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#1
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Boiled linseed oil is the one you're looking for. Raw linseed oil stays sticky for a long time. Most of those gun stock finishing oils you see are basically just boiled linseed oil. If you ever refinish any type of gun stock it's the only way to go.
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1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2 |
#2
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mold spores are everywhere,in the air that we breathe every day,you cant get away from it.That is why when things get wet,like books,go moldy.
In libraries,the rear books are kept in a controled enviroment to stop this happening. they do need moisture to stop the books drying out and going brittle though.
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kenney |
#3
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Linseed certainly leaves a nice finish if regularly rubbed but I still have bad experiences of the black spot mould. It does start to yellow with age also = Jiff I bet your old cricket bat has nice creamy yellow colour. If you were wanting something particularly good on wood what about a more resistant and possibly even nicer finish of Marine Teak Oil. Just because it is called Teak Oil doesn't mean it can't be used on all wood.
People with million dollar boats are able to choose the best for their oiled woodwork and furniture and certainly don't use linseed. By using very fine steel wool with the wood grain and plenty of oil the most beautiful natural finish can be achieved. Just by doing a few extra coats you can get everything from the "dry" grainy finish of a brand new weapon to a full smooth polish of a much pampered older one. Teak oil is available at every paint, furniture and hardware store. Just a suggestion. It would not worry anyone much these days but I can remember when I was a kid in the school cadets on the range. All the SMLE rifles had been cleaned and the woodwork oiled to within an inch of its life with the weekly full maintenance (all with standard military gun oil, which I suspect was probably just sewing machine oil with a fancy number???). Anyhow the upshot was after about a hundred rounds in half an hour - the kids shared rifles - the oil was running down your hand and arm as the barrel became very hot and the oil flowed out of the grain of the forestock. Too much of a good thing! Lang |
#4
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Linseed oil. Teak oil. Sandpaper. Bla...bla. Just clean and oil the GD thing !!
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#5
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That is what I said in the first post in this thread.. Spray the old girl down with G-96 ,inside and out..rub her down good and bob's yer uncle..Works on the old lady too..same process.. End of problem.. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Alex Blair :remember :support :drunk: |
#6
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Now there's a guy with good-ole common sense
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#7
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Seems to take a hell of a lot more time and work on the old lady and at the end you get a lot less bang for your buck ![]() ![]()
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Have a good one ![]() Andrew Custodian of the "Rare and Rusty" ![]() |
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