.....Chore Horse..... in with the New Year!!!

[Bob Carriere]

Well we tore down into the first Chore Horse..... most complete 24/28 v. painted black......

All seems to be there.... we did find some "new" vinyl covered wires by the magneto coil and some vinyl black tape. Brushes look relatively new...... so we stayed away from tearing down the coils in the gen. Now slowly cleaning up to make it runner for test purposes.

And we have questions....

Points are stamped "Shurhit" no part number ...looks like a generic point set from Delco...... any source suggestions for a new set???? I will canvass the local tractor dealer who has point setssss..... all loose in the parts section....... Delcos were used in Allis Chalmers tractors, Chev engines, Studebackers, Massey Ferguson gas engines,etc..... maybe able to eye ball a match...

Gasoline tank...... would like to clean the inside and apply a sealer but not sure what can be used since the tank is aluminum...... how to you etch the inside safely????

This one will be painted NATO green......some parts have been sandblasted the rest is getting cleaned ligthly before the paint ....sort of "lipstick" on a pig......

Soaked and cleaned the carburator....so small!!!... contgrolbox has been sandblasted and will be primed and flat satin alum. paint.... one original wire will be treated with "liquid tape" and some shrink heat wrap.......

Variable control looks ok will test for resistance....an idea how many ohms I should be looking at???

Air breather tube made of "white metal or alum has a cracked base at the junction to the carb..... may respond to J-B Weld epoxy.

Finally ????? below the engine .... attached too the enginebase that bolts on to the tank is a strange semi rigid fiber gasket material.... currently seems to be glued to the bottom of the engine casting...acting almost like a oil pan cover......very firmly in place so we have not removed it.....crank case was emptied and flush with brake cleaner..... As anyone else encountered this set up????


photos are coming....... my batteries died..... lack of recent use...... Grant's camera gave up the ghost but he got a replacement...

Other wise we have learned that working with cold fingers is a handy cap...... working with fingers frozen from the evaporation lacquer thinner or brake cleaner is even worst........ the little screws on the carb were a real challenge with numb fingers......

Stay tuned for more horsing around........

[Jordan Baker]

Hi Bob

Glad my past posts can serve as some inspiration to you and Grant.

Points...and other chorehorse parts. Check with LWD Parts as they picked up the supply that Brian Asbury had.

Fuel tank. I stripped mine right down and removed the fuel pickup tube/screen and drain plugs. It was full of old fuel gunk and crud. I scraped out as much as I could with a small hand scraper. I then soaked the inside and out of the tank with Purple Zep degreaser and a small fish tank heater inside. It only took a couple of hours. I kept taking it out and flushing it to remove stuff as it loosened up. Just be aware that the Zep reacts with the aluminum. I forget which gas it creates so do some further reaction on it. But it did clean it up exceptionally well. As for a sealer, I wouldn't bother as the tank is aluminum and won't be rusting.

The carb is pretty easy to strip right down. There are a few very small screws holding bits in place.

The air breather/carb tube is aluminum as well. They frequently crack in that place. JB Weld is prob your best bet.

That semi rigid fiber gasket is doing two jobs. It does act as the bottom of the crank case, it also acts as the top of the fuel tank. I carefully removed mine with a brand new box cutter blade. When I reapplied it both sealing surfaces were given a thin coat of Permatex #2. I believe there is also copper washers under all the bolt heads that hold the crankcase to the fuel tank.

[Mike K]

Was a nice example FS here recently, unmodified - still 15 V output.

These things have little current regulation , they can push 20 amps through a battery - to the point of boiling away the electrolyte . Make a habit of feeling how warm the battery case is while the horse is running.

[Bob Carriere]

.....back to the big ice box on Monday!!!!!

may try using POR 15 as a sealer for the tank.....

On to LWD parts......... found a ton load of old NOS "Shurhit" ignition points listings on the web but without a speciffic part number I can't tell which is which going back to the late 1920s....... both set of point that I have, a NOS from Brian and the used one, have NO part number stamped on them...

Jordan.... how did you restore the red dial from the control box...... I rubbed lacquer thinner to get rid of the aluminum paint and it went clean to the metal with very faint lettering........ you used white glue?????

....and my can of liquid tape has all evaporated to a lump!!!!! back to PA...

[Mike K]

This is the horse I spotted recently FS. It is located in NSW .

A tip : I discovered that the resistance unit that is located in the screened ignition lead can be a cause of trouble with these chorehorse generators. Often , weak spark can be traced to the resistor.

Just recently I was removing the original ww2 era spark plug and the socket jammed and the porcelain insulator snapped .

[Jordan Baker]

Bob

So long as the etching is good on the data tags it’s reasonably simple to restore them. I sprayed the dial red and let it dry for a week or so. Then use a new razor box cutter blade and carefully scrape off the paint from the raised lettering. Just go slow with it.

[Bob Carriere]

Lettering is very faint and I am not sure my hands are as steady as a regular model maker!!!!!!!! Do they still sell "Letraset" sheets?????