Rifle Mildew

[Phil Waterman]

Here is a problem for you ordinance types in our group Mildew on rifle stocks. In the picture below are two No 4 M I rifles stored in the same rifle cabinet side by side for years. Then this winter the right suddenly developed what I take to be mildew on the stock.

Now I'm sure this was from how the rifles were stored/coated at some point in the past. Now my question what is the best stuff to clean it and prevent it from reoccurring.

Whats kind of interesting despite actual banging around these rifles have had (dings in the wood etc) each rifle has matching numbers, receiver, bolt, band and magazine. The bores on both are clean and not obviously worn.

Cheers Phil

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Here is a problem for you ordinance types in our group Mildew on rifle stocks. In the picture below are two No 4 M I rifles stored in the same rifle cabinet side by side for years. Then this winter the right suddenly developed what I take to be mildew on the stock.

Now I'm sure this was from how the rifles were stored/coated at some point in the past. Now my question what is the best stuff to clean it and prevent it from reoccurring.

Whats kind of interesting despite actual banging around these rifles have had (dings in the wood etc) each rifle has matching numbers, receiver, bolt, band and magazine. The bores on both are clean and not obviously worn.

Cheers Phil

Phil..There is only one product to use on all your weapons..wood stocks included..
G-96..
Even at -40 F or C...(The same reading in both scales at -40)..or freakin' cold..there will be no seizing or fouling and your mechanisms will be working easily and bolts slide fine..been using it for as long as it has been in existence and have never found another product like it..at one time could have armed a squad of troopers to the teeth with every thing from 9MM side arms to a 60MM shoulder fired rocket launcher..to cap and ball 1861 Tower muskets..
And they all got the G-96 treatment and were like new condition and remained like that until I reduced my collection size,,..thanks to our pinko Gummint policy's..to zero..still have the gun oil..but the guns are gone..
Best product on the market today ..use it and your problems will disappear ..

http://www.g96.com/

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Phil, what I always did whenever I bought an old rifle was to dismount the stock(s), [in your case then sand off the mold/mildew], then strip off the old varnish/lacquer/whatever and sand, sand, sand. To strip use a good quality wood stripper, and what works well is a straight razor blade - just make sure you get it all off. After you're satisfied with the final finish (using successively lighter grades of sandpaper), it's time to pour on the linseed oil and rub it in by hand. You'll want to do a number of applications, rubbing it until you can feel the heat - this way the oil will soak well into the wood. You'll be amazed at the final finish! Do enough of it and it will keep out the nasties as well.

I've done quite a number of old rifles this way and it works... gives the old girls some dignity!

BTW, I'd also invest in a dessicant for your gun cabinet - you obviously have moisture in there.

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Geoff Winnington-Ball

Phil, what I always did whenever I bought an old rifle was to dismount the stock(s), [in your case then sand off the mold/mildew], then strip off the old varnish/lacquer/whatever and sand, sand, sand. To strip use a good quality wood stripper, and what works well is a straight razor blade - just make sure you get it all off. After you're satisfied with the final finish (using successively lighter grades of sandpaper), it's time to pour on the linseed oil and rub it in by hand. You'll want to do a number of applications, rubbing it until you can feel the heat - this way the oil will soak well into the wood. You'll be amazed at the final finish! Do enough of it and it will keep out the nasties as well.

I've done quite a number of old rifles this way and it works... gives the old girls some dignity!

BTW, I'd also invest in a desiccant for your gun cabinet - you obviously have moisture in there.

Jiffy..I disagree!!
The quickest way to devalue a firearm is to remove the original finish..
The desiccant I agree with..Rubbing G-96 on it will remove the moisture..the mildew and restore the original patina..end of problem..
GADS!!! Sand paper..!!
Those were the gloves they issued officers when they signed up..trying to keep them from abusing and amusing them selves..!!
LOL..Gottcha..!!
See you and Sally at Bobbee's..
Here is some thoughts on refinishing firearms..

removing any patine from the firearm defiantly reduces value.
however a tear down to clean all the old oil and any build up from years of sitting
wont drop value.i too have an old valuable rifle and had it cleaned but did not remove patina
and it retained its value.

i cant stress enough how important it is to leave things alone till you
take it to a professional who knows what he/she is doing and take their
advice.
removing any patine from the firearm defiantly reduces value.
however a tear down to clean all the old oil and any build up from years of sitting
wont drop value.i too have an old valuable rifle and had it cleaned but did not remove patina
and it retained its value.

I cant stress enough how important it is to leave things alone till you
take it to a professional who knows what he/she is doing and take their
advice.
Check this out..

One thing to remember that if these guns are old enough or have any original collector value at all, is not to try to strip them down and refinish them. You might end up with a nice looking gun, but it's value would be way down. You could ruin a valuable collector gun.

[malcolm erik bogaert]

WD-40 has always worked for me....have to agree with the statements about the lefty pinko's...we have a very strong STALINIST goverment here......regards malcolm

[cletrac (RIP)]

The best thing to get rid of mould or mildew is a bleach solution. I use that treatment on my house window ledges every few years. It won't affect the wood or metal finish. After everything's dry rub the gun down with oil.

[Ian Pullen]

Guys, as an armourer for more than 25 years I agree with the g-96, even WD-40 is useable, but I am not 100% sure about that one in extreme cold.

The issue is the woodwork. Personaly I agree with Geoff. Linseed oil, rubbed in by hand is the only way I would do it. And yes, the finish it leaves is amazing.

Only difference though is the method of cleaning the woodwork. I don't think I would sand it, however I would scrape it back with the REVERSE side of a hacksaw blade. It cleans off the grime without the sanding or razor blade effect. The majority of stampings & markings remain. Just don't get over zelous with the pressure when scraping it.

My two cents worth...

[servicepub (RIP)]

Only two ways to deal with this problem;
1. strip them down, smelt the metal and burn the wood, or
2. sell them to me at a major discount off their value.
Whichever you choose you will not have to deal with unsightly mildew issues again.

[Lang]

I think the G96 guys are on the right track. Linseed oil can be a disaster -use the gun oil (of whatever brand you choose on the woodwork). Linseed is organic and particularly in warmer climates and I presume even Canadian collections are in a warm house it will start turning to black spotted staining mould all over the weapon. Anyone putting linseed oil on house outdoor decking or outdoor wood furniture will know it finishes up a black mess in very short time.

The residual moisture in the wood will leave the white furry mould like in photo above but can be cleaned off with damp cloth then reoiled with G96.

My little used gun collection requires the damp cloth fur removal about once a year no matter how much oil is soaked into the wood. Jiff don't sand it back unless you are going to sporterise or hotrod your weapon, I too also suspect it will devalue an original piece.

lang

[Geoff Winnington-Ball (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Lang

I think the G96 guys are on the right track. Linseed oil can be a disaster -use the gun oil (of whatever brand you choose on the woodwork). Linseed is organic and particularly in warmer climates and I presume even Canadian collections are in a warm house it will start turning to black spotted staining mould all over the weapon. Anyone putting linseed oil on house outdoor decking or outdoor wood furniture will know it finishes up a black mess in very short time.

The residual moisture in the wood will leave the white furry mould like in photo above but can be cleaned off with damp cloth then reoiled with G96.

My little used gun collection requires the damp cloth fur removal about once a year no matter how much oil is soaked into the wood. Jiff don't sand it back unless you are going to sporterise or hotrod your weapon, I too also suspect it will devalue an original piece.

lang

Well, all I can say is that I've been using hand-rubbed linseed oil since I bought my first rifle in 1969, and I've never had problems with it. If the stock is clean enough and you spend enough time rubbing multiple coats of oil into the wood, it will keep rifle stocks in the same condition as, for instance, a 19th century cricket bat which I have here.

Ref the sanding bit, we're primarily talking about the old cheapie $25 Lee Enfields you used to be able to buy just about anywhere - well-used but badly maintained, with stocks gouged and dinged and covered with layer upon layer of varnish and sometimes even paint. The combination of stripping and sanding gently worked really well.

Nothing was lost and much gained by refinishing them in the manner I spoke of earlier. Would I do this on an 18th or 19th century musket? Don't be ridiculous. Here we're talking about old, beat-up service rifles which have little intrinsic value of their own and which can be made into magnificent presentation pieces.

[Lynn Eades]

Which type of linseed oil are we talking about? There is Raw, and what ever the other one is. (cooked?) One is good for softening hard leather seals,but it causes the seal track to rust?, if I recall? Can some one wise me up.

[cletrac (RIP)]

Boiled linseed oil is the one you're looking for. Raw linseed oil stays sticky for a long time. Most of those gun stock finishing oils you see are basically just boiled linseed oil. If you ever refinish any type of gun stock it's the only way to go.

[Ken Hughes]

mold spores are everywhere,in the air that we breathe every day,you cant get away from it.That is why when things get wet,like books,go moldy.
In libraries,the rear books are kept in a controled enviroment to stop this happening.
they do need moisture to stop the books drying out and going brittle though.

[Lang]

Linseed certainly leaves a nice finish if regularly rubbed but I still have bad experiences of the black spot mould. It does start to yellow with age also = Jiff I bet your old cricket bat has nice creamy yellow colour. If you were wanting something particularly good on wood what about a more resistant and possibly even nicer finish of Marine Teak Oil. Just because it is called Teak Oil doesn't mean it can't be used on all wood.

People with million dollar boats are able to choose the best for their oiled woodwork and furniture and certainly don't use linseed. By using very fine steel wool with the wood grain and plenty of oil the most beautiful natural finish can be achieved. Just by doing a few extra coats you can get everything from the "dry" grainy finish of a brand new weapon to a full smooth polish of a much pampered older one. Teak oil is available at every paint, furniture and hardware store. Just a suggestion.

It would not worry anyone much these days but I can remember when I was a kid in the school cadets on the range. All the SMLE rifles had been cleaned and the woodwork oiled to within an inch of its life with the weekly full maintenance (all with standard military gun oil, which I suspect was probably just sewing machine oil with a fancy number???). Anyhow the upshot was after about a hundred rounds in half an hour - the kids shared rifles - the oil was running down your hand and arm as the barrel became very hot and the oil flowed out of the grain of the forestock. Too much of a good thing!

Lang

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Linseed oil. Teak oil. Sandpaper. Bla...bla. Just clean and oil the GD thing !!

[Alex Blair (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Bruce Parker

Linseed oil. Teak oil. Sandpaper. Bla...bla. Just clean and oil the GD thing !!

Bruce..
That is what I said in the first post in this thread..
Spray the old girl down with G-96 ,inside and out..rub her down good and bob's yer uncle..Works on the old lady too..same process..
End of problem..

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Now there's a guy with good-ole common sense

Originally Posted by Alex Blair

Bruce..
That is what I said in the first post in this thread..
Spray the old girl down with G-96 ,inside and out..rub her down good and bob's yer uncle..Works on the old lady too..same process..
End of problem..

[aj.lec]

Originally Posted by Alex Blair

Bruce..
That is what I said in the first post in this thread..
Spray the old girl down with G-96 ,inside and out..rub her down good and bob's yer uncle..Works on the old lady too..same process..
End of problem..

Seems to take a hell of a lot more time and work on the old lady and at the end you get a lot less bang for your buck