1942 cmp f15a

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by leo tomaiolo

..... i saw this truck posted as a complete cab 13 and i sparked my interest. after talking with Chris Vickery, who gave me a very accurate discription of the truck, i decided to move ahead with this purchase. .....

You're in good hands! As soon as I saw Chris' name I had two thoughts. First was, 'oh no, he'll convince this guy to buy the truck - poor bastard' and that immediately changed to, 'oh yeah, he'll convince this guy to buy the truck - lucky bastard'.

And Bob has forgotten more about repairing and restoring CMPs than most guys here. He even has CMP15CWT as his vanity licence plate!

[leo tomaiolo]

so first up was getting some rubber that would hold air for more than a day. and with no good way to get rims that would fit, i decided to make my own. i started with some rims off a 1 ton van. their 16" rims and clear the drums nicely.so i cut out the old centers and made new centers and welded them in. and since these are for only rolling the truck around i wasn't worried about making the rims highway safe, although their quite rugged. next up get the rear drums to rotate freely.

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

I look forward to seeing your progress, and congratulations on acquiring that truck!!

As to:

Originally Posted by leo tomaiolo

next up get the rear drums to rotate freely

You might have 'fun' with that. I would have thought getting them to rotate by backing off the brake shoes would be all it took as well as removing the drums...but unfortunately no. Maybe 50 years ago but not now. I hope that part goes well for you.

[leo tomaiolo]

so i got to work on the rear drums. used my puller and some light heat to ease them off. once they were off i was pleasantly surprised that the brake shoes were in real good shape. in fact they were relined at some point and showed little wear. i lubed up the cams and adjusters and got the shoes moving. the drums were also in good shape. although i didn't measure them, the bevel was still present on the wear surface so they haven't been turned down much, if at all. the drums had some heavy rust and general crud that had bonded to them. a little light grinding with a soft pad cleaned them up good. when i'm ready to rebuild the rear brakes i will send the drums out to be turned nice. so now the truck rolls easy with 2 people pushing it. i had lucked out in that the front wheels rolled easy when i got the truck. when i had the truck up on the lift i lubed it and every grease fitting took grease, it was a good sign that this truck was taken care of, even though it sat for a long time. now it's ready to come home start the restoration.

[Bob Carriere]

For the best job on your brakes.....take everything apart and sandblast clean....even lightly on the shoes....... until you can read FORD.....

Pay particular attention at the backing plate with the "snail" ajustments which once cleaned will need some tender attention and lots of WD 40 or equivalent and maybe some heat...... they can break off........ You may also need to replace the rear sheet metal funny looking oil seal.....available at Mac Auto as a Ford truck part. Inspect the wheel bearings carefully for possible pitting.....at about $80 a side for bearings and race any good bearing truck center can find modern replacement.....usually by size rather than inscribed part number.. get yourself the proper axle nut size socket as it makes it easier to preload the bearings on re assembly.

Nice job on the home made "Yard" rims....

Get your drum turned to match the radii of the brake lining..... lots of steel on those drums.....machine shop should have no problem matching curve of drums to lining which will help immensely when adjusted ...

Same applies to the front axle brake assembly except the oi seal is 6.5 inches and still available....some stores will have them in stock as they are used, I was told, in modern commercial bread making machines.

How are the brake cylinders....... new ones or relined in SS....? same for the master .

If you are stumped just send an email.

[chris vickery]

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

You're in good hands! As soon as I saw Chris' name I had two thoughts. First was, 'oh no, he'll convince this guy to buy the truck - poor bastard' and that immediately changed to, 'oh yeah, he'll convince this guy to buy the truck - lucky bastard

Well, I guess I am an enabler. Helping other with their addictions to old rusty junk lol.
I saw this from a couple perceptives. One, I helped an old fella out who wanted to see his cherished family heirloom go to a good home and two, seeing another historic vehicle get a new lease on life with a happy (maybe) enthusiast.

[Bob Phillips]

Save yourself a lot of grief and just buy new wheel cylinders. They are available from Rock Auto for less than US$40 each. Raybestos WC4571 and WC4511 I believe. I think they fit both Ford & Chev 15cwt trucks. Check the parts list on this forum for more part numbers.

[chris vickery]

I’ll do some digging, I’m pretty sure that I kept my list of CMP part numbers that cross referenced to modern ones

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Great catch Leo! A lot of work, good to see you are digging right in.

Wheel brake cylinders and master cylinders are available new, especially in the USA, see e.g. http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...003#post123003 and scroll down a bit.

Originally Posted by chris vickery

I’ll do some digging, I’m pretty sure that I kept my list of CMP part numbers that cross referenced to modern ones

We have a subforum for that sort of info: http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=25

[leo tomaiolo]

thanks for all the advice. now it's waiting to come to the house garage to start the serious work on the tear down. i threw one of the original tires in the spare tire carrier to see how it looks, love it.

[leo tomaiolo]

got the F15a home, and the twins are together. so now starts the disassembly. i took the dog house off and yes there's an engine in there. the more i pick thru the F15a the happier i am. the dash is in not to bad of shape, at least i can read the mileage, LOL. next up will be to take the cab off of the F60 and get the chassis and bed out of the port. once that's done i'll start to really get the F15a stripped down.