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  #1  
Old 05-05-08, 14:30
Ralph Volkert Ralph Volkert is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Latchford, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 142
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Welcome! Looks good!

I especially like the idea of the carriage bolt with the acorn nut for a temp fix! I was leery about the hand riveting and will be starting repairs on my new aquisition soon. I would appreciate hearing how you would do the riveting Did you hammer with a punch it or use a bit on an Air chisel?
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Ralph Volkert

UC 2Mk I*
Upper Hull: CB 8075
Lower Hull: 8105
S/N: 9075
Date: Jun(est) 42
contract #: CDLV 213

1946 Willys Jeep
1974 Plymouth Road Runner
1987 Trans Am
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  #2  
Old 06-05-08, 01:35
Derrick Eastman Derrick Eastman is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: BC
Posts: 31
Default riveting

as I said,I am a millwright by trade.I work in a large sawmill here in BC.We get rivets from a company called CAN AM chain.The HD 78 and H78 rivets are pretty close to carrier size.Any spots I want to be permanent(ie: frontal armor)I will put the factory rivet head on the outside of the machine and block the rivet so it wont move.I may try a little tack with 7018 3/32 welding rod on the inside to keep it from moving out.A piece of hardened shaft turned concave on the one end should get a reasonable rounded rivet head profile .the rivet must be heated up very hot with an oxy/acetylene torch before hammering. I use a 2 and a half pound ball peen hammer(millwrights favourite tool!) its best if done in one heat.Bear in mind this is all 'future' for me right now.Next year.If you have never done any hot riveting be prepared to scrap about the first 20 or so until you get results your happy with.the H 78 and HD 78 rivets are about 3 inches long but I can get them real cheap, and cut then to length.you should see the steel my mill throws away!!!! I can get tons of plate for nada.
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  #3  
Old 06-05-08, 06:26
Justin Pollard Justin Pollard is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Australia
Posts: 191
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Nice work there Derrick,looking good.
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Met Gas LP2A carrier Hull no.2753-
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