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#17
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I was thinking about JB last nught and remembered my uncle used to use it to repair cylinder walls of old stationary hit-and-miss engines. They had been sitting with water in them for years and the pitting, usually on the side down, would make it impossible to make compression. So he would clean them up and put in JB and use a hard plastic piece, cut to the diameter of the bore, to shape it . When it hardened a bit he honed the cylinder. Put it back together and voila.
He didn't run them under load or very long so they didn't heat up excessively and it worked. Another thing I have used is a polyester resin loaded with Aluminum powder. It was 2 part but you could pour it and use a vacuum bell to hell pull out the air bubbles. This made it a bit easier to cast intricate items. It had about 85% aluminum loading and retained about that much characteristic of the aluminum. Very neat stuff. We did stress and impact testing with polyester resin and glass loading. Our results were that polyester resin had almost no strength so is was not to be used alone. Also , if you can reach the 85% loading point it would be at its maximun strength. Theoretically higher glass loading would be stronger, but the item generally does't carry enough polyester resin to wet everthing properly and hold together. I would extrapolate that anything used as a reinforcing agent in the Polyester medium would be close to peaking in strength at 85% loading. I tell you this so that if you have a lot to do, buy the items separately and mixing them would be cheaper. A fiberglass automobile kit is a polyester resin and glass fiber set. Use the resin with the metal dust off of your bench grinder and there you go. Sean
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1944 Allis Chalmers M7 Snow Tractor 1944 Universal Carrier MKII M9A1 International Halftrack M38CDN 1952 Other stuff |
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