![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Great work guys; very nice. Good to see another Hammond Barn update!
__________________
Chevrolet C8 cab 11 FFW BSA Folding Bicycle |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
3 more photos showing addition of the reinforcements for the latch hook pivots, holes to permit seeing tail lights with the tailgate hanging down and adding hinges to the dropsides (to be more accurate - the second side still needs some fabrication before attaching hinges). The reinforcements for the latch had been removed from the sample tailgate so it wasn't originally something we realized would be needed. Then we saw photos... The hole saw used to make the cutouts for taillight visibility did leave a rough edge but were cleaned up both for better appearance and because the holes make an obvious grab point and would have cut fingers...
It is noticeable that Bob's smile gets a bit wider every time another part of the box gets fabricated and installed. Last edited by Grant Bowker; 09-06-23 at 18:26. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The dropsides are now firmly welded to their hinges and the bars the tailgate latches pass through are also welded. The hinge rods for tailgate and dropsides have been cross drilled for the securing cotter pins. The washers for the cotter pins on the hinge rods are a non standard size (at least for current Canadian common practice) so the appropriate size OD washer was drilled out to fit the hinge rods. Hooks were fabricated to hold the forward ends of the dropside in the upright position. (still "as fabricated" and needing to be trimmed for length). In case you are wondering - the large "left" and "right" labels were to stop us from trying to install the dropsides on the wrong sides of the truck. They had been made to be very close to the same but we didn't want to make trouble for ourselves switching them accidentally after making minor tweaks to make each fit in place...
Remaining fabrications: attach the "capstan style" tarp hold downs to the body with copper rivets (sourced, just need a few hits with the rivet gun...) Fabricate and install the tailgate hooks. Install the internal braces on the headboard. All jobs that will take a while and not jump out as huge progress... |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
From the looks of the hinge "bars" and some rub rails are the only original parts.
__________________
Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Nice progress!
David |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
The floor and substructure are original (with minor repairs) along with the wheel boxes (which reminds me that the footman loops on the wheel boxes also need to be added).
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Based on Bob's experience with getting components cut/bent/fabricated for the 2B1 body and mine preparing panels for the 15 cwt GS trailer I'd like to make a few comments/suggestions:
1. Be absolutely clear in your mind what you are trying to achieve. 2. Prepare sketches (with dimensions) so you will be able to discuss with the fabricator. 3. Discuss with the fabricator to be sure they understand the standard you need them to work to and that they are able/willing to do this. 4. Confirm whether they work to inside or outside dimensions - then re-do the sketches to give them dimensions in the style they are used to. Try very hard to avoid mixing styles of dimensioning. If you must mix styles be exceptionally clear. 5. Discuss which dimensions are critical to success and which ones you can give them a little freedom on. 6. Ask the fabricator if they have suggestions or questions to give/get a better product. 7. Be willing to consider design/fabrication changes compared to original fabrications that don't affect the finished product to better suit current tooling. (the older bending brakes could do things the modern press brakes can't - and vice versa). 8. If you have the option (without making the fabricator feel you don't trust them), offer to check/confirm with the fabricator that the first few parts are coming out the way you want them to so that you don't get to the end of the job and discover that the parts can't be assembled into what you want to make. The objective has to be to help the fabricator give you parts of a quality that will make you want to use their services in future and be willing recommend them to others while keeping the fabricators happy to have you as a future client for your next project |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi Grant
Would add one particular point to discuss with your fabricator. Do they measure to the inside of the bend or outside of the bend. When I had the replacement inside frame rails my C60L bent they confused inside with outside of the bend on the channel bends for the rails. Meant having to remove 1/4 inch down the entire length. Cheers Phil
__________________
Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
2020 at the Hammond Barn | Bob Carriere | The Restoration Forum | 21 | 15-12-20 22:59 |
2018 at the Hammond Barn | cliff | The Restoration Forum | 17 | 22-05-18 17:08 |
2015 at the Hammond Barn | RHClarke | The Restoration Forum | 113 | 31-12-15 21:00 |
2010 at the Hammond Barn | RHClarke | The Restoration Forum | 181 | 01-01-11 03:02 |
Hammond Barn Visit | Wpns 421 | The Softskin Forum | 1 | 15-12-09 03:17 |