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  #1  
Old 08-06-23, 22:26
Alex van de Wetering Alex van de Wetering is offline
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Great work guys; very nice. Good to see another Hammond Barn update!
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  #2  
Old 09-06-23, 12:26
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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3 more photos showing addition of the reinforcements for the latch hook pivots, holes to permit seeing tail lights with the tailgate hanging down and adding hinges to the dropsides (to be more accurate - the second side still needs some fabrication before attaching hinges). The reinforcements for the latch had been removed from the sample tailgate so it wasn't originally something we realized would be needed. Then we saw photos... The hole saw used to make the cutouts for taillight visibility did leave a rough edge but were cleaned up both for better appearance and because the holes make an obvious grab point and would have cut fingers...
It is noticeable that Bob's smile gets a bit wider every time another part of the box gets fabricated and installed.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Dropside welding hinges.jpg (285.9 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg Tailgate inner - reinforced and light hole.jpg (319.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg Tailgate outer - reinforced and light hole.jpg (275.9 KB, 1 views)

Last edited by Grant Bowker; 09-06-23 at 18:26.
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  #3  
Old 20-06-23, 02:56
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default More 2B1 progress

The dropsides are now firmly welded to their hinges and the bars the tailgate latches pass through are also welded. The hinge rods for tailgate and dropsides have been cross drilled for the securing cotter pins. The washers for the cotter pins on the hinge rods are a non standard size (at least for current Canadian common practice) so the appropriate size OD washer was drilled out to fit the hinge rods. Hooks were fabricated to hold the forward ends of the dropside in the upright position. (still "as fabricated" and needing to be trimmed for length). In case you are wondering - the large "left" and "right" labels were to stop us from trying to install the dropsides on the wrong sides of the truck. They had been made to be very close to the same but we didn't want to make trouble for ourselves switching them accidentally after making minor tweaks to make each fit in place...

Remaining fabrications: attach the "capstan style" tarp hold downs to the body with copper rivets (sourced, just need a few hits with the rivet gun...) Fabricate and install the tailgate hooks. Install the internal braces on the headboard. All jobs that will take a while and not jump out as huge progress...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 2B1 left.jpg (217.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 right.jpg (333.8 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 left-rear.jpg (445.5 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 tail and inner right.jpg (251.9 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 2B1 dropside hook.jpg (252.9 KB, 1 views)
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  #4  
Old 20-06-23, 02:58
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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From the looks of the hinge "bars" and some rub rails are the only original parts.
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  #5  
Old 20-06-23, 03:06
David Dunlop David Dunlop is offline
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Nice progress!


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  #6  
Old 20-06-23, 11:51
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
From the looks of the hinge "bars" and some rub rails are the only original parts.
The floor and substructure are original (with minor repairs) along with the wheel boxes (which reminds me that the footman loops on the wheel boxes also need to be added).
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  #7  
Old 20-06-23, 14:32
Grant Bowker Grant Bowker is offline
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Default Comments on metal fabrication

Based on Bob's experience with getting components cut/bent/fabricated for the 2B1 body and mine preparing panels for the 15 cwt GS trailer I'd like to make a few comments/suggestions:

1. Be absolutely clear in your mind what you are trying to achieve.
2. Prepare sketches (with dimensions) so you will be able to discuss with the fabricator.
3. Discuss with the fabricator to be sure they understand the standard you need them to work to and that they are able/willing to do this.
4. Confirm whether they work to inside or outside dimensions - then re-do the sketches to give them dimensions in the style they are used to. Try very hard to avoid mixing styles of dimensioning. If you must mix styles be exceptionally clear.
5. Discuss which dimensions are critical to success and which ones you can give them a little freedom on.
6. Ask the fabricator if they have suggestions or questions to give/get a better product.
7. Be willing to consider design/fabrication changes compared to original fabrications that don't affect the finished product to better suit current tooling. (the older bending brakes could do things the modern press brakes can't - and vice versa).
8. If you have the option (without making the fabricator feel you don't trust them), offer to check/confirm with the fabricator that the first few parts are coming out the way you want them to so that you don't get to the end of the job and discover that the parts can't be assembled into what you want to make.

The objective has to be to help the fabricator give you parts of a quality that will make you want to use their services in future and be willing recommend them to others while keeping the fabricators happy to have you as a future client for your next project
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  #8  
Old 21-06-23, 14:39
Phil Waterman Phil Waterman is offline
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Default One more point for your list.

Hi Grant

Would add one particular point to discuss with your fabricator. Do they measure to the inside of the bend or outside of the bend.

When I had the replacement inside frame rails my C60L bent they confused inside with outside of the bend on the channel bends for the rails. Meant having to remove 1/4 inch down the entire length.

Cheers Phil
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