick update. I have been making quite a lot of changes as the assembly progresses, some out of necessity, others because I wasn't happy. I have changed most of the crimp connectors in the wiring for automotive connectors that won't pull apart easily. I have cut out any wiring in the old Jaguar system that aren't absolutely necessary and rerouted a lot of others. The light switch failed before it was ever used properly so had to be replaced. I couldn't find an all metal one apart from in the USA but in the end I settled for one out of a Jeep, not exactly what I was looking for, because of the push down button but after some modification it looks perfect. I had to make a new back plate for the switch that was a bit more in keeping.
I designed what I thought an original one might look like, printed on to water slide transfer paper and applied it to a aluminium plate that i cut out of a piece of old Land Rover body work. I applied the transfer and when dry, gave it a coat of vehicle paint lacquer.
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#3
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One part that I hadn't made, were the cones that go on the idler wheel centers. A very enjoyable bit of fabrication.
I have removed all the copper coolant pipes and replaced them with steel and rubber bends and joints, as I was worried that the soldered joints, in the copper pipe work, would fail through vibration. The plastic pipe clips that held the coolant pipes in place, have been replaced with stainless ones. The exhaust has been wrapped and I have added a remote oil filter for easy access, along with a drain pipe from the engine sump, so that both are easily accessible. The pies from the engine and gearbox to their oil coolers now have quick fit couplings in the pipes. I was always wondering where to put the fuel filter as I didn't want to put it in the engine bay and eventually decided to put it under the floor panel in the crew compartment.
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#4
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I wanted to put a stop tap either side of the filter so that when the filter was changed I didn't end up with a big puddle, so I ordered two taps online at the beginning of January. They turned up on Thursday this week, all the way from Manchester. I wen't to fit them yesterday afternoon and instead of being 8mm, as I had ordered, they were 6mm, bugger. Wales is a lovely place to live but getting anything locally is neigh impossible.
Now you can say what you like about Amazon but I ordered two replacement taps yesterday and they were delivered before lunch today, now that's good going. Other than that, I have spent many cold evenings painting labels on many different internal boxes, brackets etc. and attaching leather retaining straps where required. That's all for now. Jon
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#5
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some extra pictures.
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1950 Land Rover series 1 1967 Land Rover series 2A LWB 1986 Land Rover series 3 SWB 1938 DKW SB200 1944 DKW NZ350-1 1967 Ural K750 sidecar outfit 1944 VW Kubelwagen KDF82 1942 Steyr 1500A 1944 Morris C8A 1943 Chevrolet CMP8A HUP? 194? Bedford QL |
#6
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Fantastic work...... love that you are not just building it but going back to make sure that maintenance will be less of a nightmare........
We always criticize the older machinery....and we should not...... Took me over an hour today to remove a readily accessible screw on oil filter on a 2020 Ford truck........ the filter manufacturer had a bright idea of dipping the bottom of their oil filter cans into an abrasive paint of some sort...... looks jazzy ....but makes the fitting of a filter socket very tight.... and when you have scrapped off the abrasive paint the can is now under size and the Chinese socket slips...... Chink socket was crushed in the vise never to see light again. In desperation, I dug deeper in the tool bin and found my old heavy steel socket that I hammered on the fiolter and used a 18 in. breaker bar......... this time I oiled the filter gasket on the new filter and fully hand tightened ONLY!!!!! Glad I installed remote screw on oil filters and remote bracket on the C15a. Cheers
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#7
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There really are no words to express how impressed I am with your workmanship and oerserverence Jonathan.
I true inspiration ! When completed it will be an absolute gem Cheers Phill
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Ford GPW Jeep USMC Ambulance Willys MB Jeep Daimler Ferret Mk 1 Daimler Ferret Mk 2 Land Rover S2A Field Workshop Land Rover S3 FItted For Radio x2 Land Rover Perentie GS (SASR) International No 1 Mk 3 2.5 Ton 4x4 International No 1 Mk 4 2.5 Ton 4x4 |
#8
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I have since replaced the landrover with a Dodge WC52. Whilst not so great MPG, it will be cheaper to run in the long term as parts and maintenance costs are way less. |
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