Shock links

[jason meade]

I am tryig to source some shock links, What is everyone doing for this is there something else that is being used? My two rear ones are shot with heavy rust and bending, Front ones are beat to death.
Just looking for ideas?
Jason

[RHClarke]

Originally Posted by jason meade

I am tryig to source some shock links, What is everyone doing for this is there something else that is being used? My two rear ones are shot with heavy rust and bending, Front ones are beat to death. Just looking for ideas? Jason

What vehicle? What model? What year?

[Bob Carriere]

Rob us right we might be able to help...... any pictures of what you have left....?\

Bob

[Lynn Eades]

Just what do you mean Bob? Looks like too much of this and this

[cliff]

If you look at his signature amongst the vehicles is a 44 C15A Wire 5

[Grant Bowker]

Due to the number of times that the surviving trucks have been found with details that wouldn't be expected based on production date (for exanple, civilian pattern dashes on 1945 Chevs) photos would still help to let others know what Jason need in the way of pars. It might also suggest repair options to permit use of all or some of his existing parts.

[jason meade]

Sorry Guys...Took my dummy pill last night,its a 44 Chev C-15A,I will get some photos of all four corners tonight, I am on my Christmas leave for the better part of a month so looking at really clamping down and getting some of this done along with getting the engine started.
Jason

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jason

When you take your pictures take some of the attachment points on the axles. They used a number of styles and the links are not interchangeable. The early have rubber in the ends the later ones are straight steel.

There is some very good information in the Service Bulletins about this issue.

As has been discussed before on HUPs there are a number of different arm styles as well as links. Ok here is a starting point on the old thread for Chevy CMP http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...d.php?p=117874
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/ar...hp/t-2908.html

Here is a link to shots of the shock links on my 45 HUP which may give you a starting point. http://www.canadianmilitarypattern.c...ailphotos.html


Cheers Phil

[jason meade]

Ok guys here are a few pictures of the links and attaching points on the axels.
Jason

[jason meade]

Also is this the correct location..for the throttle linkage and what is this black bracket for, the one with the hole in it?

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jason

The thingie with the hole in it is a muffler bracket. There is a strap of steel that wraps around the muffler and laced through that bracket. End of the steel strap bracket is bent outward at 90 degrees and a bolts is used to tighten the strap against the circular muffler.

Have to look at your pedal set up.....looks strange but can't figure why???

...and sorry for the confusion on the shock linkages....... there are various model used over the years and regardless of year of manufacture parts do get substituted. We have a box full of cleaned, snadblasted, phosphate and painted with POR of the early mini steering rod linkage style. What I mean by this is that the early ones where almost mini models of the steering linkage that connects the steerign box to the front axle. They can be disassembled cleaned and reused based on using the less worn out parts. The later model like you have were the disposable type...once worn they are junk.

I am always more concerned for the front axle than the rear one due to steering, shimmy, etc. I would suggest you at least open up you front shocks and make sure they are still full of oil ( or drain and refill)..... and I would prefer using new or very good linkage rods from the shock to the axle.

Your front axle as the later model.... don't loose the little 90 degree connector at the bottom of the assembly. Oddly enough the early cab 11 CMP had small shocks also used by the early 4x4 Dodge US army trucks and parts are available from Vintage Power Wagon in Fairfield Indiana.

In you case the later model can probably be sourced from them or .... if you still have military connections..... the linkages from M135 Deuce and a half.
The trick is to match the orientation of the two bolts.... some are on the same side facing the same way some are top one facing one way the bottom facing out the other way..... 180 degrees opposed.

You must also need to match the lenght...centre bolt to centre bolt..... that may necessitate cutting the linkage and rewelding to the proper dimension.

Over the holidays I will photograph the various models we have and post on this site.... meanwhile see if you can take measurements for the exact length for c. to c. of bolts.

Now to go back to look at your pedal assembly.

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

The pedal assembly is OK the throttle linkage is bolted to the front of the cab floor..... the arms have to be lifted about 100 degree...... short one will connect ot the gas pedal the longer one will link to the rod/linkage that goes around the front of the engine to the other side .... to the bellcrank then the carby.


On your earlier picture of the shock.... notice the large screw..... that is the one to remove to drain and refill the shock absorber. If you fastened the shock to a large jaw wise you can refill and actually move the arm up and down to properly prime the shock.

Your other rear shock mounting backets are fairly standard.... you will need rods.

Check one more thing .... I beleive there are more than one model.....some of the bolts in the flex ends are either tappered and some are straight shank.... let me know what you have....... of course the hole in the arm of the shock will need to match the bolt shape to fit properly.

Will close with one final observation..... a lot of trucks from that period did not have shocks on the rear axle.... they were an option on the rear axle of Dodge Power Wagons until the mid 1956+ Reason being that there is so much friction between all them springs leaves that it does not really matters. when you consider the speed driven at the time and the known fact that they were not intended for slalom racing. I have been driving my bare C15a frame in the back field..... without any body weight and rebuilt spring packs it rides like a wagon with wooden wheels...... my shocks are not installed yet and I doubt they will make much difference when installed. They might make a difference at highway speed later but I am not there yet.

Hang in there.......

Bob

[Grant Bowker]

To check if the primer coloured throttle linkage is correct, look at how the arm lines up with the hole in the floor where the pedal link comes through. The link through the floor to the pedal is a straight rod so it will only work if the linkage is the right way round, making the rod roughly at right angles to the floor panel. You may need to change the orientation to get the long and short arms on the correct side of the linkage. One way is obviously wrong and the other much better. (Of course, this works best if you have a throttle pedal in place to hold the other end of the rod through the floor.)

With respect to the need for shocks - the C60-X didn't have rear shocks. I don't know if the combination of loaded weight and friction made them un-necessary or whether the articulation of the axles was more than the period shocks were able to handle (I suspect the latter).

[John Mackie]

Jason
Restoring my white M3A1 I needed shock links. I built mine using the rings and shaft from an old telescopic shock. I cut it down to just the rings and shaft, turned up a pin for each end with a matching taper for the shock arm,
left a shoulder then turned 5/8 for about 1 1/2 inch then reduced to 1/2 " and threaded 1/2" UNF.
After cutting the shaft of the old shock to the required length and welding the second ring to the shaft . the link was assembled using 2 tapered shock rubbers and a 1/2 nut and washer at each end.
I hope this sugestion may be of help.

John.

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by jason meade

Also is this the correct location..for the throttle linkage ?

The throttle linkage is in backwards , the long bent flat runs between the other pedals.

[motto]

The shock links shown in the photo's appear to use similar ball ends to other late war trucks such as GMC CCKW and Studebaker US6. I have a good quantity of NOS links for the Stude and have been using the ball ends for Dodge WC among others.

There is no need to cut and shut if the rod and eye ends are ok, just press the ball ends out and press in new or serviceable ones robbed out of the Stude links or what have you. This also holds true if you have a link with the ends facing the wrong way, just press one out and put it in the other way round.

Within the last two weeks I supplied a couple of Stude links to a friend for use on his '48 Ford pick-up.

You will find that the pin on the ball has a taper on it and can be a bit difficult to dismantle from the attach point. I find that after loosening or removing the nut, if you can hold a sledge hammer or heavy steel object against one side of the attach lug and hit the side opposite with a hammer (NOT the pin) after a few whacks they will usually separate.

David

[jason meade]

Bob, The little 90 degree connector that you mentioned is really the problem with the links on the front axle, there is a ton of movement 1/8 side to side movement, where the 90 degree connector goes through the cast bracket on the axle and is bolted with a 5/8 bolt...is there a rubber shim in there or was that metal to metal, if it was metal o metal them the hole has alonganated (sp)itself on both sides.
There is a taper on the pins at least for the rear links, the front I am not sure as of yet.

I may have taken on more than i can handle with this project...lol I was board of building jeeps as that was too easy...lol
I am in need of a ton of little things,with the hardest forme being seat frames and a carb....and now mabey links... ohwll it will all come out in the wash.
Thanks everone for you ideas and help.
Jason

[Grant Bowker]

The 90 degree connector is attached to the axle with a stud that is integral with the 90 degree part. Be careful undoing it to preserve the 90 plus stud. Scrap the nut (either flame or grinder) if it doesn't turn easily. I have seen the 90 connectors both with and without thick washers and thin rubbers. The total thickness is limited by the stud length. If you can't get the 90 to snug down and sit still on the axle at a reasonable torque consider making a stepped washer to bush the hole in the axle casting (or even a small sleeve to fit between the stud and the axle to hold things still).
The studs on your links will be tapered.

Carb, if you are working a 216 the Carter W-1 is available rebuilt aftermarket or eBay to rebuild. If you have a later 235 or 261, they probably came from the factory with a Rochester B that was supplied in several base sizes and venturi diameters also different air cleaner attachments. Try to get the right style rather than adapting. Another option is a brand new Zenith 228, not cheap but 100% new. This is very similar to the carb used on the C60X. http://www.zenithfuelsystems.com/downdraft_228.htm

Seats and mountings, just keep your eyes open. If you find a seat that is solid but without the springs in the back, grab it. You can buy extension springs of correct wire diameter and OD as 30" lengths that you can cut and bend your own ends onto to replace the seatback springs.

Bob maintains that it is impossible to restore a truck without having another to study and rob parts from. It is often cheaper to buy a complete truck that has quite a few parts that you need than to try to find and buy the parts separately. You will also then have either a source for future parts needs or trading material to get things you need from others.

[jason meade]

Grant thanks for the information, I would love to find another truck in the area but alas there is not much as i am a bit late in picking up this stuff as its been well picked in the area and with the price or steel over the years well you get the picture, but there are a few around.
I have found a HUP in the area for 1000.00 but alot of differences also for the small about of items needed.

Jason

[motto]

I'm pretty sure you will find that the offset 90 degree connector is not peculiar to this vehicle either. I know for sure that I've seen them used elsewhere most likely one of the models of CCKW. I've probably got some in amongst my stuff.

David

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Jason

Don't get discouraged ...... all the little bits are out there.... you just need to connect the dots......

Going back to your earlier email.... yes your bolt holes may have been worn out to a larger size..... you can fabricate bushings or weld extra metal and drill.

Being creative and imaginative is a requirement in this insane world of CMP restoration.

I will be taking some pictures of the various linkages we have here at the barn over the Xmas Holidays and post on MLU.

Seat frames do come up occasionally..... keep your eyes wide open for them.
....and I can't believe that all CMP related thingies have been picked clean in your area....... you have to sneak around, ask, network..... they are there and in most cases wasting away in someone's back field. Recent posting by Richard in the Huntsville area has turned up some real good CMP finds. I believe Quebec is still full of them in back road and in lumber areas....all waiting to be found. Out in Western Canada.... there are still treasure trove of parts.... yes they are miles apart as it is a big country but they do exist waiting to be picked up.

Take your time...don't give up...... keep plugging at it and stay on the forum.

Will get back to you.

Bob

[Harry Moon]

Definitely the gas pedal bracket goes the other way around. the long curved arm attaches to the gas pedal. the other end attaches to the bracket on the motor that transfers the linkage to the other side of the motor.. Look it up in the manual as there is a good layout of the setup.

[peter simundson]

.....lots or these links in Levy's Yard years ago.m I took 6 of each at a buck each and sold them or gave them away over the years.

Brian Asbury had an eye for the good items and might have salted some away.

Send him an e mail. He probably has them.

Seems to me the deuce links arevery similar. Of course I might be dreaming.

Peter S

[jason meade]

Hey Peter, your right the ones on the front of a m135 are very close, could be used to cut and build new ones...was at work eyeballing a set...lol
I am going to be ordering some stuff from Brian just after Christmas so i will ask the question then.
Jason