WTB/K wire-pull armored veh CO2 ext. system

[daninnm]

I am driving my M18 Hellcat to aprades and at reenactments and the CO2 extinguiosher sysem is not present - very dangerous because it would be hard standing over a raging gasoline fire in the engine comparment trying to discharge a CO2 extinguisher on fire going on down there. I prefer not to burn up or have my Hellcat burn up. Though I haven't had fires; I know of one owner than had two - fortunately, their rear engine compartment door was open at the time.
I HAVE THE TWO LARGE CO2 BOTTLES
I NEED:
the two wire-connected valves that screw on top of the bottles
the "tee" connector you can see in the attached picture
any of the other plumbing around the bottles valves.

I have the discharge cones in the vehcile and all other plumbing including the wire tee handles you pull to discharge each bottle inside or outside the Hellcat.

This system was used on many armored vehicles. The picture attaches is the exact system in a G122 Staghound . It was used in M18s, Shermans, Pershings (in fact the stock number is a Pershing number) and others. HELP........will pay nicely for the aprts to be safe!
Dan in NM
505-269-2056

[oztankboy]

I know what you mean...

I currently have the CO2 bottle out of my M3 Stuart Hybrid away being tested and hopfuly filled up. I'd hate to try and get out of it in a hurry if it decided to brew up

Phil...

[daninnm]

I am worried about fire big time in the M-18. I use aviation gasoline and the tanks are either side of the motor! Spills or a broken hose can dump lots of flammables into the engine compartment and the high cylinder and exhaust temps in air cooled engines is right there to start a fire. They also backfire through the updraft carb which can cause a fire - this is what caused the two fires in the engine compartment up in Michigan.
You can fill the bottle without getting them tested - in the manual there are exact instructions on how much CO2 the bottle hold. If you have an accurate scale you can weight the bottle, put in the correct poundage of dry ice and then screw on the valve and install the tank in the rack and cliop down the wires. The bottles are good for about 3500psi and the dry ice will only produce a pressure of about 800-900 psi.
Probably is a good idea to get hte bottles checked though - I hate to have some jake leg pitch the WWII bottles out - I was able to buy two newer CO2 bottle of the correct dimensions to fit in the racks under the Hellcat floor.
Let me know if you find someone with a static display that is interested in parting with something that doesn't even show in the static display........the bottle, I don't need - I need the valves and plumbing right around the valves.
Incidentally, same system is in the Sherman - the bottle numbers in the G163 ORD9 are G104 numbers (Sherman)
DaniNM

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Originally posted by DaninNM
I........the bottle, I don't need - I need the valves and plumbing right around the valves.

Your local fire department might be able to advise you on who to call to get that system set up properly and professionally.

[Gunner]

Hi Guys:

Through my other hobby as a scuba instructor I am a certified high pressure cylinder inspector. I'd like to offer some safety tips as you are treading into Department of Transport (DOT USA) and Canadian Transport Commission (CTC) international regulations and standards.

1. get your cylinders professionally cleaned, inspected and hydrostatically tested (it is the law to have them hydro'd every five years). The cost is minimal (we pay about $50 (Cdn) for a 80 cubic foot scuba tank that holds 3000 psi). The tests and inspections include a visual inspection of the interior and exterior of the cylinder, an examination of the neck and threads using ultrasonic equipment and hydrostatically overpressurising the tank to see if the metal has retained its elasticity over the years; and

2. get them filled by a certified 'gas' company, again cheap and safe.

Its worth remembering that the cylinders are 3000 psi 'bombs' that when suffering a neck or thread failure act like a rocket motor and when suffering a hull failure look like an artillery shell that has gone off... I've seen both!

Mike

[mike mckinley]

i couldn't agree more with gunner. i am certified as an inspector with our fire dept. we deal with s.c.b.a. bottles that run at 2216 p.s.i. these can be constructed from fibreglass, steel, or aluminum. we also keep a few "older" bottles for inflating air lift bags, or running pneumatic tools. as gunner said, they get inspected every five years, with the exception of fibre, which is every three. in addition to this, we take the bottles apart every year, and do a visual inspection for corrosion, cracks(especially the neck and where it attaches to the bottle), as well as all seals, and o rings. the important thing to remember is to get them tested by a professional, and except nothing less. the company who administered my test gave me a cylinder to do a visual on. i saw nothing wrong, and visually things looked fine. their testing equipment showed a hairline crack on the threads that if compressed, would likely have failed, causing injury to any bystanders......the crack was almost impossible to detect with the human eye. food for thought, stay safe!!

mike