Transfer case surgery.... - Page 2

Bob Carriere · #31 29-08-05, 00:32

the gear to be removed....

Bob Carriere · #32 29-08-05, 00:34

Not as easy as it seems.... had to apply pressure.... Release All... heat from a propane torch... more tightening.... more heat.... wrap with a hammer.... finally it popped....

Bob Carriere · #33 29-08-05, 00:36

... the harder they are.... I use my largest 2 inch box wrench... nothing doing......

....got a 2 inch socket from... where else... Princess Auto... impact removed both 2 inch nuts in seconds......

I could then get to the damaged/rusted bearing..... will replace with new ones amd new races....

rob love · #34 29-08-05, 05:52

Hey Bob, thats a lot of Princess auto stuff in your pictures, but I can do you one better; besides the usual array of Princess Auto stuff in my workshop, I actually had the president of the company in mine for a visit this summer. And Matt from this board can attest to it too, right Matt?

Bob Carriere · #35 30-08-05, 01:56

You are one up on me......

..... was the President on sale????? did you get your money back when he left????

Be nice to him he might have keep one of evrything they once sold and he might have an old CMP tucked away somewhere.

Bob

rob love · #36 30-08-05, 04:34

He tells the story of the old days when he would get the order at the front counter, walk to the back and pick up one of the Lee Enfields, grab a box of ammo on the way back up, and charge the customer about $20.
Ever price .303 these days?

Phil Waterman · #37 30-08-05, 14:40

Bob- What was the condition of the other bearings in the transfer case? Strangely it was the center cluster bearings on my transfer case that had to be replaced.

Just used a speedy sleeve to stop an oil leak on Beauty transfer case. New seal and speedy sleeve and leak was gone.

Also just replace one of the orginal universal joints on Beauty, finially developed end slop on one of the cross Xs. Not to bad though it last 10,000 miles after being cleaned and reassembled during the restoration.

On the Pattern 12 I think I will just go ahead and replace all the universals before reassembling.

Tony Smith · #38 30-08-05, 16:22

Phil, can you give us the part number for the Universal joint you used? The Ford joint measures something close to, but not exactly the same as, a 1350 series or 5-178x uni. What joint fits the Chev?

Bob Carriere · #39 31-08-05, 01:23

Hi Phil

In the T-case the worst bearings were the idler/center bearing...badly corroded....black spot on them... one had a few of the little barrels rusted tight.... seems little lub stays on in the cneter section when parked for years. Similarly the bearing at the lower end.... outlet for the front axle had collected water and the top most rear part... the PRO for the winch had water... usupect the drain hole for the oil had become plugged.... so to be fair I am changing all bearings and races... and new seals. Now I have some concerns about the new seals... they are very light sheet metal stampings and half the thickness.... the bearing shop said to instal new seals flush with the caps..... says they are coated with a soft sealing paint/sealer that will shear off on installing and shouild seal sufficiently. Personnaly I intend to coat with mediaum strenght "blue" LocTite compound.... what did you do???

Can you explain the installation of these speedy sleeves>> do they just slip over the shaft.... what holds them in place.... sealer??? or do you need to have the shafts machined to allow for the sleeve????

I also got myself a set of aluminium seal/bearing installer kit... tapped a few races in by hand but I am afraid of damaging the lighter seals.....

U-joint...... well Rob spent some time last week taking a whole bunch apart from spare drive shafts... some C15 some C30 or what have you.... everything went well in the rebuilding until he dropped on on the floor and lost some needles... all the other spares were bigger needles..... bummer..... well we still have another C15 parts truck in the back field for Rob to play with.....

Depending on the $$ situation I intend to replace my U-joints with new ones......( tot. of 8 with the winch) so any help with parts numbers will be appreciated...... hoping the Industrial bearing solution place can cross reference some of my parts with new modern stuff. I do not want to have to do it again.......

What did you come up with on the cab 12...?? I beleive that cup size and width should be crossed referenced easily with today's computer system.......

Boob

Phil Waterman · #40 15-09-05, 21:48

Quote:

Originally posted by Tony Smith
Phil, can you give us the part number for the Universal joint you used? The Ford joint measures something close to, but not exactly the same as, a 1350 series or 5-178x uni. What joint fits the Chev?

Sorry for the delay, kept forgetting to bring the part numbers in from the shop. C60 appears to use the same universal all through the drive line here are the part numbers:

Old NAPA # 331
New NAPA # 210-0178 (subscript 331) or NUJ2100178 or PUJ331
Dana # 5143X or 5174X or 5178X

Dimensions:
Diameter of bearing ends 1.185
Inside X end to end 3.394
End of bearing end to end of bearing 3.700

Bob Carriere · #41 17-09-05, 16:01

Hi Phil

Thanks for the detailed info.

According to my C15 parts manual I seem to have two differetn size U joint....... 4 of the same for the front and rear driveshafts and two of different size for the short driveshaft that fits between the tranny and T-case.

Knowing that my truck was owned by a service station and that changes were made I am very cautious of measuring the parts I have found and beleive that they are original..... instead I will compare against other C15 parts truck first and look ofr original parts numbers stamped on the crosses. The Industrial Bearing solution shop I deal with claims they can help me.

More to follow later...... I may start a new string or ask Geoff to transfer some of this info on a new thread.

Bob C.