Switch to 12v

Originally posted by Alex Blair
What about R....???

I'm still here. . . . . . .

Watts(POWER)
=E X I

But from the basic formula:
E = I x R you can see also that I = E ÷ R so you can do a substitution for E and I:

W = E² ÷ R and also W = I² x R


R.

[Rob Dyba]

As I am in the process of converting a carrier to 12v, and have done quite a few old sportscars etc.. here's a couple of easy ideas to use-

Distributor- you can either run a ballast resistor & a 12v coil designed for a ballast resistor IE 6v coil & thats all or just fit 12v coil & a 12V condensor. Most points will handle the current. Personally I do the latter, less to go wrong. Most people forget the condensor & can't work out why it won't rev after driving a couple of 1000km's after the conversion as the condensor slowly dies.. In spite of the large variety of condensors at your local parts supplier they generally are the same with wire & mounting differences only- find the cheapest one on offer that fits & buy 3.

Starter motors- the difference between 6v & 12v starters GENERALLY is the windings diameter. Saying that we have done a couple of V8 conversions on VW kombi's & the only way to get good engine speeds to fire the 4.4 ltr all alloy high compression v8 is a 6v standard 1600cc vw starter running 12v no mods. Never fried one, can't say the same for axles/cluthes/tyres/front shocks when the wheels come back to earth weeeeee!..... As listed previous don't crank & crank & crank, 6v starters juiced up to 12v can get hot if you treat them hard, but then I have seen folk fry 12v starters with 12v........stupid babies need the most love.

Instruments- your local auto electrician will have in-line resistors (or current droppers)to run in-line on your instrument voltage supply supply wire. Or you can be cheep & run a bulb in-line, under the dash or someting similar- it is ok as a temp fix but the in-line resistor is more professional. I know a guy who swears by the ballast resistors as used on the coil. Not my personal choise but apparently with the original equipment voltage stabilizer they work ok.

Bulbs- watch your plastic lenses- if you fit the wrong watt bulb they can/will melt. god bless metal & glass.

Generators- will generally add to their supply or reference voltage within reason. Most 6v genny's will run at 13.5v off idle. For authentic looking regulators get one off an old mini- cheap & 12v compatable and vintage look.

Fuse Boxes. - will generally cope with a 12v convert- just remember, 6v 10 amp fuse blows at 12v 5 amp. Stick with the rating, just make sure u go 12v fuses.

The main argument I have for going 12v is they are currently in 99.9% of cars, and such freely available, anyone can jump start you & most servo's (gas stations) have std bulbs in 12v when u need them.


Rob