Siezed track

Ron Pier · #1 08-05-09, 17:01

The recent talk of seized up track has inspired me to try and free up the spare length of track that I have had for about 15 years. It was seized solid when I got it, and has not been in the best environment since. using an oxy/Acetylene cutting torch to heat each link. I managed to get five freed up in about 1 1/2 hours ( a fitter bloke without a gammy right arm could have done it in an hour) I'm not sure if the heat will have any detrimental effect to the links? But in my case, I'm only going to squirt it with freeing oil, paint it and hang it on the carrier somewhere for effect. It was a hot and sweaty job, but five a day over the weekend will get it done. I don't envy Richard with two full tracks to free up!
Ron

RichardT10829 · #2 08-05-09, 22:24

i have heard it can change the tensile strength if too much heat is applied. i was going to put a section into a parts washer that firse ultrasonic sound waves into the item but never got any replies for bits of track....will wait a few weeks and do it on my own

bathing in a bucket of diesel or AT fluid might work (or be less labour intensive)

Ledsel · #3 08-05-09, 22:59

Take it to your local rad shop they will dip it for a very small fee comes out like new.

RichardT10829 · #4 09-05-09, 00:52

like a caustic stripper you mean ?

Ledsel · #5 09-05-09, 03:32

No, they will dip it in thier acid tank for a few minutes. I've done it many times with gas tanks and I once did it with a sized wood planer cutter head.

alleramilitaria · #6 09-05-09, 05:40

my .02
you are working too hard.
best way i have found (short of dipping) is just to use LOTS of penetrating oil and let it set for 2-3 days. then come back and smack it with a hammer, do that for a few days and let the oil do the work.

Ron Pier · #7 10-05-09, 08:42

Here is the latest pic of my length of siezed track. I have two broken link pins, but I have got a few new ones. I'll clean and paint everything before reasembly. Most of the split pin ends of the pins are damaged, so I'll reasemble with new washers and a couple of tacks with the mig. Ron

Ron Pier · #8 10-05-09, 22:27

I know I'm harping on!! But it realy took it out of me to strip and paint this silly little 3 foot length of track. Ron

Nigel Watson · #9 10-05-09, 23:25

Hi Ron
The way I freed my track was soaking it in a large bath of diesel, left it in there for a month I think, then hammered it out. What didn't move, which wasn't too many links came out with a fast (I wish) run on tarmac roads with carrier.
Nigel

Ron Pier · #10 11-05-09, 10:42

Firstly Nigel I haven't got a tank big enough to put the track in. Second, I'm far to impatient to wait a month! I was determined it wasn't going to beat me once I'd started.

Ron

RichardT10829 · #11 11-05-09, 11:14

Automatic transmition fluid eats rust could try a few links in a wash basin of that ?

REL · #12 12-05-09, 05:13

Electrolysis works very well though slowly, and will not of course damage the heat treating/tempering of the steel.

Takes only water, a power supply such as a battery charger, and washing soda. The part must be free of all oil and grease, and that can be tricky if very rusty parts have been soaked in oil as it penetrates the scale and probably can't be got out even by a hot caustic bath. A tablespoon of soda to a gallon of water (it's not necessary to be precise), some rebar or expanded metal and that's it. Connect the item to be cleaned to the negative lead and the expanded metal or rebar to the positive lead and let it "cook". The expanded metal or rebar must be cleaned off every day with a brush and water to keep the process working "full speed".

Some machinery collectors in Australia have had good success using a molasses based mixture, which sets up some kind of reaction that removes rust.

http://www.antiqueautoranch.com/mont...rian/rust.html