latest photo

[Ken Hughes]

here is the latest photo of my F30

[NORTH-SHORE(CANADA)]

HI,
Nice

[2nd AIF]

Very nice indeed

[Ken Hughes]

some more i hope

[T Creighton]

Great work Ken, looks very good. Not bad for a panel beater.
Have you changed the cab roof? I think I remember it being a Korean war cab.
Tell us about the new electrics.
Cheers,
Terry

[Ken Hughes]

Thanks for your kind remarks guys,Yes Terry it did have a Korean war cab but i wanted a 42 style cab,the back panels were replaced and some repairs done to the roof.
I would do it differently now though as the info 10 yrs ago was limited owing to not having a computer,and i have learned a lot since then working on other peoples 13 cabs.
the wiring system is still 6v with all the correct sizing of wire in place with modern fuses and all put into modern plastic ribbed sleaving ,i know this is not original but i am looking for durability for the system ,why 6v you may ask, well after having starting problems some time ago Alex Blair suggested i put an earth from the battery earthing point to the bell housing/starter area and the result was that it started like it was on 12v,and 12v generators for the v8 are thin on the ground here, but 6v are still obtainable at swat meets etc

[T Creighton]

Cool tyres too Ken. Do you have a source for any more?

[Ken Hughes]

They are run flat tires Terry,they may give a hard ride though.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Looks great Ken, well done!

Originally Posted by T Creighton

Have you changed the cab roof? I think I remember it being a Korean war cab.

So what exactly is a "Korean war cab"? Never heard about that one.

Thanks,
Hanno

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Hanno Spoelstra

So what exactly is a "Korean war cab"? Never heard about that one.

It's more rounded at the back corner and roofline, kind of reminiscent of the M37 Dodge cab shape. Next you'll be asking for a picture.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Ken Hughes

Thanks for your kind remarks guys,Yes Terry it did have a Korean war cab but i wanted a 42 style cab,the back panels were replaced and some repairs done to the roof.
I would do it differently now though as the info 10 yrs ago was limited owing to not having a computer,and i have learned a lot since then working on other peoples 13 cabs.
the wiring system is still 6v with all the correct sizing of wire in place with modern fuses and all put into modern plastic ribbed sleaving ,i know this is not original but i am looking for durability for the system ,why 6v you may ask, well after having starting problems some time ago Alex Blair suggested i put an earth from the battery earthing point to the bell housing/starter area and the result was that it started like it was on 12v,and 12v generators for the v8 are thin on the ground here, but 6v are still obtainable at swat meets etc

Hi Ken..
The truck looks great and I'm glad my little tip helped with your starting problem..On six volt systems ,grounding is 90% of starting and rough running ,missing and all sorts of dim lighting and funny crap that goes on in electrical systems..and radio systems..
Just an example that someone figured out long ago is wireless radio military vehicle grounding..there are ground straps from every nut and bolt practically to every other nut and bolt and body part..
Some times when we do restorations we forget the importance of these grounds and leave them off or forget to replace them..even if we are not doing a lot of radio transmission and receiving..
But our electrical systems in the truck itself depends on it..Can't have too many ground straps on a 6 Volt system..Another thing I used to do was use welder's cable for heavy duty cables like starter and battery cables..they carry the amperage and voltage much better as they are braided with very flexible copper wire..
Makes all the difference in the electrical system..
Braided ground strap is great to use too.
Glad things worked out well for you..
My mom always thought I was wasting my time and that I should have been studying when I was working on my old flat head Fords..
I guess it was an education of the fun kind..
Always stood me in good stead..

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

The point of needing good "grounds" "earths" is very important with any voltage, I have 3 CMPs all with 6 volt system and normally they all start well with the 6 volt systems. BUT as Alex says you can not under state the need for good grounds between the engine and the frame is very important. Some of my Chevy CMPs had a woven ground strap between the engine and frame, one had no evidence of one. Without the ground strap you are dependent on a connection through the drive train not good, front engine mount rubber, rear engine mounts steel to steel but not necessarily good particularly if all the parts are well painted. If your truck doesn't have a good earth/ground strap take Alex's tip add a length of welding cable from the bell housing to the frame. I ran mine from the housing over to the same bolt that connects the battery ground strap to the frame.

Starting problems from poor grounding increase if the engine is bigger or has increased compression. For example my C60S has a 261 cubic inch engine and starts just fine 95 times out of 100 with the six volt battery. The other 5 times were a problem, solution as the truck is equipped with a 12 volt battery to power radio equipment which hidden behind the 6 volt. I installed a marine battery switch which allows me to connect just the starter to the 12 volt, result instant start with out changing any of the other wiring on the truck.

[Ken Hughes]

A friend who done this wiring (has a C8AX) has put numerous earths in place that i have seen,on the dash board and such.

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Tony Smith

It's more rounded at the back corner and roofline, kind of reminiscent of the M37 Dodge cab shape. Next you'll be asking for a picture.

No one else has offered Hanno so here is one. I have only ever seen pictures of Fords changed in that way.
Regards,
Terry

[Grant Bowker]

The photo looks to my eyes as if the design was done to eliminate compound curves that would have required a large stamping press. A small run of replacement roofs wouldn't justify making a set of stamping dies. Are there other photos or can someone who's seen the roofs confirm or deny? My memory is that only one of the Australian makers originally made their own cabs with the other using imported parts, could this explain why the Korean War roofs are only reported on Fords?

[Ken Hughes]

Hi Grant,as far as i am aware the "Korean cab"is a NZ Army feature,was done on trucks earmarked for overseas service,as most of the trucks were parked in the open air since 1942,
the rear panel had rusted out.
The Korean cab back panel replaced the two original back panels by being in one piece to the roof seam.
the join at the roof seam had an angle iron frame from the top of the windscreen frame,running right round the cab,so all original angle iron frame was done away with.
The roof panel was made in one piece with the corners checked out and folded/rolled to form the roof skin,corners being welded and all being spot welded in place.
I do have some photos of the original cab somewhere that i can photo again and post on here.
Maybe we should start a new thread for Korean cabs?

[Ken Hughes]

sorry about the flash in some of the photos,i hope will load ok as im out of broadband!

[Howard]

I seem to recall one of these listed (& photographed) at a local clearing sale. I didn't get to the sale, but should have the photo somewhere????????????