Exhaust system question

[Jordan Baker]

H everyone.

Ive started doing some preliminary work on the exaust system for my carrier. Ive found it too loud without any exaust sytem.

My questions are what are the dimensions of the mufflers and the diameter of the pipeing. What I do have is so crushed its amazing that any exhaust gases came out.

[chris vickery]

Jordan, talk to Fitton, I gave him a couple NOS mufflers a few years back.
Stew Loy may also know.

[alleramilitaria]

what do you mean its too loud? just use ear plugs, and ear muffs, and a AFV helmet with radio speakers, then you wont even know its running.

[Stewart Loy]

... and the tube looks to be 1.5" OD.

If I remember correctly the mufflers that I used were from a mid '80s K-car. I even have 2 left over if you need/want them ( I have a special deal just for you ).

Sorry to take so long to reply - I was busy getting out of the motorcycle game.


Stewart

[Jordan Baker]

Dave I didn't hear what you said!

Stewart I 'll take your offer on those exhaust.

Jordan

[alleramilitaria]

what ya say?????? speak up!!!!!!
LOL
dave

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks everyone for the help.

Ive secrued a set of mufflers for the carrier.

Jordan

[Bob Moseley (RIP)]

Personally, fitting mufflers to Carriers is like wearing a condom. Can't beat an un-suppressed V8.

Vrooommm Vrooommm Bob

[Bryan]

Your not kidding Bob

My flatty sounds excellent with no silencers infact I havnt got any downpipes on her as yet. what a noise!!!

I am looking into manufacturing a set for my carrier has anyone got and drawings or dimentions that I could use to manufacture a pair of silencers. As I dont want to restrict the engine and lose the V8 note!!

Bryan

[charlie fitton]

If I knew where you lived, I could lend you samples.....

[Hanno Spoelstra]

John Bizal is a forum member:

You can also see the custom made exhaust now installed. I researched and cross referenced mufflers that were very close to the originals, then modified them to fit the actual application.

Source: http://www.midwestmil.com/restoreBrenp2.html

HTH,
Hanno

[Snowtractor]

...car mufflers indeed. There are such a variety of agriculture mufflers as to stagger the imagination. I walked in to a Aklands a few years back and got 2 mufflers EXACT length and diameter, very heavy gauge and for dirt cheap. I saw some in Princess auto ,in april, that look to be right for 20 bucks a piece.
Don't limit your thinking to "automotive", heavier industry has been repairing short run specialty equipment for years. This means they are more set up to build you what you want and quite often cheaper than you think. Because they have the equipment the can do the job faster, often, to significant savings even though shop hourly rates may be higher. As example there are the mufflers and brake shoe relining and Nigel getting his carrier road wheel rerubbered at a forklift tire relining shop ..for dirt cheap.
Sean

[Jordan Baker]

I have noticed on many carriers that there are two sheets of asbestos attached to the plate behind the mufflers. My carrier doesn't have these. Should I be worried about heat generated by the exhaust especialy since the fuel tanks are right on the other side of the steel plate.

Any suggestions as to what I could use?

[Stewart Loy]

Jordan,

The asbestos covers seem to have been specifically designed to hold dirt and moisture close enough to the hull for long periods of time to induce rusting.

I did not put mine back - you could even come by and dig them out of the shed if you need a pattern. Even after a good long day of parading the fuel must get to the rotten old fuel pump to get hot enough to boil - no asbestos cover would have helped.

Also, with all of the muffler hardware and rear plate covering it up - the only person who would know it was not installed - you just drove over them!



Stewart

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks Stewart

I had figured as much seeing how many long parades your carrier has been in. I just didn't want ot be in a parade some day and have an incident.

Jordan I think i'm going to follow you an assembly of the muffler pipes , can you let me know what size your going to be using and what degree those elbows are. I'm going for a flex hose's from the engine down to the first elbow's. so let me in on what you are buying , Thanks mate


BIG MIKE

[greg anderson (RIP)]

My mufflers were for a Pontiac Firefly from Canadian Tire and work OK -when I had the downpipes from the engine out I made a jig so that I could make new ones if necessary --

[Jordan Baker]

Mike dont use the flex pipes. Personaly I find them to be crap as they don't last very long.

As was mentioned earlier the pipes should be 1.5"

I had to go at mine a bit backwards as I couldn't get the headers off my engine. The bolt heads were slightly rusted away and I didn't want to break the thin casting.

I removed the cast elbow from the hull floor and went at it that way. I purchased a 90 degree elbow in 1.5" dia from CDN tire. I cut off the end that had been expanded and then hammered the narrower end of it into the top of the cast elbow. That way the pipe was long enough to reach from the headers to the hull floor. What was left of the original rusted out pipe in teh header was hammered out to allow the cut end of the pipe to be placed into it. After many times in and out to the work bench I finally got the correct lenght and got it installed. It was a very tight fit. I also the hammered back the orginal rusted out pipe to make a tighter fit around the new pipe and for extra security I placed a clamp on it.

The first picture shows the system after removing the crappy flex stuff.

[Jordan Baker]

This picture shows the new exhaust pipe. See my above post for a confusing exlanation of how I did it.

I did notice some very slight exhaust stain leaks from the joint at the clamp. Im not really worried at all since there is soo much air circulating that there will never be any hight concentrations of fumes.

OK Jordan i'm using the 2 old pieces of pipe that still out of my engine(on both sides) they go straight down thru the hull about 5 inches, i should cut the pipe to add a 90 degree elbow to the straight pipe to the next set of 90 degree elbows to the muffler? are all the bends and or elbows 90 degrees?, also the straight pipe rail under the hull are in good shape, I bought 4 pipe holders brackets from Brian A. to keep the pipe from falling out., The only thing i'm missing is the 2 circle steel plates that the muffler pipes go into that are attached on the bottom of the hull, I wonder if anyone on this forum has any spares of these circle steel plates? thanks Jordan , i won't use the flex pipe, I will get pics soon, to help in my description. Cheers


BIG MIKE

[Jordan Baker]

Mike

I cant say much about the exhaust system past the cast elbow (part # CTL 2911/ CTL2912) Are these what you meen by steel plates. CHeck out pg 118 in the illustrated parts cat to see the system at to how it should look.

What I have described in my other postings is only for parts CTL109 SA/ CTL110 SA. i had to do all that work simply because I couldn't get the what was left of CTL109SA and CTL110SA off without fear of breaking somthing.

Jordan i'm puzzled , on my carrier and yours we have the same engine , can you measure for me the distance from the front engine mount to the radiator mount, seems I think my Rad was pushed back , because when you open the rad cap panel on the top deck plate you look straight down , the rad is set back i believe 3 inches, but remember i think my UC was for a mk2 motor, is thier any differances between the rad, in a mk1 to a mk 2 besides ware the hoses go. my motor is not the origanel one, its a 85 HP V8 . Cheers
BIG MIKE

you got it mate i'm not very good with part numbers, but thats what i need are the 2 parts,CTL2911 and CTL2912 yes the 4 straight pipe bracket holders are CTL8894's, it would be nice to know the elbow degree from the straight pipe to the mufflers, and the degree from the top of the mufflers too.


BIG MIKE

[Jordan Baker]

I woudl say hold off on figuring out the degrees and such until you have the rear deck on the carrier. That way you know where the holes have to be and you don't end up with the nice looking pipes being 1/2" to far to the left or right. Thats at least what Im going to do.

Boy am I a novice whem it comes to mufflers , I bought 2 exact mufflers from John Bizel at midwest , I mean they fit like a glove and the look good too. as far as piping i don't have a clue. i'm going to do what Jordan did, i'm useing what was left of the pipes coming out of the motor witch is about 6 inches of piping coming out of both sides of the motor going down, from that point to running to the mufflers i'm lost and from the top of the mufflers to the end i'm lost , maybe i have a mind block right now. I'll wait to see how jordan does his or any pics from you others would be nice , in detail. Cheers


BIG MIKE still wandering around

[JBizal]

I used 1.5 inch pipe and welded corners to mate to the engine. If anyone needs down pipes, I can make them. We have a tubing bender, and my down pipes are original. You guys know how to get a hold of me off line.
John

i'll be a knocking John he he he


Big Mike

[Lynn Eades]

Back to your asbestos heat shields. What you could do is cut out a panel steel plate the same shape and just space it out where it bolts on. This would leave an air gap, and as such would be an effective heat barrier without the asbestos.

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks Lynn

Thats not a bad idea and I will look into it.

[c. ladouceur (RIP)]

I'm looking for about 20 right hand mufflers,(# CTL 231 SA),to match -up with 20 left hand mufflers,(#CTL 232 SA),that I already have.
cliff.